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Messages - Coubra

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake conversion to port fuel injection
« on: September 04, 2023, 05:21:13 PM »
I have the intake from an Edelbrock ProFlo 2 that I'm willing to sell.  PM me.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 26, 2022, 09:53:43 PM »
The distributor has been set up to Brent's specs with the MSD gear and roll pin installed.

Everything is apart and the oil pump is untouched.  We're going to install the high pressure spring in the pump and put it back together after thorough cleaning and inspection.  The oil filter had nothing in it.

Thanks for the help, I'll keep you posted.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 24, 2022, 10:52:38 PM »
Thank you for your responses.

At this point I feel like an idiot.  After a catastrophic failure two years ago where the original block was ruined, all moving parts were replaced except for the push rods, rocker assemblies, and, you guessed it, the distributor.  I cleaned it, looked at it for any damage, but did not replace the roll pin or even take it out to check it. 

The oil pan and pump will be removed, cleaned, and inspected.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 24, 2022, 11:29:29 AM »
Forgot to mention that we turned over the oil pump with a speed handle and got 50 psi quickly - turned over smoothly too.  Will get to draining the oil today and checking the oil filter. 

Thoughts on the high-pressure spring kit?  Only pushing around 50 psi max and twisting it to 6K+  The remote filter/cooler setup drops 20 psi.  Would like to run a heavier oil but the Morel lifters restrict it to 40 weight (using 10W-40 Lucas synthetic racing)  Idles at 20 psi.

Lots of additions here - full track temps were high.  220 range.  Going to swap 195 thermostat out for 180 but not confident that will make a difference.  It can idle and run around town all day long without a problem.  For some strange reason I tried using Evans waterless coolant, but I'm going to drain that and use water/antifreeze.  Also noticed coolant coming down from the front of the Edelbrock water pump (Billet Specialties accessory drive)

Pulling the pan is a total pain in the ass because I've got an AJE strut suspension and the K-member has to be dropped.  The big shame is that the alignment is perfect and I loved how the car turned in at the track.

Thanks.  Yes, it's a real one - #237.  It was my Dad's daily driver and was an AO Smith demo car at the home plant in Milwaukee where he was a safety engineer - he bought it in 1970.  Acapulco blue - the original color.

5
FE Technical Forum / Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 23, 2022, 09:09:20 PM »
Took our '69 Shelby to Road America for the Optima event this weekend.  The car (and I) have a lot of sorting out to do, but the big problem was a broken distributor gear roll pin.  Using a Precision Oil Pumps blueprinted HV oil pump/billet driveshaft and Edelbrock (think MSD) Pro Flo 4 distributor with their gear/roll pin. Not running lots of oil pressure with a Canton remote filter and Mishimoto cooler (thinking about installing the high pressure spring kit).  Going to put the MSD 85813 gear on the distributor (Comp roller hydraulic cam with Morel 8591 lifters)

Question 1: Is the distributor gear supposed to make contact with the block? 
Question 2: Is there a procedure to make sure the bottom of the gear is a specific distance from the point where the distributor housing makes contact with the block to the bottom of the gear?
Question 3: Should the new gear/distributor shaft be drilled out for a larger roll pin?
Anything else?

For what it's worth, the engine pulled very nicely (thanks for the great job on the heads Barry) and I look forward to getting it on the track again.  Yeah, we were the only FE there...

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rear Main Seal Leak
« on: August 08, 2021, 09:57:52 PM »
Took your advice and yanked the transmission, bell housing, and flywheel. We (four mechanics) saw no evidence of the cam plug or threaded/sealed gallery plugs leaking at the back of the block.  We did notice oil coming down from the road draft tube fixture at the back of the intake manifold - fixed.  Saw oil running down the rear corners of the block that ends up on the starter and looks like it runs down the block to the block plate on the other side.  Did not see evidence of cap side seals leaking and front side of crankshaft & flywheel don't have oil slinging off them.  Bolted it back together, changed the valve cover gaskets, and ran it - still leaks. 

Suspended engine, dropped K-member, dropped oil pan and windage tray.  Still no oil visible on front side of crankshaft flywheel mounting flange.  See picture 6546 - oil running down front of block plate.  Changed oil seal with another Fel-Pro unit - this time putting light coat of Good Stuff on outside of seal and filling side seal grooves, along with 3/8" offset and small dabs at end of seals.  Installed cap, torqued, and pushed RTV-coated side seals as far as they would go pushing sealant out.  Cut off end of rubber side seals, pushed more sealant into cap/block intersection, put a dab of sealant at the cap/block point,  installed gasket-windage tray-gasket-oil pan, and torqued.  Let sit overnight, retorqued pan, put it all together with a new left valve cover gasket (just because the old one was suspect) and ran it this afternoon.  Still leaks down the front of the block plate and at both the lower rear head stud/nuts - see 6552 & 6556.  No valve cover leaks and can't see any intake manifold leaks. 

This is driving me crazy!  Was s'posed to have the car at Road America for the Optima event this month, but unless somebody's got a grand revelation, I'm going to give up my spot.

7
FE Technical Forum / Rear Main Seal Leak
« on: July 31, 2021, 07:49:20 PM »
Installed "new" 428 block with Scat 4.25" stroke & stock bore in our '69.  1st run had some minor issues and oil leaking from rear of block.  Resolved issues, ran again with same leak that somehow, didn't fix itself...
Read all the other threads on rear main seal problems/install - good stuff.
Dropped K-member, suspended engine, and changed seal.  Original & replacement seal is Fel-Pro BS30138.  Was a little concerned when the new seal rotated easily into the block (crankshaft doesn't have sipes machined in seal surface area).  Did 3/8" seal rotation, put dabs of Permatex Optimum gasket maker on the end of the seal, and put small amounts on cap corners along with a few dollops in the side seal runs close to the block/cap intersection.  Installed cap without the side seals and torqued.  Sanded side seals, coated with gasket maker, applied a couple dollops to the side seal runs, then pushed the seal in until it wouldn't go any further and pushed out excess gasket maker - didn't use nails.  Trimmed side seals, spread some gasket maker on the inside cap/block seams, bolted up windage tray/oil pan (the bearing vent is exposed), reassembled engine/K-member, and let stand for 24 hours.  Cranked it up yesterday and it's got the same freakin' leak.  PCV valve is pulling air while running with 10" vacuum.  Ran it again today with UV dye in oil.
New plan: Drop the trans (TKO 600), take off bell housing, and check behind block plate to make sure the plugs and cam plug aren't leaking.  Assuming they're okay, then drop the K-member and pan again to retry seal.
Questions:
1) Is there a better seal out there?
2) Didn't put gasket maker on the seal where it contacts the block cap. Should I put a thin coating on the portion going into the cap? 
3) How will I get gasket maker on the portion rotated into the block without contaminating the surface of the crankshaft?
4) Plan on doing the same thing with the cap and side seals.  Should that change?
5) Thinking about changing to Permatex's Anaerobic gasket maker.  Anybody have any experience with this stuff?
Any help will be appreciated.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Tunable Throttle body fuel injection for racing
« on: August 05, 2020, 07:46:31 PM »
After seeing some other plugs for port injection, I'm going to put my two cents in.  This past year installed an Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 system on our engine, where a Pro-Flo 2 system had been before.  The 2 had been a nightmare and the 4 system exactly the opposite.  Put parameters into the 4 and let it do it's thing with the advantage of being able to make adjustments as I want.  Just sayin'...

https://www.edelbrock.com/edelbrock-pro-flo-4-efi-kit-35960-for-ford-fe-390-428-engines-35960.html

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Build Literature
« on: August 05, 2020, 05:47:38 PM »
Thanks for the replies & info.

The remote filter/cooler install was carefully done and the flow paths triple checked.  Just went out to the car and checked again - routing is good.

Thrust bearing looks good too.

Next build: 
Will use a Precision Oil Pump blueprinted HV pump. 
Will open up the oil pump route from the pump to the filter adapter.  Any specific do's and don'ts with this?
Will restrict rocker oil feed on Edelbrock heads with Precision Oil Pump restrictors.  Any specific do's and don'ts with this?
Will use hydraulic roller lifters again and won't make any lifter bore modifications.
Will use the remote oil filter/cooler setup again - routing will again be checked per Canton instructions.
Will reuse repaired Canton Road Race Series 15-874 oil pan.  Had used screened windage tray before - would louvered be better for my use?
Will reuse mechanical and electric oil pressure gauges.  (Electric gauge is part of the dash setup I'm using.)
Will probably use a Scat stroker rotating assembly. 
    Optimal main bearing clearance? 
    Optimal rod bearing clearance? 
    Optimal thrust bearing clearance with standard transmission and street/autocross/road race application? 
    Optimal bearing manufacturer/material?
Will replicate camshaft specs and reuse other induction/exhaust/accessory drive/etc components. 

This is not intended to be a max performance setup, I don't have buckets of money to throw at it, will be street driven with operational HVAC, and will go to my daughter when I check out.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Build Literature
« on: August 04, 2020, 08:43:55 PM »
Some background:

Just installed a remote oil filter and oil cooler and after the install had lower oil pressure. 

Got four laps in with good temp, oil pressure 35 psi, ran strong, no noise.  Started down straight and about at pit road entrance got a loud pop with smoke coming out from hood. Maximum RPM that day was 5836.

Took block apart and found the two rods/pistons that let loose (#2 & #6) did so without a problem as a result of valves contacting pistons - no valves contacted any pistons.  #2 & #6 - The rod bearings are gone and the bearing mount surface is black, as in, they were really hot from rotating on the journal without a bearing.  One is still on the crankshaft and the block (original to car) is junk.  But like I said - no noise or indication that there was a problem.  Main bearings and other rod bearings are good.

Unbolted cam gear and found sheared off gear pin.  All the pushrods and rockers are okay. There's lots of bronze filings in the oil filter and the cam is stuck in the block.

Attempted to get cam out - put slide hammer to it and wouldn't budge. Turned block upside down and found chunk of wrist pin locked between cam lobe and block.  Punched out wedged piece of wrist pin and cam rotated easy.  Cam bearings in good shape. 

Possible sequence?: rods let go after bearings cook out (no/not enough oil?), wrist pin gets between lobe & block, cam locks up and shears cam pin with crank still going.

How the hell did no valves hit pistons with the end result of push rods & rockers untouched?!!! "Lucky" I guess.

This is the Eagle rotating assembly that was used: 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-158004160

Edelbrock ProFlo4 EFI, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. custom Comp Cams cam (.622/.617 lift, 113 lobe separation, & 228/234 duration), valve springs, roller hydraulic lifters, Harland Sharp rockers, Canton oil pan & windage tray, Melling HV oil pump, ATI harmonic balancer, Canton remote oil filter adapter with a Mishimoto cooler.  TKO-600 Tremec with an aluminum Science Friction flywheel and an Atomic Twin clutch.  The accessory drive system is a Billet Specialties assembly and the headers are modified Hooker Super Comps that exit to a custom 2.5" exhaust system.

The block assembly was machined, balanced, and assembled by a local shop that I trust four years ago.  There's less than 100 hours on this engine.  The weekend before the track event my wife & I took a 90 mile cruise with no noise or problems.

I understand that 35 psi oil pressure isn't optimal, but oddly began with the remote oil filter/cooler install.  Had it to do over I'd disconnect the the remote setup, put a filter on the engine , and run it to see what the pressure is.  Hindsite is 20/20...

That's why I want the build literature. (and any other help)

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Build Literature
« on: August 04, 2020, 01:38:08 PM »
Thanks guys!  Ordered Barry's two books.  Already know what induction/fuel system's going on it - Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI.  Had it on the engine before and thought it did really well.  Actually know pretty much how it's going together - just need to make sure it doesn't cough a rod again.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Build Literature
« on: August 03, 2020, 08:32:23 PM »
Barry's two books and Jay's are great.

Titles?  Where to find them?

Not looking to build a monster - street & occasional track car.

13
FE Technical Forum / Build Literature
« on: August 03, 2020, 05:18:07 PM »
June was a tough month.  Finally got our GT500 on the track (Blackhawk Farms) and proceeded to blow it up - and I have no intention of repeating this disaster.

Are there any recent publications on best build/construction practices for FEs?

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