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Messages - cammerfe

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Speedmaster 8 Stack
« on: November 28, 2021, 05:46:26 PM »
I've used Webers on two different engines. On one, I switched from mechanical injection to the Webers and found that the Webers were almost as good, MPG-wise, as the injection, DEPENDING ON HOW I DROVE IT. In the other case I Weberized from another carb set-up, and after a bit of tinkering, got an improvement.

On the other hand, the sophistication of today's EFI probably gives the benefit to the electronic system. But, in my case, I've not tried stack injection. The manifolds very likely have balance passages,  but the lack of any meaningful plenum must be some sort of a handicap for street driving. Good Luck if you go that route.

KS

2
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: What i have to endure
« on: November 27, 2021, 09:46:32 PM »
If I understood properly this had something to do with a girl talking about light.

On the other hand, I was once married to a Swede girl from far northern Michigan. I guess I got distracted. ::)

KS

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Side Rod Clearance Question
« on: November 22, 2021, 11:06:27 PM »
Quote from: machoneman on November 22, 2021, 09:29:39 AM
Quote from: cammerfe on November 21, 2021, 10:59:36 PM
Quote from: Stangman on October 31, 2021, 09:18:21 PM
That’s a lot of work on that crank I’d hate to get it dirty. I’d like to put it on the coffee table so I could just look at it although I don’t think the wife would appreciate it.

I 've noticed that wives seem to have very little understanding of such verities. On the other hand, they often can fully appreciate six or eight hours at a stretch of Hallmark movies. ::)

KS

Hah! Love the Hallmark note. My sister-in-law could not wait until they started running the Christmas specials with back-to-back episodes 24 hours at a stretch! Funny indeed.

 :) :) ;) ;)
I've been married 49 years to this one. I've been able to watch LOTS of Hallmark movies.

KS

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Side Rod Clearance Question
« on: November 21, 2021, 10:59:36 PM »
Quote from: Stangman on October 31, 2021, 09:18:21 PM
That’s a lot of work on that crank I’d hate to get it dirty. I’d like to put it on the coffee table so I could just look at it although I don’t think the wife would appreciate it.

I 've noticed that wives seem to have very little understanding of such verities. On the other hand, they often can fully appreciate six or eight hours at a stretch of Hallmark movies. ::)

KS

5
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: pretty nice Galaxie at Mecum
« on: November 17, 2021, 11:31:13 PM »
I find it interesting that the list of highlights claims a Toploader in a 1963-build car. My own '64 Custom, delivered to Bill Brown Ford in mid-February of '64, came with a T-10 in it. When I twisted off the output shaft during a granny-shift into second gear a couple of months later, I went to Bruno Zava, Executive Engineer at T&C Livonia and he arranged for me to get a big in-'n'-out Toploader as a replacement. At that time, some were being built, but they hadn't gotten all the way through the parts chain.

KS

6
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 2.8 hp per cu in at tire on my 1966 F100 pump gas
« on: November 12, 2021, 11:19:55 PM »
You must have axle wrap and suspension chatter like nobody's business. Can you keep it in the same lane on a full-on shift?

KS

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE 427 flywheel
« on: November 06, 2021, 10:27:38 PM »
The last time I was in a position such as yours---(need for unusual flywheel)---I found it easy to order an undrilled flywheel from multiple manufacturers. Some also seemed to be willing to alter the bolt hole patterns they offer. Simply choose a flywheel of a size you find necessary. This will still leave you with the necessity to arrange for a starter, and positioning one satisfactorily will necessitate a properly equipped shop and skilled machinist. Various race shops could undoubtedly give service. Where are you located?

Have you talked to Hewland?

KS

8
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Torque Wrench
« on: November 04, 2021, 09:51:20 PM »
It's easy enough to make a half inch square to half inch square adapter and test click-style, digital, and dial-reading wrenches against a beam-type. Unless you deform the shaft, the beam type stays accurate. Click-style is the quickest, and the most likely to have a ratchet-type head, so it's easiest to use---particularly when you're doing multiple passes. For ultimate accuracy, switch to the digital or dial for the last pass.

KS

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: nitrous oxide
« on: November 04, 2021, 09:38:25 PM »
Quote from: pbf777 on November 04, 2021, 11:53:41 AM
Quote from: Phil Brown on November 03, 2021, 11:32:05 PM
No timing changes.......I'll wait for the pinched ring land thread 🙃

     BUT!   ::)

Quote from: cammerfe on November 03, 2021, 10:46:03 PM
I also decided to run methanol with the spray system.

Thank you for the emphasis. It's exactly the point I was making. I'd never attempt the stuff I did (and will do) if I were to be running the best of race gas. By the way, not mentioned above is that the entire engine fuel system had been optimized for, and ran on, C16. I was a bit leery of the strength of the transmission, as well, and although the spray system was completely ready to go, I didn't click the switch until I'd shifted into third, and I didn't purge the nitrous oxide line before starting the run. This had the effect of softening the 'hit'.

KS

     Scott.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: nitrous oxide
« on: November 03, 2021, 10:46:03 PM »
Probably the man with the most experience with 'spray' is Barry. I'd have a talk with him.

My first 'bottle-fed' experiment was back in the late '70s. I was running a turbo and decided to use the bottle instead of building an intercooler system. I also decided to run methanol with the spray system. Use a completely dedicated system with a five gallon fuel cell to hold the alcohol. Used a return design with a fuel pressure-based bypass to return the extra fuel. Electric pump solely for the methanol. This was a purely street vehicle.

I used the same basic layout on my land speed car, but that was not turbo'd. I was sponsored by NX during that time and they were very good about suggestions. They supply an instruction manual that's more than 100 pages long, and are always happy to talk. I used a nozzle system mounted just before the throttle body and had jets and plumbing able to produce in excess of 500 HP. The combo I used to set the records, (4X in one day) only supplied a bit less than a 200 'bump' but it was good enough to set a record in E/F Comp Coupe/Sedan that still stands. This is one mile standing start on concrete with ECTA sanction.

You may not want to go to the extra effort of using methanol, but it is VERY forgiving. Methanol has an anti-knock rating of about 120 octane and can be run VERY rich. Down close to 4-to-1. It just makes more power the richer you make it. But beware of  the possibility of hydraulic-locking a cylinder. Due to the properties of methanol, I simply put in one step colder plugs and didn't bother with timing changes.

KS

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 steel crank
« on: October 29, 2021, 10:10:39 PM »
 ;) :o ;)

Used the basic smiley to suggest my comment was not, in any way, intended to be a 'backhand'. My long-ago degree in chemistry and then my work at FoMoCo as a metallurgical process engineer makes me sensitive to something that is not-quite-correct from a chemical viewpoint.

No offense, at all, intended.

KS

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 steel crank
« on: October 28, 2021, 10:16:28 PM »
A caveat---nitriting and nitriding are not at all the same thing, chemically. Please notice the 'd'. The surface treatment for steel has the 'd'. :)

KS

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: What is the best connecting rod that can be purchased?
« on: October 27, 2021, 10:29:46 PM »
I think you actually want to ask: What is the best rod for my application?

Super and ultra cars such as a Bugatti or Ferrari or Koenigsegg often use rods made from titanium. The manufacturers believe that makes the best sense for their purpose. My own current project will carry aluminum rods made by GRP. My intention is to put together an engine that will run at insane RPMs, under exceptional boost levels, on a mix of methanol and nitrous oxide. All else is subordinate to those parameters.

The first TP I put together was in 1968. The last one was more than ten years ago, so I've been there a few times. If I were doing it now, within the limits you've set above, I'd use a good steel aftermarket piece. The exact budget you're working with and other factors you've not mentioned would tie into the ultimate choice.  :)

KS


14
FE Technical Forum / Re: 6" Vac at Idle?
« on: October 26, 2021, 10:18:44 PM »
Quote from: GerryP on October 26, 2021, 11:02:54 AM
Quote from: CV355 on October 26, 2021, 10:49:46 AM
...
Can you elaborate on that?

Inside the Ford distributor, below the points plate, there is the centrifugal advance mechanism.  This consists of a plate with two slots opposite each other, the springs, and the distributor rotor shaft that is controlled by the advance mechanism.  Those opposing slots are where a tab fits in, but only into one of the slots.  The slots are stamped with the number of distributor degrees, which are half crankshaft degrees.  Every Ford distributor is different to account for the many configurations required.  In this instance, he's referring to the one slot being stamped "10", which is 10 distributor degrees, or 20 crankshaft degrees.  And it is crankshaft degrees from which you use the timing light and read the distributor centrifugal advance.  You can see how the centrifugal advance works by removing the distributor cap and turning the rotor.  It does move a bit and in this case, up to 10 degrees out of the circle.

Thanx Gerry---
Very well explained. (I come from a time when we mostly used factory parts and people were aware of the inner 'guts' of factory distributors.) I did put an all-Mallory ignition on my first car---a '53 Merc Flathead :))

KS

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: 6" Vac at Idle?
« on: October 25, 2021, 10:09:55 PM »
I agree with Gerry regarding total advance. The old factory solid lifter approach was to have the diz in the slot marked 10 degrees, which is, of course, actually 20 ignition degrees. Putting in an additional 18 initial, for a total of 38 always worked well so long as you made sure to keep your tank full of Sunoco 260. More modern combustion chambers in aluminum heads might well see your ultimate at 35 or thereabouts total, but you'd need to sneak up on it from where you are at present. Very likely 30 isn't enough. Working with a set of Dove F5 heads with Jim's own chamber design, at 11.5 measured compression and a Comp cam with 242-248 at .050 and lift around .650, we found 34 to work very well during Dyno evaluation.

KS

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