I'm still buttoning up my current 390 with BBM heads, but sort of stepped in another shortblock that I want to use to put together a collection of misfit parts. 

I have been porting a set of C1AE heads and will be using them for this build, I want an old school combo with iron heads and solid flat tappet cam.  Part of this is driven because that's what I want, part of it is cost.  This is very much being done on the cheap, but I don't want a low rpm combo, wanted something that will make decent power around 6000rpm and can shift at 6500 if really needed. 

I lucked into a Edelbrock 7505 dual quad intake for $150, and while I was picking up the intake I picked up a freshly rebuilt 390 longblock that had been sitting in bad storage, never fired.  It's going to need a hone on one cylinder, one piston was stuck but I've freed with a lot of Kroil, but the cylinders are fresh otherwise.  It has brand new SpeedPro .030" L2291F pistons, and had a brand new XE274H cam and lifters,  new Comp timing chain, Melling pump in it with stock reconditioned rods.  C4AE heads with fresh valve job, stainless 2.03"/1.53" valves, some generic springs, and positive seals. $200 for the longblock, I couldn't resist. 

I also have a 428 crank that I picked up last year that's been turned but will need polish, so plan is to use it to make a 416" from this shortblock, and either shelving or selling parts of the longblock.  I have Autotec pistons on the way, Crower EDM lifters, as well as a 247/256 .583/600 108 solid flat from Brent. 

So Edelbrock 7505, 10.5:1 cr, 247/256 solid flat, C1 heads ported to go 280/185ish, and 1 3/4" headers, 1.5/1.5/3mm ring package and a 3.98" crank. 

450hp out of the question, 500ftlbs?  Peaks at 6000/4300 respectively?  I want a "hotrod" motor so didn't care about idle, fuel mileage, or need for cheap gas.

Power estimate from a solid flat tappet combos listed by Brent and Paulie, acknowledging the heads I'm putting together likely aren't going to be as good as theirs

I found a decent deal for a set of BBMs and a hydraulic roller that a guy hadn't installed and was selling as project had taken another direction.  Heads were prepped by Brent, and the roller was spec'd from Barry so it was nice getting parts from folks we all know.   Shortblock was rebuilt around 2000-2001 then sat around, has maybe 1500mi on it after I got the car back on the road four years ago.  Good runner but could use a little more power, and I wanted to get rid of the Ford Red paint and all the leaks.  I know everyone is going stroker but figured I'd throw a few more modern parts on the combo for now and see how it does.   Figured I'd get PostImage working and document the work. 



I wasn't kidding when I said it was scuzzy, I'd started just keeping the hood closed. 


Checking TDC.  This Fowler mag base is pretty flimsy so I ordered a Noga that works better, but this was OK for this purpose.  I'm just a hobbyist so didn't spring for high end machinist stuff


Picked up the big 18" Moroso wheel and practiced degreeing the existing cam since it was "known".  Turns out it was 8* advanced




Did my best not to chowder the cam screws but I'm going to need new ones, they were pretty torn up before I started


Pulling the Comp 270H

Selling an AED 750 HO carb, this is a double pumper, no choke, black metering blocks. Carb is in perfect shape, I tried it out for a few weeks, just changed jets and squirters and then took it off. I'm in Richmond, VA and bought it directly from the AED shop. Drained fuel and stored inside since.

Summit sells them for $565
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aed-750ho-bk

$450 shipped to CONUS. Shoot me an email at leeson7373@gmail.com if interested.

Interested in 4.10 31spl center sections, or if you happen to have 31spl axles for a 63-64 fullsize.

I have a set of 3.00:1 9" gears, brand new Motive Gear brand.  Retail is $208, asking $100 plus shipping to CONUS.  Can email me at leeson7373 @ gmail.com if interested

Figured I'd do a brief write up of the Tremec TKO 500 swap into my '63 Marauder, as there seems to be a LOT of differing experiences/opinions on putting these trans into the early fullsize chassis.  Specifically, how to build the trans crossmember, floor mods, and clutch linkage modifications. 

Just a little background, I converted car to a T10 because I got it cheap with the pedal/clutch linkage setup.  Rebuilt the T10 and used that to get the car running and debugged, using an old Centerforce clutch I had laying around from my former '76 F250.  It performed fine and was sweet shifting, but that 2.3x first just killed the feel of the car.  I eventually threw a cheap 4.10 open rear in the car which finally made it work OK around town, but I drive the car a fair bit and it just killed the highway manners, 60mph cruise was around 2600rpm and with my exhaust setup just felt like a "hectic" ride. 

Here is the car


Engine is basic .030" 390, 750dp, Performer RPM manifold, bowl blended Edelbrocks, 270H Comp, FPA Tri Ys, ~9.5:1 cr.  Nice torquey combo, but still needed more SLR, but plenty of torque to pull 2000rpm cruise in OD so we'll see where I end up with rear gear, thinking the 4.10s will be perfect.  Rear tire is a 275/60/15. 

I bought a Quicktime bell, TKO 500, aluminum driveshaft, offset shifter from the classifieds on the Network54 site.  I would've gone for a 600 if buying new as the cost is the same, but this should work just fine for a street car, and initially I wanted to re-use the Centerforce clutch.  I also switched to an FRPP steel flywheel, didn't see the sense in putting an old cast iron flywheel in a $600 bellhousing. 

First thing noticed is that with the internal shift rails up top, the TKO is much more squared off and taller above the centerline than the T10, especially in the tailshaft area. 


The overall length is different between the transmissions.  However, with the different depth of bellhousings out there, there's no "definite" answer on whether the old driveshaft will work, as the package of trans length and bell depth will effect the total length. Therefore, best to just measure what you have and adjust accordingly.  I got an aluminum driveshaft in the bundle so I didn't have to modify my existing, but as I recall it wouldn've just needed 1-1.5" cust.

The mounting pad is further back on the TKO, and the bolt holes are at a slightly different center.  Also, the body of the gear case hangs "lower" on the TKO, meaning you'll have to notch your crossmember.  Not a big deal, but I'd say this is a definite on any swap.


Because the mounting pad is further back on the trans, there's a need to move the crossmember to the rear in the chassis.  I believe it was 2-3" but I did this last year, then moved houses, so don't have my notes.  Either way, not a huge issue.  There are several ways to move the mount, you can go bigtime and cut the mounts off the frame and relocate.  This would require widening the crossmember as the frame gets wider in that area as you move back, that seemed like a lot of work for no real benefits that I can see.  You can section the crossmember and move the mount back in the middle, or you can weld "tabs" on the crossmember mounts and move them back.  I chose the latter, less work and I was up against a time constraint last year to get the car mobile as I was moving.  If I did it again, I'd choose the second option and section the middle of the crossmember as I believe it's a "cleaner" install.  You'd likely have to mess with the Ebrake mount either way.  Pics show the small notch I had to take out of the crossmember flange to clear the main body of the trans, and the "tabs" I welded on to the crossmember to locate it back on the frame.




Also, if you have an early clutch fork (I reused the stock fork i had which has the wire clip), the pivot point is different than later bells/forks, so the pivot must be moved.  I measured it at ~3/8" outboard and redrilled. Again, tight timeline dictated using what I had, I'd definitely just buy a new fork with the spring clip retainer if doing this again.



Another minor tweak, as stated the trans mount dimension is different on the TKO, so had to drill/slot the trans mount to match.

Selling nice rebuilt Galaxie T10.  Has roughly 500 miles on it, rebuilt with new gears except for first.  Pulled it to install 5spd.  Shifts great, doesn't pop out of any gears.  Does have a bit of whine in first but not too bad. 

$600, will consider delivery within area of Richmond,VA.  I travel to PA frequently and could deliver within reason on my way as well. 

I have a narrow pattern bell, fresh T10, new Hurst shifter and rods, flywheel, and aluminum driveshaft to put a T10 in a 60-64 Galaxie.  Trans was behind a mild 390, street tire open diff car, not abused. 

I just pulled this out of my '63 Marauder, approximately 500miles on the setup, less on the driveshaft.  I found a great deal on a TKO500 so went that way. 

T10 rebuilt by me, all new bearings, sliders, synchros and 2-4th gears purchased from Ed Hartnett.  First is a little noisey but otherwise it shifts great, absolutely doesn't pop out of gear. 

Hurst shifter was new at time of install, bought it from Dan Williams, along with the rod kit, setup cost $500.

Bell has partial chipped ear but otherwise perfect, doesn't effect install. 

Driveshaft is a 3.5" aluminum Shaftmaster with 1330 joint and new Spicer yoke and ujoints. 

$600 obo, I'm in Virginia but travel to Pa frequently and would deliver to mid atlantic for the right situation. 

PM with any questions, thanks.