I was involved in a pretty serious motorcycle crash end of July, so finally getting well enough to get back to this.  I made a prototype crossmember from 1x2 with a .080 wall.  The focus was to see how making the cuts and bends would work without having to cut all the way through the tubing.  Trial and error, and a really useful youtube video helped make the right cuts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFdmdC2zxZc.  I kept cutting too deep without the offset and had a nasty gap to fill, so this helped a lot.  So I ended up with a nice 42" span with a 1/2" drop and TIG welded it up.  This way it can tuck up just under the floor and give maximum exhaust clearance.  This material is definitely too thin though, when I stand on it it will deflect a 1/4".  I'm unsure how much actual weight would be on the trans mount, probably a few hundred?  So the next iteration will be 1x3 with a .120 wall.  I think that should be plenty stout.

Is there a better/cleaner option for raising the floor braces when you need more driveshaft clearance?  The floor braces themselves are really just ~20g hat channel that is bent into a U shape to clear the driveshaft/transmission.  I thought there would be some universal options out there, but apparently not?  I've used 1/4" round pipe in the past for this, but it looks hideous (yes, its under the car and nobody knows it's there, but I know its there!  ).  Any better suggestions?

AIR — American Iron Roadster


All of the rules that apply to the FR/GR class apply here, but the engine used must be from a production American car or pickup prior to 1973 with an iron block and cylinder head. Welding or brazing is only allowed on the block or head for the purpose of repair, so exotic port rerouting is out of the question. The only engine class in AIR is C, so maximum engine displacement is 373.99 cubic inches. Electronic fuel injection, computer controlled ignition, and data collection methods are all prohibited.

Poteet's 61 Starliner would be a great match.   

Bonneville is super fun, def. a different place to race all together.  The times I've run out there I've been lucky with rock hard surface that had all the traction I could have wanted.  In fact, I had to behave with the bike because the front end wanted to come up.  The altitude, unrelenting sun and changing track conditions through the day add challenge to it. 

I noticed something on the Modern Driveline website about the output shaft of the TKX. 

"The TKO offers a little more adjustment approx. 5/8" at the tail shaft vertically for the driveline angle.  Perfect for Pro-Streeters who love to tuck the rear suspension up into their ride"

Can someone explain what this means, are they saying the output is 5/8" higher than the TKO?

That is super cool bike Heo!  Are they common over there?   I "restored" an XS-1 a few years back.  Still my favorite bike out of the fleet to ride. 

I also like the ones that Jared uses, they are also known as EZ-Loks.  Those are the inserts I'm using in my new cylinder heads.  I've broken Timeserts before, so I don't like to use those.  Never had a problem with EZ-Loks.

Similar variant I've come to like is 'keen-sert'.  It's like a full thread insert that has four stakes.  I've yet to have one fail on me.