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Topics - chilly460

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16
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Joined the dark side...
« on: March 20, 2021, 03:51:16 PM »
Heartless, soulless, heavy, non-LeMans winning 460.....the shame. 




17
Private Classifieds / WTB 73-86 9” truck rear
« on: October 18, 2020, 05:46:07 PM »
Just looking for a truck rear 65” hub to hub, ratio doesn’t matter, don’t really even need the center section.  Anywhere in mid atlantic

18
Non-FE Discussion Forum / New non-FE project
« on: October 06, 2020, 12:30:36 PM »
Been looking for something to house a 408W and Performance Automatic C4 that I've had a LONG time.  Was targeting an F100 because I don't mind "patina" trucks and wanted something that wouldn't break the bank and could be built fairly quickly, after a year or so casual search this poppped up 3mi from my house.  Owner is pulling the engine/trans, I'll pick it up in ~2wks.  Front cab mounts and door pillars have already been fixed, I'll be fixing some relatively minor rust in the rear quarters and front of the bed, typical for these trucks.  Compared to others I've looked at in this area, in this price range, it's a solid truck.  Crown Vic frontend already tacked in.  I'm planning to put a 4 link in it and 4whl disks to make a nice little shop truck. 

408W was originally built for a street/strip fox body Capri so it's a bit snottier than what I'd build for the truck, but it's what I have on hand.  242/250* hydro roller, 4500rpm stall...so I'll put 4.10 in the truck and it will be a short run shop truck kind of deal.  Engine made 570hp/535ftlbs, think the truck will come in around 3700lbs so shouldn't be too heavy for the combo. 

No real plans to paint it, repainted with some type of cheapie "thick" paint so it's not a patina truck, just ugly.  Want to run some American Gasser or Rocket Injector wheels so keep it old school appearing.  My Merc was not a full frame off, I'm excited to do a frame off on the truck, much easier as it can be taken apart in pieces.  I've never done a full wiring harness so this will get a Painless/Ron Francis/AAW type deal, which will make it easy to run an in tank electric pump and electric fans, and radio...I'm not a big gadget guy so that's about it. 


19
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Where to find classic cars online?
« on: September 21, 2020, 08:08:32 AM »
I haven't really been in the market for a new ride in awhile, but am fairly tuned in to some of the old resources.   Issue is, it just seems that Ebay/Autotrader/Classic Cars.com which used to be resources, are just flooded with classic dealers, which have ridiculous pricing and dubious cars.  Looks to me at least in this area, Craigslist has dried up.   Facebook Marketplace is decent if looking for a project and is basically the new Craigslist in essence, but I'm looking for a finished car for my father to use, and just don't see too many nice cars on there.  I'm on a lot of the "classic car market" sites on Facebook as well, but you can't search/categorize, have to scroll through posts to find cars and it's tough to do regionally. 

BringATrailer is the best resource I've seen lately, but they just don't move much volume. 

So, is there any site out there that I'm missing, or just a matter of having to keep combing those I've listed?

20
FE Technical Forum / Canadian CJ Heads
« on: September 14, 2020, 02:57:24 PM »
I knew about Canadian CJ heads, but really hadn't bothered to know any details because of their rarity.  Saw a set of Dove Canadian CJs this weekend, they were hurt but a fair price and kind of cool being so unique.  Only info I can gather is they flow something like 320cfm intake, and the intake port is somewhere between a Low Riser and High Riser as far as physical size. 

Anyone on here run them or know much about them?  I'm guessing even if bought at a bargain price, modern stuff is more logical, but I do like unique or vintage stuff if not going for every last bit of performance.

Also, no need to comment on Dove, issues are known ad nauseum, really just wanted info on the port/chamber differences.

21
FE Technical Forum / Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352
« on: September 11, 2020, 08:32:04 PM »
In another thread, I described a 352 I'm working on.  Quick summary, it's an old 352 shortblock my father ran in a dirt track stocker in the mid 60s.  352 block and crank, LeMans rods, Jahns 332 pistons, 246* HiRiser FoMoCo cam, and it has one C3 427 head and a C1 generic head on it when I got it.  It also has two .050" cylinders and the rest are .040", with .040" pistons all around...this is definitely a cheapie build but I want to keep it as is for my father.

I bought another C1 head and tried my hand at porting the intake ports, then sent off to Les Schmader to look over and make sure I didn't screw them up, and do guides/valvejob and ported the exhaust as I didn't have time to finish up.  I cobbled together spring/retainer/lock package from TFS takeoffs, and Ferrea 11/32" 2.15/1.65 valves. 

Les said the ports were ok, he did clean up the guide as I just couldn't get a cutter on them that didn't chatter like hell, otherwise my shape was used.  He smoothed them up a bit but they're definitely not as nice as his work I saw in the shop and on the exhausts he did, I definitely need to get a steadier hand.  Admittedly, I didn't go through a lot of calcs to get throat size to match CI and flow requirements, this is my first port work besides some 460 exhaust port work to remove thermactor humps, so I just wanted to dig in and get a feel for it.  I did try to widen the short turn to slow it down over the low floor, and raise the roof a bit.  I didn't touch the floor other than knock casting flash and junk off.  I worked on a "bump" in the vertical wall short turn quite a bit as it forms a "ski jump" in the middle of the port, and some rough transitions into the bowl.  I did take out the bumps for the rocker bolts, which seems to be a mixed opinion on these, but I wanted to raise the roof and they have to come out to do so.  Learned a lot, learned I really don't have a smooth hand with the grinder yet, and want to keep doing more now that I've recovered. 

Immediate things I notice with the closeups, how chewed up the port edges look, need to keep the cutter moving.  Also, the corners are getting too much grinder time and there is less metal taken on the flat surfaces causing a "bow" on long flat surfaces.  Not sure it hurts flow or not, but something to try to improve on. 

.200   168cfm    115cfm
.300   250cfm    155cfm
.400   263cfm    179cfm
.500   284cfm    193cfm
.600   295cfm    198cfm
.700   298cfm    202cfm







22
FE Technical Forum / Preferred rocker system?
« on: September 06, 2020, 12:48:01 PM »
For the moment, independent of price, want to look at pros/cons of rocker setups out there:
Comp Gold
Harland Sharp
TD
POP stands with Lykins non adjustables

Looking at a ~235* .625" hydraulic roller type deal, on TFS heads. 

Maybe I'm not looking deep enough, but the way I see it, as long as the shafts/stands aren't flexing, and the rocker ratios are accurate, is there really an advantage to any of these?  I understand the taller rocker bosses on the TFS does pose some issues. 

Is there any advantage to the Crane setup with the one piece stand setup?  Seems it could be more rigid, perhaps a smidge easier to install?  If no other advantage, I'd lean towards the POP stands that will be offered .200" shorter for setup with the TFS. 

23
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Collector Car Insurance?
« on: August 24, 2020, 07:58:06 AM »
I've previously had my '63 Merc on my regular insurance, but need to add a second "classic" and looking into specialty insurance.  Quote from Hagerty to insure my Merc and a '90 Saleen Mustang is $998/yr.  Seems really high for collector cars, no?  Values were $25k and $23k respectively.  Anyone mind letting me know what you're paying for vehicles of similar value?   I feel like most guys are in the $400/yr range.   

24
FE Technical Forum / Welding a 427 block
« on: August 02, 2020, 06:08:59 PM »
Snagged a standard bore 427 marine block at Carlisle with a cracked water jacket, and wanted to get an opinion on the best way to fix.  Also, any known good cast iron welders in the Mid Atlantic region, let me know as I can travel a bit to get the block fixed. 

Can't read the date code on this one, first number is mangled.  I know sometimes they can be dated depending on which foundry location they came from, this is a DIF block.  Looks to be drilled for hydraulics but I haven't pulled the plugs for the galley crossover to see if they're plugged. 

Pretty excited to get a 427 block and had to take a bit of a leap a faith to grab it. 





25
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Thoughts on the new Bronco?
« on: July 15, 2020, 01:08:21 PM »
I think the consensus is that Ford did very well with this thing.  I was really surprised they didn't water it down too much, it comes with pretty nice hardware and capability.  I already know the gripes, it doesn't have a V8 and some won't like that it doesn't have a solid front axle.   I don't see how this is surprising, as it's based on the Ranger, so follows that architecture.  I'm fairly surprised its offered with the 2.7L, and very happy to see it as I'm very happy with the 2.7L EB in my F150. 

I will say I'm disappointed, very, that the manual isn't available with the 2.7L.  It's a bespoke transmission, so not sure why they didn't build it to pair with all engine options, it would make for a killer drivetrain. 

Looks are great, the fact that you can get dual lockers is great, and 4.70 gearing is beyond anything I'd have imagined, along with 35" tires being offered. 

What it's not, is cheap....but it's right on par with Jeep pricing so not really a shocker, just a harsh reality of modern vehicles. 

26
FE Technical Forum / Measuring bearing clearances
« on: July 12, 2020, 11:26:01 AM »
In the past I’ve had machine shops measure clearances and I’ll assemble, figured I’d learn a bit and bought a Fowler bore gauge and working on mains on my ratty 352.  I’ve used a dial bore gauge before without much issue, checking cam bearing and lifter bores.

Issue I’m having is on several of the mains with King bearings, I’ll see say .0026 near the parting line, move around 1/2” around the bore, see .0019”, move another bit and see .0020”.   I’m seeing .0020 of variance on the rear main.

Issue is I havent used a .0001” tolerance dial bore before so not real confident it could even be this far out.  I can repeat the numbers within reason though so don’t feel like it’s technique, although I’ll say using this dial bore take a steady hand. 

My question is has anyone seen that much variance in a bearing clearance?  I did check for any crud or burrs on the bearings and main bores. 

27
FE Technical Forum / Measuring spring pressure
« on: June 20, 2020, 12:35:25 AM »
I got a couple sets of rebuilt heads in a recent hoard purchase and I’m currently checking out the springs.  Seems every time I check springs they’re on the low side, while doing a little research I came across posts that pressure should be checked with the retainer in place?  Why is that?  Doesn’t seem like it’d matter.    I’m sure there’s a good reason but curious to know. 

28
FE Technical Forum / Small block/460 lifters in FE
« on: June 05, 2020, 09:30:05 AM »
Crower had a set of solid flat tappet lifters on clearance for $42 so I snagged them, they're small block/460 lifters which I understand can be run in an FE.  Just double checking that the only thing that needs to be done to run these in an FE is use 5/16" ball and for the lifter, versus 3/8" which was standard for FE? 


29
Private Classifieds / Medium riser heads for sale
« on: May 29, 2020, 10:20:17 PM »
Change of plans so selling off a pair of Medium Riser heads, C5AE-F.  Heads have been rebuilt, very nice shape.  One is a 65 casting, one is a 70 with port work.  Thumbprints still there but they’ve definitely been cut.  $1500 plus shipping, willing to separate












30
Finally got into the 352 short track engine that I picked up awhile back, my father crewed on the car that ran 352s in NewYork starting in ‘66.  This is their last iteration, odd little combo.  Had one 427 LR head and one standard C1AE head, lightened lemans rods, Jahns domed pistons, and a C4AE-B “high riser” cam. 

I picked up another C1 and ported them, they are being finished by Les Schmader, and have a Street Dominator for it.  I was going to run a 247* SFT I have on the shelf, but I’m really trying to keep it as original as possible so now will likely go with the Ford cam which I understand is old school lazy but should sound great and is a decent match for the topend it’ll have. 

Another oddity, .050” over on 1&4 and .040” in other cylinders, they were a shoestring budget team and basically slapped it together as cheap as they could back then.  I have no interest in fixing the sins, whole intent is to build it for my father as close to as it was as possible. 

So, to the questions.  #5 has some surface rust in it, they coated it with grease but that hole got a dose of rust.  Best way to get this out?  Figure I can scrub it with a scotch Brite and diesel then ball hone?  Also, are grooved mains normal?  Finally, any way to tell if the pistons are forged or cast?  Odd looking unit with the concentric grooves in the Skirts









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