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Topics - blykins

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241
Vendor Classifieds / 351C Parts For Sale...
« on: August 30, 2017, 12:18:02 PM »
*Factory timing cover, bead blasted and painted - $25
*New factory style oil pan, has been deepened by 1".  Includes new Melling pickup.  $150, free shipping.
*Fresh .010/.010 H351 SVO crankshaft.  SBC rod journals.  $350

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Anyone here have one?

243
Vendor Classifieds / Shop cleaning sale.....
« on: July 10, 2017, 06:36:08 AM »
I've got a couple of blocks that would love to find a new home:

1. C7ME 352 block, currently sitting at a 4.060" finished bore size, honed with torque plates. ARP studs in the mains, has been align honed. Decks have been squared to 10.150" with a BHJ. Has been half filled with Moroso block filler. Has also been drilled for bronze lifter bore bushings with a BHJ Lifter Tru fixture.

The kicker is that this block has an enclosed cam tunnel, left over from a project that I never had time to fully see through to the end. If you do a search on this forum, you will see the work that's been done. The cam tunnel just needs the ID finish honed. One of the reasons I didn't finish it is because I couldn't find anyone locally to do that, as it will take a fancy machine to keep it straight and true.

Another kicker is that you can knock the cam tunnel out of it, knock regular cam bearings in, knock the lifter bushings in, and you will have a rock solid street/strip block with all the machine work completed.

$1000 as it sits. Will welcome any offers.

2. 4.080" 390 block, fully machined. This was destined for a customer build and actually made it on the dyno when we found a small crack that was producing water right above the pan rail during the dyno session. I got another block for the customer and shipped that order, but went ahead and had this block repaired. It has been pressure tested and is ready to go. It has ARP main bolts, been square decked with a BHJ to 10.150". All galley holes tapped. I will sell for $600 ready to go with a quick clean-up cylinder hone and new cam bearings. It will need a new paint job as it's been washed a couple of times since the dyno.

3. 361 steel crank. Snout has been turned down. It has standard BBC rod journal diameters, but uses narrowed rods. Been sitting, needs a polish. $150

4. Excellent set of (8) refurbished aluminum factory stands - $40

5. Weiand Stealth 302 intake, brand spankin new. - $150

6. Eagle cast Ford 302 crank. Brand new, but needs polished. - $100

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Vendor Classifieds / Brand new Holley HP750 carb, 80528-1....
« on: May 17, 2017, 07:24:26 AM »
Never been bolted on.  $550 + shipping.

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Vendor Classifieds / Pair of new SOHC valve covers for sale...SOLD
« on: May 09, 2017, 05:00:43 PM »
SOLD....

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These won't fit the main stud girdle that my customer is using, so I'm gonna have to sell them.  I'd return them to the parts house, but I used the boxes to ship some parts out. 

Anyway, this is a brand new Milodon 31125 pan and an 18380 pickup. 

Will sell them both for $300 plus shipping.  Summit/Jegs price is $344.


247
Vendor Classifieds / Random SBF/FE parts for sale....
« on: March 13, 2017, 11:00:05 AM »
*New Eagle cast Ford 302 crankshaft, 3" stroke, 2.123" rod journal. $150

*Ford 1970 351W heads, complete. $100

*68 Ford 302 4V intake - $50

*1968 Mexican 302 block. Has had a couple inches of Hard Blok poured in it (well below water pump holes) to stabilize the cylinders. Has been align honed with ARP main studs. Will need bored/honed/decked to spec. I will sell as is, or finish it for you. $500 as is.

*Ford 390 block, fully machined. Caveat to this one...

This is the block that was in this thread:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/message/1489083886/Jay%27s+transparent+valve+covers+and+an+internal+water+leak+fiasco....%28LONG%29

It's a 4.080" bore, fresh hone with a BHJ fixture, square decked to 10.150" with BHJ, and align honed with ARP main bolts. There were two cracks found inside the block when it was pressure tested to 30 psi. They have been repaired by Ray Shepherd (Ray's Crack Repair). Block has passed pressure testing and is ready to assemble. Since it has been washed several times since disassembly, it will need to be repainted. It currently has brass freeze plugs.

I'm asking $750 for this block. Will arrange shipping if necessary, or you can pick it up.

248
A few weeks back, I built a 445 for a customer. At the same time, Jay was talking about his clear valve covers on this forum, so I shot him a message and asked if I could borrow them for a dyno session. The timing was right, as he was wanting to do some outside testing on them to see how well they seal up.

I got them in and since it was the day before the dyno session, I went ahead and popped the customer's valve covers off just to see if I would need different length fasteners. Got the left side cover off and just happened to notice that one pushrod wasn't even touching the rocker arm. This particular engine was a hydraulic roller engine, that uses non-adjustable rocker arms. Obviously, once the pushrod length is measured, the rockers are just bolted on and you're done. Turns out, when I had rolled the motor over to stab the distributor, the spring pressure pushed the lifter down and due to a manufacturing defect, the lifter plunger would not come back up under its own power. If I primed the oil pump, it would slowly come up, but it was very easy to push it back down with a finger WHILE priming the pump.

If I had not tried Jay's covers on, it would have went to the dyno and made a bunch of racket....maybe bent a pushrod.

Intake came off, lifter pair came out, new lifter pair went in, intake went back on.

Fast forward a week, dyno time comes back around.

Got the engine on the dyno, got it started, and during the break-in time I usually walk outside and look at the exhaust. I noticed a few wisps of steam coming out of the right side but wasn't overly concerned at this point as sometimes water/condensation can get down into the dyno mufflers and then the hot exhaust steams it back up. Just to be safe, I went into the dyno cell, pulled all of the spark plugs on the right side, and rolled the engine over with the starter. Nothing came shooting out at me, so I felt good. All the plugs had a little color in them and didn't look like they had been getting washed off. Pistons had color as well.

Got some break-in time in, and started putting pulls on the engine. Oil pressure looked great, oil temperature looked great, adjusted timing, put more pulls on. Walked back outside, still getting a wisp out of the right side. By this time, I was getting a little concerned. Pulled the valve covers and saw some milk up top. Now sometimes there are reasons for that, that shouldn't cause worry. I had driven an hour and 15 minutes that morning with the engine in the back of the truck. It was 30 degrees the entire time and it was so cold that holding onto the valve covers would actually make your hands start to throb. I told myself that it was plausible that the engine had been sweating inside and just hadn't got the moisture out of the oil yet. We fired it back up and I let the engine run at 2500 rpm with a 100 lb-ft load on it for about 10 minutes until the water temp was 190° and the oil temp was 210°. Shut it down, pulled valve covers. Still milky. That was a "poop the bed" moment.

At this point, I knew that I was going to have to do some serious investigation but I went ahead and screwed Jay's valve covers down so I could honor my word to him and see if they would seal up across some dyno pulls.

Here's what I saw:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfhEuGwkYb8

With no baffles and a very open breather, it was very apparent that we were getting some steam from inside the engine. The valve covers also showed immediate moisture (and milkshake) as the pulls went on.

I pulled the engine off the dyno and immediately ran it over to a buddy's shop (Ray's Crack Repair) and we pressure tested the entire engine. We blocked off every orifice and by the time we were through, we had introduced 25 lbs of pressure into the coolant system. No sounds out of the spark plug holes, no sounds out of the exhaust ports, and no bubbles around the intake manifold gaskets when I sprayed soapy water around them with the valve covers off.

Took the engine home, drained the oil, and before any oil came out, a coffee mug full of water came out first.  sad.gif

I went ahead and tore the engine down.

Monday evening I dropped the bare engine block, heads, and intake off with Ray so he could pressure test each piece individually. He called me at 8:20 last night to tell me that he found two cracks, one below #8 cylinder on the inside of the block, and one below #4 cylinder on the inside of the block. He had to pressure the block up to 30 lbs to get them to leak, but we figured under running engine temperature, they opened up a lot easier.

Smoking gun.

A few notes that I can make here:

*This is what really stinks about dynoing and this is why I can't sleep well the night before the session. You can do everything right, even pressure test the block BEFORE assembly, and you never know what may happen.

*Jay's valve covers did not leak and are excellent testing tools. I highly recommend them.

*Even with making a water pump out of the oil pump (hurt some bearings), this engine made 460 hp @ 5200 and 520 lb-ft. It was a rather mild engine, 445ci, as-cast BBM heads, a Performer RPM intake, 9.5:1 compression, and a custom hydraulic roller stick, 227/227 @ /.050", 112/106, .570"/.570". Destined for a pickup truck, it used a 5 quart Milodon oil pan, along with a standard volume oil pump.

*With the SV/SP pump, oil pressure climbed throughout the pull, to 5500 rpm, with the oil pressure peaking at 60 psi. This engine used new non-adjustable rocker arms with a set of ARP stand studs and POP end stands. With no restrictors and no drip tins, the oil level didn't even get up to the valve spring locators in the heads, as can be seen (if you look through the moisture, hahaha) from the YouTube video. Each rocker did spray a nice little jet of oil at the inside roof of the valve covers. Main/rod bearing clearances were all at .0022-.0023. Used Valvoline VR1 10W-30.

*The customer will get a different engine block and we will re-assemble. I will post back with the new results.

249
FE Engine Dyno Results / Lykins Motorsports 427MR, 526 hp
« on: January 25, 2017, 03:39:48 PM »
Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:    433     Dyno brand:  Stuska
      Power Adder:               Where dynoed:  Dale Meers Racing Engines
      Peak Horsepower:   526 @ 6000
      Peak Torque:   511 @ 4750

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:  Factory 427 S/O service block, 4.270" bore
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size:  Fomoco C5AE-D
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:  Scat H-beam, 6.490"

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:  Racetec forged flat top, 10.5:1

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:  FM 125M20, FM 8-7170CH20, Durabond cam bearings

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:  Total Seal 1/16, 1/16, 3/16, 4.270", standard tension
 
   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:  Melling HV, Canton pickup, Melling pump drive

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:  Canton T-sump, no windage tray, factory Ford oil filter adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"):  Custom Comp Cams hydraulic    roller, 235/241 @ .050", 110 LSA, 103 ICL, .600/.600

   Lifters brand, type:  Morel

   Timing chain and timing cover:  Cloyes billet, factory Ford cover

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:  Fomoco C5 MR heads, 73cc chamber

   Cylinder head flow in cfm at inches of lift (28" H2O pressure drop): 

      Intake               Exhaust
      .100     75            .100   47
      .200     149          .200   88
      .300     223          .300   121
      .400     273          .400   154
      .500     308          .500   178
      .600     314          .600   199
      .700               .700
      .800               .800

   Flow bench used, location:  SF600, Lawes Mayfield Motorsports

   Intake valve brand, head size, stem size:   SI stainless, 2.250", 11/32"

   Exhaust valve brand, head size, stem size:  SI stainless, 1.750", 11/32"
   
   Valve springs brand, part number, specs:   Comp Cams 930, 150/350

   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:  Comp Cams 741

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio:  Factory non-adjustable  (all new)

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:

   Pushrods brand, type, length:  Trend custom

   Valve covers, brand, type:  Tony Branda chrome pentroof

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:  Fomoco C5 dual point, Pertronix , 40° total, by 2800

   Harmonic balancer brand:  Powerbond PB1111ST

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):  Edelbrock

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:  Ported, factory Sidewinder

   Carburetor(s) brand, type:  Custom Quick Fuel HR-780, zinc finish

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:



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Vendor Classifieds / New Moroso 351W oil pan for sale....SOLD
« on: January 23, 2017, 06:12:07 PM »
Part number 20501.  9 quart capacity.   Has swinging trap doors and baffles.

Nothing functionally wrong with this pan, but it's been sitting on the shelf for around 2 years.  Has a little oxidation in places.   Regularly sells for $320.  I'll sell for $220 with free shipping.




251
Vendor Classifieds / Brand new FE non-adjustable rocker arms....
« on: January 23, 2017, 06:09:35 PM »
New shafts, new rockers, new spacer springs, and new stands. $225, free shipping.

I've been using these on quite a few builds and love them. On my hydraulic roller stuff, I will pair these with some of the POP end stands. With the correct lobe profile, spring pressure, and these lighter rockers, the hydraulic rollers will hit 6300-6400 pretty easily.

These will use a pushrod with a 3/8" ball on one end and a 5/16" ball on the other. I have those available, custom, from Trend, in a 5/16" .080" wall, 5/16" .105" wall, 3/8" .080" wall, and 3/8" .135" wall.

(BBM heads and Mt. Dew not included.)




252
Vendor Classifieds / Pair of new BBM heads for sale....
« on: December 08, 2016, 04:10:58 PM »
Customer backed out on these after they were done because they were a couple color shades darker than the normal heads.  These have 2.250/1.750 SI stainless valves, guides are sized, and valve job is already done.  Ready to assemble.

Will sell for $1750.


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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Happy Thanksgiving fellow FE'ers......
« on: November 24, 2016, 07:11:34 AM »
Enjoy your weekends with your families.

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Vendor Classifieds / FS: (2) Davinci 1100cfm Dominator carbs
« on: August 07, 2016, 03:17:00 PM »


Came off of a 358 inch tunnel ram engine.  Excellent shape.  $1200 or reasonable, fair offer.  Will ship for free.

Contact me at:  brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

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Vendor Classifieds / Bumpsticks for sale..
« on: February 20, 2016, 04:00:52 PM »
Got 4 sticks here that told me they would like to have a nice home.

All these are brand new in the box....

1. Comp Cams FE solid roller, 270/280 @ .050", billet steel core, 108 LSA, .750/.759 lift, 303/313 advertised. $200 takes it home.

2. Comp Cams FE solid flat tappet, 267/275 @ .050", nitrided core, 108 LSA, .714/.740 lift, 291/301 advertised. $150.

3. Comp Cams SBF solid roller, billet core, 236/236 @ .050", 112 LSA, .602/.602 lift, 273/273 advertised. $200.

4.  Bullet SBF solid flat tappet, nitrided.  247/250 @ .050", 105 LSA, .544"/.544".  $150.  This one has been in a block and degreed.  Never been ran.

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