I was told by my local NAPA store the 44-9204 starter was meant to go on a 170 cubic inch 6 cylinder. This would seem to be a little bit light to crank a 462 stroker in my 63 Galaxie with the 427 long cast iron headers.  Maybe it would work just fine but I was not comfortable with it.  In my application the standard late model FE starter with the stud on the side would absolutely not fit, the stud contacted the header. My local Car Quest got me a reman starter from Wilson Electric part#91-02-5821 that has the terminal for the starter cable on the commutator end. I believe it is for a 70's pickup FE application, sorry I can't give you an exact application but insist on that part #. Don't let them substitute to another "will fit" number because the substitute will have the stud on the side (been there-done that).  This part # fit well and so far is working fine. It's only been on a couple months though. Oh, it does have the correct 3 bolt mount pattern.

When I looked the Wilson Electric part#91-02-5821 up, it is for a 1977 Granda, Maverick, Comet, Monarch with thed 3.3 200 six

I have a 3/8 not in and 3/8 not out fuel pump, but the connectors run right into my stock power steering pump on my 63 Galaxie,  are there any you guys are running with power steering that will work?

I installed later bell housing and later starter on my 63 engine with the cast shorties. I noticed the starter wire post is within a 1/2 inch of the header.
I have heard there is a later Fe starter with the starter terminal coming off the back by the brushes, anyone know what year and model to ask for to get this starter?

I had the line bore check and it was fine, also it does the same thing in my 6 410 block. I stuck the 410 crank with its used std size bearings back into the the 66 block and it is fine. This crank was fine in this 68 block when I tore it down 3 years ago. It was a .020 .010 crank then also and it only needed a polish. So same crank, same block it came out of the only difference is new clevitte 77 bearings.

After I took the crank back out, here are some photos of the new bearings that were just installed using Brad Penn assembly lube. It was only turned over by hand a few times.

Putting engine together and crankshaft cannot be turned by hand, cannot grab ahold of a weight and spin it, have to have some leverage. Crank is a 390 .020 main crank in a 68 block. Do not have any employ either. Using Clevitte ms683 P-20 bearings. Put the crank and bearings in a 66 410 block I have here and same thing. They plastigauge at .001 and a couple at .0015. Beginning to think it is the Clevitte bearings because the crank was previously a .020 .010 crank that was fine before. Could spin it before like a wheel of fortune by grabbing a weight. And
Also is the thrust bearing the only different main bearing between early and late blocks? Tried these in a c3 block first before I put them in the 66 410 block and all the bearings fit the saddles except for the thrust bearing, it was way to tight.

They are c3ae 390 heads they measured at 69 cc. I was just talking with Eric at Rebco about cost of cutting some off the top of cast Pistons which he was very reasonable on that. This is a low budget weekend driver.

Would a step dish piston such as the KB 150 be more efficient in burning the fuel and therefore make as much power at a lower compression as a circular dish at a higher compression?  Would the gas mileage be better with the step dish or maybe run 87 octane instead of 91 octane with the same seat of the pants thrill?  Why does KB site say there is no quench on a circular dish piston?
For instance, same cam, head, but different head gaskets as H304p has a compression height of 1.759 and the KB150 is 1.780.
H304p circular dish with 12cc and .027 gasket with 4.250 bore and .021 deck clearance gives SCR of 9.94 and DCR 8.03.
KB150 with 20cc and .041 gasket with 4.4 bore and 0 deck clearance gives SCR of 9.28 and DCR 7.50.