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Messages - KMcCullah

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31
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cut down 427 "tulip" valves in a 428CJ head..
« on: January 29, 2022, 09:27:40 AM »
Years ago I found a smokin deal on a set of Manley tulips for a 427 LR. At the time I was mud dragging a std bore 390 so I cut the valves until they fit in a 4.054 cylinder. Ended up with 2.150 and 1.65. Sent the valves and a set of beat down C4-G castings to Les Schmader.
He came up with some pretty decent flow:
235/181@.300
285/200@.500
295/203@.600
300/205@.700

They worked well with a port matched Performer RPM and an 830 Nascar carb. Won a few races too.

32
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 flex plate what to get
« on: January 23, 2022, 09:43:25 PM »
This is the one in the red truck:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-915702

It's taken quite a bit of hard use. Torque converter flashes at 5600rpm.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt7xTs2soBk

Dose that Ati one you listed need the adapter and ati bolts?

Cheers.

Yes sir forgot the adaptor flange:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-915611

I ended up using low profile ARP bolts due to torque converter interference.

33
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 flex plate what to get
« on: January 22, 2022, 09:15:50 AM »
This is the one in the red truck:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-915702

It's taken quite a bit of hard use. Torque converter flashes at 5600rpm.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt7xTs2soBk

34
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: moonlit night
« on: December 24, 2021, 03:07:06 PM »
Linky no worky, Heo. Maybe cuz I'm not a FB member  ???

35
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Happy Thanksgiving
« on: November 25, 2021, 10:49:08 AM »
Happy Thanksgiving fellers.

How to smoke a turkey:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVsspa6iEoE


36
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve spring compressor for in car work.
« on: November 11, 2021, 08:36:24 AM »
I'm looking for a tool that I can use to replace valve springs and seals without removing the head on a FE 427, ebock heads.  The Lisle 36050 looks like the ticket, but I doubt it will work on our big stiff springs .  Tim Oelerich makes one, but pricy ?


Ted

The Lisle 36050 is the magnetic keeper remover. The Lisle 16750 is the valve spring compressor. I bought one years ago to swap valve springs on my 416. It doesn't work worth a poo if you have double or triple springs.

37
Member Projects / Re: 1962 F100 unibody drag truck
« on: October 14, 2021, 10:57:03 AM »
Thanks for the compliments guys. Will pass em on to dad.

Jay- The Batmobile belongs to Sherman Umberger. He's a super nice guy. Awesome drag racing family. I wish the video ran another few seconds. It would have caught him getting loose and crossing right behind me.

Doug- The brakes do slightly drag. I wasn't a 100% happy with the way the calipers mounted up. They're 4 piston calipers so they have to be mounted dead nuts centered with the rotor. The shim washer kit that Wilwood sent didn't have the exact thickness of washer we needed. McMaster-Carr would probably have the shim washers I need. Will revisit this winter.

One of the improvements I forgot to mention was the aluminum drive shaft. The trucks usual 60' times were always 1.43-1.44. The first pass I made with the aluminum drive shaft, the 60' time improved to a solid 1.42. I was surprised. I thought it was going to help pick up some on the big end. But after 40 passes, the only improvement we ended up with was 60' times. I reckon with a more aerodynamic car it may have helped on the big end. The truck has the same aerodynamic qualities as a refrigerator. 

38
Member Projects / Re: 1962 F100 unibody drag truck
« on: October 10, 2021, 10:31:27 AM »
We had another fun summer of drag racing. Dad was able to reunite with several high school classmates. FE's and F100's seem to attract old guys.  ;D   My driving has improved to a point that I usually make it to the semi finals most race nights.

 The local track had it's season finale Wally race last night. We thought as a last ditch effort for the 10's, we would try a 2" Super Sucker. The truck liked it! We ran a new best of 11.06@116. It didn't get us to the 10's but any improvement in bracket racing is a win in my book.

Below is a link to a video that a friend took with slow motion. I thought it was pretty cool. Especially since it was the same pass that we ran our new best time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kt7xTs2soBk

39
FE Technical Forum / Re: Genesis Block Failure
« on: September 26, 2021, 09:13:45 AM »
KMcCullah,  This is a Kryptonite billet 4.125 with center counter weights and GRP 6.8 Rods. Bob weight was in the 1900’s. I’m glad you haven’t had any issues. But it would make me a little nervous. Upgrading to steel caps is probably a good idea if it gets raced much. Sweet trucks by the way

You didn't skimp on the rotating assembly. Hopefully the crank checks out. Adding the tapped holes to the center of the already weak gray iron cap was probably a factor in the pudding. Oh the pics look painful. Lol

40
FE Technical Forum / Re: Genesis Block Failure
« on: September 25, 2021, 10:33:53 AM »
It made a lot of power but not enough to do this!!
This is a 501” Genesis block built for sand drags in a bronco. Spent the summer ironing out issues.
But it only has five passes on it. 16:1, Blue Thunder MR heads raised to HR, sheet metal intake, dual 1180 SV1’s , solid roller, shifting at 8000. My first pass of the year exposed ignition issues, wouldn’t rev past 4000.
Swapped to an old Msd 7 the day before the next race, but didn’t have any rev limit pills. Decided to race anyway because I wasn’t planning on pushing it that hard. That was a mistake. Spit out the pinion on launch and went to 9000. Valve train kept up though, no bent valves or other issues.
Upgraded the rear end and was ready to race in time for Labor Day. This time made several solid passes. Ran fantastic, pulling to 8000 and turning great times even though in 2wd. After my last pass,
Oil pressure dropped considerably, so I decided to be satisfied with the performance and put it on the trailer.
I speculated that perhaps I hadn’t let my oil get warm enough before making passes and wiped the mains. However, when I pulled the engine down today, I found split main caps and cracks in the main saddles that run all the way up the cylinders. Engine makes an honest 850hp based on times.
Could detonation cause this much damage? I ran Sunoco 116 and crank trigger at 32 degrees.
I did find an air leak early on that would create a lean condition but it was never raced this way.
Thoughts please! I tried to attach pictures but I’m too stupid. I’ll see if I can figure that out

Sorry to hear about your loss. I'm curious, what crank you're running? What's the stroke length?

My 504 has the first gen Genesis block. With iron caps. Been bracket racing it for a few years now. Probably has 250 passes on it with 1 re-bearing. I guess I get away with bashing on it because it only makes about 650hp. And I don't zing it past 7000rpm. Steel caps will definitely be part of the next recipe.

41
I ran the Professional Products damper for a few years on my 504. It didn't take long for the laser etched timing marks and numbers to become illegible. Like one mud race actually. I ended up having to hand scribe the timing marks. The Professional Products unit was zinged past 7K rpms many times without issue I'll add. Earlier this year I replaced it with a ATI-918310 because I needed a SFI approved damper at my local drag strip.

42
FE Technical Forum / Re: Steel distrubitor gear
« on: August 31, 2021, 07:22:10 AM »
I recently used the Mallory 29420 steel gear. It was a lot cheaper than the MSD 85813. Hopefully I didn't get what I paid for.

43
FE Technical Forum / Re: Clutch issues
« on: August 14, 2021, 11:08:12 AM »
Took my 428CJ powered 59 2 door sedan out to the local 1/4 mile dragstrip last weekend, here in Nova Scotia. I actually ran it once last year, when I was still in British Columbia, at Mission Raceway, but with the street tires, it was spinning and wheel hopping pretty badly, so I had to let of the gas each time. Anyhow, I ran it with a pair or 9x28" MT slicks, at 20 psi, since I was leaving pretty low RPM wise. First off, I gotta say, the car is both heavier and slower than I was hoping for, over 4000 pounds with me in it. The car has the near stock 428 that dynoed at 382 HP a few years ago, and over 475 ft/lbs of torque, all at below 5200 RPM.For better gas mileage, I currently have a 1850 Holley 600 vacuum carb on it, which has great street manners, and gets somewhat, kinda, almost decent gas mileage. The car has a small block wide ratio Toploader 4 speed from a 66 289 Fairlane, a McLeod Long style Street Pro 11" clutch, and 3.50 gears. The first pass was so-so , leaving at 2000 RPM, and sliding the clutch a bit, 60 foot was 2.19, and it ran 14.07ET @ 97 MPH, but I felt the clutch slipping a bit on each gear change. Each pass afterwards the clutch slipped more noticeably, not terribly, but definitely apparent. For run numbers 2 & 4, I came off the line at near idle, but it tended to hesitate and stumble some, so for the 4th pass, I let the clutch out at 2000 again, and then nailed the throttle, but it slipped noticeably all thru low gear, as well as each gear change, so I parked it for the rest of the weekend, and just ran the Fairmont. With the 3.50 gears, I was hitting 4th gear just before the finish line, so I plan to try the car again, with 4.30s in a few weeks, which should also make life a bit easier on the clutch. Just wondering if I should consider McLeods "Super" Street Pro clutch over the winter, or any other thoughts. I like the current clutch on the street, pedal effort is good, and other than an occasional bit of clutch chatter while backing up, it`s generally pretty nice to live with, in the 5000 miles I have put on the car so far. Funny, for years my daily driver/bracket car was a 302 Fairmont with a T5 and 3.55 gears, that ran low 13s and high 12s , using a stock replacement 10 1/2" Dynapak clutch, although that car was 800 pounds lighter, had a 3.35 low gear ratio, and much less torque.

I think for puting around, the Street Pro is great. Nice pedal. I ran one behind a 390 in my Highboy. With a NP425. It slipped some when I pulled a trailer. The only other fancy clutch I've tried was a 12" Centerforce DF behind my 504. Dumping the clutch at 5k. I've heard a ton of negative things about the DF too. It slipped some but took the spanking.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO7d0e5jirM


44
FE Technical Forum / Re: What the heck is going on in the oil pan?
« on: August 08, 2021, 10:12:35 AM »
Fascinating tests, Jay! If your bearings aren't showing any signs of distress after being fed with aired up oil, then I'd thing your clearances and oil supply are sufficient. For what it's worth, I think my 504 has the same crank as this dyno mule and has been spun past 7k hundreds of times. The oil filters were showing metal when I pulled it down last year for inspection. The rod bearings had some ugliness. The crank looked great. When I built it, I used the old rule of .001 per inch of journal diameter to established clearance. So .0022-.0025 was the range of clearance on my rod journal bearings. About the same side clearances as this mule, .007-.010. I added .0005 clearance to the rod bearings when I put it back together. This dropped the oil pressure to 60psi (was 70psi) at 7k rpms (now I'm breaking the old rule of 10psi/1k rpm :)) and almost zero psi at idle with a M57HV pump. But no metal in the filter. I wonder if aired up oil was my problem? Was running 15-40 Rotella. And I'm certain the oil was not getting up to it's designed operating temp. Have since switched to 10-30 Royal Purple.

My David Brown tractor has a oil bath style air cleaner. It has a series of screens stacked in the can body that the air is drawn through. I wonder if a stack of these type of screens at the top of the pans sump would help separate the air from the oil? 

45
FE Technical Forum / Re: Ballast
« on: June 14, 2021, 07:52:55 AM »
I wouldn't add that kind of weight to reach a 50/50 weight bias. It's just not that big of a deal for a street/strip car. Different story for a dedicated bracket racer. Suffling weight from front to rear makes more sense to me. Battery to the trunk etc.

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