The plug will depend on the compression ratio.  I run 10-11 on Autolite 3323’s and 3324’s.  Higher than that, I usually switch to a colder plug, like a 3910 or similar.

They make extended length taps so that you don’t have to do that.  I have a nice sharp 6” 1/4NPT tap. 

The type of pipe plug that you will need, is called a "Dry Seal". Edit: The dry seal plugs, had a little different taper and that's why they don't go in as far.

In a critical area, you need to use a pipe plug thread gauge to be sure that the thread is deep enough but, as shallow as possible. The gauge has a flat on it, across 3 threads. When you reach those threads, the first is min, next is nominal and the last is max thread depth.

You may not need to drill all the way threw if, you use a pipe reamer. It tapers the hole the proper length for the thread.

You don't want a "Dry Seal" plug.  You want the plug to go in deeper in this area, not shallower.

Pioneer makes all kinds of different pipe plugs for engine scenarios.  Tall, short, drilled, etc.  The short Pioneer plug is the best choice here, don't have to cut them down, just tap the hole and screw them in.

I'm prepping a mirror 105 block that has all screw in plugs except the one in the distributor hole. I knocked the cup plug out for cleaning and would like to put a screw in plug in that location. The factory drilled the hole,stopping about 1/16 inch from the lifter bore,leaving a ridge with the ID of the gallery bore. If I run a tap in there it will surely mess up that ridge. Should I go ahead and tap it as is,drill the hole all the way through with a 7/16 drill and tap...or leave it as is and stick another plug back in. It's a nice standard block and I don't want to screw it up.
Thanks!

Don't worry about the ridge, just run a 7/16" drill through to the lifter bore, tap it 1/4 NPT, then come back with a lifter bore hone and clean up where the drill came through. 

Most of my "projects" are dyno mules.  I try to put a lot of time and effort into trying new things so that I can help you guys make more power.  I've been getting hot and heavy into camshaft stuff, so I have a little 5.0 SBF that I'm getting ready to do a lot of cam testing with.

I've had project cars in the past: 1990 Fox Mustang LX 5.0 that I used to play with at Ohio Valley, 2002 Mustang GT, Shelby Cobra replica with a 428FE, (even had a '73 Corvette) etc.  For me though, I just enjoy working on the engine stuff a lot more than the car stuff.  I can live vicariously through my customers.

I'm 46 and I'm learning to "find myself" a little better as I get older.  I've learned that one of my personality traits is that when I get involved in something, I focus on it so hard that I get sick of it.   I'm an avid shooter.  Been shooting since I was 9-10 years old, everything from skeet to trap to USPSA pistol matches, target rifles, etc.  Got so involved with a new 6.5 PRC rifle last year that I got sick of shooting.  It wouldn't shoot a 3" group to save its life when I first got it.  Finally ended up with a 1/2 MOA @ 100 yard group with factory ammo and then I got tired of messing with it.  So this year I'm trying to split up my goals/hobbies/projects so that I don't get sick of anything. 

The end of last year, I started taking flying lessons.  Been wanting to do that since I was a kid.  Will have 15 hours by the end of this week, going on a night XC Sunday evening. 

The YouTube stuff is fun.  Right now, the YouTube income is paying for my flight lessons and my wife's Invisalign, so make sure and hit that "Like" button ROFL

Those rods would be an easy pass for me.  They look like a steel version of an aluminum rod design, with serrated mating surfaces and a doweled big end.  A lot of these rod manufacturers have proprietary ways of serrating them.  What happens when they need resized? 

I'd rather have a light set of Molnars...

Quote from: blykins on March 02, 2024, 07:13:20 PM

Quote from: DuckRyder on March 02, 2024, 07:05:57 PM

I've got a new damper (professional products) to go on it when i change the cam.

That would be a significant downgrade.  You just need a pointer change.  I even have adjustable pointers where you could do it quickly.

If i said the ATI is 20 years old would you still feel the same?

Ive gotta get some rocker shims anyhow, i'll get a pointer too.

I found my notes stuffed in a Christ book, looks like i determined true TDC was about the missile on my factory pointer, not very precise but it'll work for now.

Yeah, I still think it would be a downgrade.  Not a Pro Products fan.  If you got a hankering for a new balancer, snag a Powerbond.

I'd adjust your pointer so that you never have to try and remember it.