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Messages - blykins

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Speedmaster latest theft of property video
« on: April 18, 2024, 07:23:38 AM »
Wow, good on them!  A step in the right direction. 

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: max spring pressure with aluminum heads
« on: April 06, 2024, 06:53:26 PM »
I’ve pulled the studs out at 600 lbs of spring load.  When I do aluminum head solid rollers now, I use a different insert or a T&D race rocker.

3
Note - Hot vs cold lash on this iron/iron 351C is the same.

That's the way it is on FE's too.  I've never seen lash change between cold/hot on an iron/iron combo.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 31, 2024, 01:07:01 PM »
Hey if Ford ran them with a half point of compression difference from front to back, we can too……ROFL

Ford ran rope seals and oil bath air cleaners.  I guess that’s “real” too and what we should all aim for.  I mean they did it that way in the 60’s, why should technology improve on anything?

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 31, 2024, 11:51:55 AM »
As far as the quench discussion, glad to see no attempt to make it too tight.  I think for most .040-.050 is plenty for the squish benefit, and I regularly run them proud with a 8554 and some even taller if we are trying to keep intake dimensions on the rare stuff.  Even comparing .045 or so to .036 I'd expect no gain and only added risk.

In terms of the machining, geez Howie, Brent was right, said Ford was all over the place, and then you come back with Ford couldn't hold a spec with their tech at the time, that is EXACTLY the point.   Who cares what the spec is if the machine can't hold it anyway?  Brent didn't say that the machinists were evil or FOMOCO was playing a trick on us.  I'll add that valve centerline, bore centers, cam bore dimensions are all over the place too once you start measuring.

Additionally, no doubt things flex with heat cycles, I am not sure what you mean by massive flexing, I don't agree with that, an FE is pretty forgiving on head gaskets even fewer head bolts than modern engines.  Although anything can move, they don't change .026 from end to end and grow .010 over deck height.  That's a crank centerline or deck machining issue that causes that much variance, and the numbers can tell you which it was.

Square deck a block or two, you'll see things, square deck 20, you can really see the trends.

Howie can't see logic for rage.  It's ok, I got him dead to rights with a simple observation that apparently all of us have seen, except for him.  My favorite part is that he calls bull on my saying that they're out .020", but he agrees that it's the high end of spec and then gets mad at me again.  Poor Howie. 

Oh, and his heating/cooling cycles argument isn't valid either.  I've had some NOS blocks come through that were still in the crate and were still way off. 




6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 31, 2024, 04:51:18 AM »
Somebody from Nova Scotia owes me an apology for their belligerence.

A big news headline:  Ford's machine work from the 60's was nothing to write home about.  I'm sure they had nice drawings....they just couldn't follow them.  Deck surfaces that are .020" off from end to end, cam tunnels that are not straight, pan rails that are not flat.  Grab several sets of 427 MR heads, TP heads, or HR heads, and pour some chambers.  If two pair of the same kind are within 10cc of each other, I'd be surprised. 

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 30, 2024, 07:04:52 PM »
In Brent's defense, my 361 Edsel block was off .018 across the deck and cleaned up at 10.172. It had the same quench as a '58 352 but the heads had no evidence of contact of any sort and would have had a min quench of .038.

But, Ford would NOT have release a engine with a nominal .036 quench if it would not be enough, period. 5 yrs later they built a all aluminum SBF, reliable enough to finish the Indy 500.

Now, if Ross's engine, that had a deck height of 10.155, had been assembled with a nominal .036 quench, It could not have left the assembly line so, it would have never made it to the street.

Last, it is my recollection (please correct me, if I'm wrong) that the the engine that Brent ran .035 quench on, was his JJ, 352 and he had aluminum rods in it (most high strength alum expands at 3 times the rate of steel). It didn't make any noise and didn't hurt anything, either.

Steel rods. Molnars.

Barry has seen the same thing as me.....contact marks at around the .036-.037" mark. 

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 30, 2024, 06:27:26 PM »
Yeah, I honestly don't really care what you think.   I mean, you offered such a strong counter-argument and everything (obviously, that's sarcasm), but I still just.... don't.... really.... care.   

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 30, 2024, 05:21:42 PM »
Ford had trouble machining a block within .020".
BS

Well, I've seen quite a few and have no reason to exaggerate.  I've seen factory blocks and aftermarket blocks that were off .020" (and worse) from end to end on one deck. 

Matter of fact, Ross posted on one 428 block the other day that had a high deck height of 10.183" and a low deck height of 10.155".

So sorry, yes I was wrong.......it was more like they couldn't machine a block within .028". 

Nothing like having 10.5:1 compression on one end of the engine and 9.9 on the other........ROFL






10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 30, 2024, 04:31:50 PM »
When you get down to that level, you have to measure every piston and make sure that piston rock won't be a factor.  A 1.920" piston will rock enough to touch at .035".  A 1.175" piston will rock enough to touch with more than that.   Just depends on the combo.

Ford had trouble machining a block within .020".  I would venture to say that most of the pistons were not sitting perfectly at .005" in the hole. 


11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Quench
« on: March 30, 2024, 10:48:48 AM »
I've ran .035" piston/head clearance before and it was starting to knock the soot off the pistons at that distance.

If you're .009" out, a .051" head gasket will be just fine. 

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: piston skirt clearance
« on: March 23, 2024, 04:03:19 PM »
I've seen many blocks from ole' Henry come out that were off .020" (not 2, but 20) from end to end on one deck. 

I've even seen some aftermarket FE blocks that were off that bad..............

13
One very interesting video he did was on flat tappet grinding. His findings made me rethink flat tappet problems. I would have posted the video but couldn't figure out how, hopefully the builders on here find it and give some feedback on their thoughts.

The biggest flat tappet cam failure cause is valve spring loads.  I'm not saying that there aren't other causes, but IMO, that's the biggest one.  Cylinder head manufacturers sell all kinds of heads that are "for flat tappet cams" and the valve spring loads are stupidly high.  Nobody needs 140 lbs seat for a hydraulic flat tappet. 

Combining that with the fact that most guys working out of their garage don't check the spring loads, or even know that they need a LOT less than what they have for break-in.  So instead of pulling the inner springs or swapping valve springs, they're bolting heads on and letting it eat. 

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: piston skirt clearance
« on: March 23, 2024, 10:26:46 AM »
Thanks for all the comments , I feel much better about running it as is. I'm not a engine builder or a machinist but have been a truck mechanic for the past 40 yrs. and thought it would be interesting to assemble this engine myself, thinking it would be fairly straight forward but from the beginning its been anything but. Was planning to use my old block but it sonic tested too thin in spots and looking for a acceptable replacement took months and a few road trips. The only good block I could find was a D4TE with the extra main webbing that had already been machined. It looked great ,sonic tested good but had some pitting in one cylinder, thought I could just have a sleeve put in and didn't realize would have to bore and deck it again, 5 months at the machine shop , got it back and installing the camshaft, had to shave two cam bearings to .007 clearance  to get the cam to rotate freely. Then measuring the piston skirt clearance on one cylinder .002 larger than the rest . The main clearances all measured .0025 - .0032 so that was nice but now as I'm mocking up a piston and rod on cylinder no. 4 , it measures .007 in the hole and when I used the same piston and rod in no. 1 it was .005 in the hole.  Is this acceptable ? The machinist is a one man show been doing it for 50 yrs. very FE experienced and a really nice guy, he said he square decked it, maybe he's having vision problems.  Also, when I torque the main caps to even 70 ft. lbs. my camshaft becomes noticeably harder to rotate. Is this normal ? It makes sense to me that if the heads torqued down distorts the cylinder bores, that the mains torqued would distort the cam tunnel. I think I'll install new cam bearings and make a cam cutter out of an old camshaft as Brent suggested and see if that helps. Should fitting the camshaft be done with the mains torqued ?  I'm not looking for perfection , I realize this is a 50 yr. old truck block, just want to know what is acceptable. Even with all these issues, I am enjoying learning this process and feel very fortunate to have this forum with so many good people with so much engine knowledge and so willing to help.

Doesn't make sense that the mains affect the cam.  I've never seen that before.

.002" between ends of one deck isn't really a deal breaker.  Probably just had the block out of level a hair.  Doesn't take much over the length of the deck. 

I don't really care for .007" cam/bearing clearance, but it would most likely run ok.

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: 3U crankshaft
« on: March 22, 2024, 04:42:12 PM »
I had Adney Brown work me up a 391 crank 5-6 years ago.  Did the snout work, did the flange work, turned the rod journals down to BBC size.  It was beautiful until it took about 8 pieces of heavy metal to balance it.

The application should always determine the parts specifications but if I was building an engine that wasn't under big boost, or not running with the throttle on the floor for three hours, I'd probably go with a good nodular crank and a good balance.  Less rotating mass, stiffer than forged, easier to balance, and the budget-friendly solution.  Everyone has their comfort zone.

Sometimes I have to work with what the customer sends/asks. 

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