X3 or 5 as above - only buy pressure fed solid rollers and check them every year.  Street or race, same deal IMHO.  What happens is easy - the shaft gauls and fails, releasing the little roller pins when then pretty much chew the carp out of the motor.  At the very least you can lose the cam.  But scattering hardened steel pins through a running engine is also contra-indicated.  Some higher end stuff - Isky I think - comes with bushings.  Either way, good lifters that last aren't cheap.  But they can be reused when you change cams and they can be rebuilt, which protects your initial investment. 

I'll add some notes - just in case.  I use a local guy - Michael at Freak Show Performance - so I'm lucky to have a pro converter house close by.  He built a converter for the dragster, using the standard setup for a PG converter with an adapter bell to fit a Ford.  Not uncommon, lots of the 275 tire types do things like that.  We ended up being about .065 too long in the converter once all the pieces to be used were set up and measured.  Full setback in the trans + .125 pull out was that much less than the depth from the back of the motor plate to the flex plate bolt face, including the required .250 spacers for the converter to clear.  He cut the converter apart and machined a few surfaces and I got back the space I needed.  Side note - he also would not let me pay him for the work.  Crazy.  I also had to take a little off the pilot adapter because of how the motor plate and flex spacer positioned the flex plate away from the end of the crank.  Needed a little step - not something you're likely to encounter, but if an adapter bushing is needed, note carefully how it seats in the crank.

All that to say - be sure you do several careful measurements using all the pieces you intend to run and a final mock up before fully committing to the final install. 

The adapting a PG to the Ford block ended up being right at $1000.

FWIW - I have a ProForm pump on the 302, been great for the last 3 years.  No issues at all.  I had one on the shelf as a backup and I sued it on the dragster 351C build.  It leaked from the get-go.  Same place, looked like out of the motor.  Bummer.  I did learn on the other pump that it's a good idea to separate the casting from the motor on a new ProForm and spray the gasket with High Tack, or other sealer.  But that didn't help the backup unit.  Not a lot of love in some places for CVR so I went with Meziere.  Expensive but hasn't missed a lick.  Bolt on and go. 

Don't like hearing this, have a distributor that needs a new shaft + reluctor and haven't sent it in yet.  I'd hate to get a $270 unit hung up in service.  I re-did a Duraspark unit to lock the timing advance for her car that so far runs fine.

Would love to do that on a tunnel ram on the dragster - that would be fun to play with. 

Nice catch

Are the Art Morrison front clips ford specific ?

As above - BUT, these chassis people have done a lot over the years and can very likely tailor the clip to your exact needs. 

I like the Boss towers, that's a more cost effective solution to what I'd like to do.  Dynacorn shows them in their catalog, about $300 a pop.  Part 3631HA (RH) & HB (LH)
http://dynacorndepot.com/shock-towernotched-kit-rh-1967-68-3631ha-mustang-67-68

I'd also add that for handling with the stock type suspension, go get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification book before you go spend a bunch on new fangled suspension parts. 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/book-boss-302-chassis-modification/p/BKBCM/

Between that and parts from people like Global West, you can make a Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane handle like a Trams Am car.