Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - dcm0123

Pages: [1] 2
1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 30, 2022, 01:19:54 PM »
They are both the same.

It is probably not a good idea to change what the distributor came with. If you use a stronger pin, instead of breaking the pin you may break the gear or cause further damage such as the cam gear.

https://www.huyett.com/products/fasteners/pins/spring-pins

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Distributor Gear Roll Pin Broke
« on: May 28, 2022, 07:06:34 PM »
Had a problem with my 64. Was a piece of valve stem seal in the pump which caused the distributor shaft in the SBF to twist then break.

OEM 1964 Ford Pick up screen had a safety flap in it which would open if the screen clogged. If yours has one, you may want to replace it with a conventional screen.

If you take the lower end apart, now would be a good time to also remove the timing cover and replace the timing chain setup if you have a nylon gear. As noted in a previous post the nylon teeth covering cracks off and can end up in the pump.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: Installing tranny, won't go in all the way
« on: February 23, 2022, 09:16:42 PM »
If there is concern of a problem I would put the transmission in neutral, ask someone to push in on the clutch and see if you can turn the disc by pushing on the edge with a screw driver before starting.

If it does not spin easily you may be overloading the pilot bearing or something in the transmission. Take it apart before you ruin it.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Valve stem wear
« on: October 06, 2021, 08:27:47 PM »
As 67xr7cat suggested, look at the valve train geometry.

Check the witness mark the rocker makes on the valve stem tip as shown in the attachment. Sorry but I do not remember where I found the process which shows how to do this. It will help you determine if you have a problem with the geometry.




5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Mustang FE motor mounts
« on: August 03, 2021, 08:49:37 PM »
Was installing Rockauto OEM style mounts and the rubber de-laminated from the metal plate as I was readjusting the engine to bolt it in. I would avoid OEM style.



I installed a similar style as the person who started the post and had no problems. Nothing to de-laminate if your foot slips off the clutch.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Freeze Plugs and cam and oil plugs
« on: July 03, 2021, 07:53:33 PM »
Permatex #1 as several have mentioned.
If there is a chamfer on the hole in the block for the freeze plugs you want to drive the plug in so the outer edge of the plug goes past the chamfer. Otherwise it may pop out when you do not want it to.

7
What cam and lifters are you running?

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker spacing
« on: April 28, 2021, 10:35:07 PM »
Sorry I misunderstood what you were asking.
Do you have an OEM system with springs between the rockers to keep them in position on the shaft? If so, you do not need to set the spacing.

If not then you should review what the manufacture recommends. An example from Sharp below lists the side to side clearance at .008-.012 is attached.

www.harlandsharp.com/instructions/4006BKE%20webpage.pdf




9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker spacing
« on: April 28, 2021, 09:44:58 PM »
You add spacers under the pedestals to correct the geometry of the rocker system so the rocker arm contacts the tip of the valve in the proper location.

You change push rod length to change preload on the lifter.

I assume you are running hydraulic lifters. If you had so much preload you bottomed out the plunger (piston) in the lifters, you would have significant valve overlap and a poor idle.

If your idle is OK, I would look at other issues which could influence the amount or quality of oil at the bearings and verify the bearings were installed properly to start with.

If you are concerned you have to much preload you should buy an adjustable push rod with the same diameter balls on the tip which your engine requires. It is used to determine the proper length push rod you need.
With the cam set in the proper position you install the rod loose then increase the length so you take up all the free play but do not preload the lifter. You remove it and measure the length of the rod. Then add to the measurement the amount of lifter preload you want. Preload for conventional lifters is .030" to .040". Then you order rods of the correct length. Someone just posted NAPA sells push rods which are .03 longer or shorter than standard for $5 each.

If you measure the existing rod and someone installed the wrong length you may still have the problem even if you install a rod .03" shorter. The push rods these engines require do not have holes in them because the rockers are lubricated through the oil feed holes in the head.

The difference in preload between hot and cold should not cause a notable change in clearance/preload.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Overheated fresh rebuild
« on: April 05, 2021, 09:47:56 PM »
Try a compression check to see if you burned any valves. If it is running good you probably did not damage the engine.

Did you push the outer edge of the plug in just past the edge of the hole or the chamfer if one is present? I try to go about 1/32" further in.
Did you use a sealant around the plug before installing? I typically use Permatex #1 which is a hardening sealant.

I would replace your radiator cap unless it is new.
Never reinstall a plug. If it goes in to far, remove and throw it away.

They make expandable rubber plugs if you can not access the plug without pulling the engine.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Advice needed on buying old core engines
« on: March 13, 2021, 10:16:51 PM »
If the engine rotates, take out a plug and use a long thin screw driver or welding rod to help you measure the stroke.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: flex fans
« on: June 07, 2020, 09:44:46 PM »
The last flex fan I had was on a 1976 full size Ford.  A piece of the Ford OEM fan flew off when I rev'd the engine standing next to it.

Plastic and metal flex fans will both fatigue over time which can create a safety hazard. I use rigid fans, thermal clutch and electric. Preference is a large diameter, high CFM, electric with a proper shroud to pull air through the entire radiator. You loose a lot of cooling capacity if you install a round fan on a square radiator without the proper shroud.
 
If you go electric, install a heavy duty relay, not the one in a plastic shell about 1" in size with push on terminals. The plugs ans wires these come with are only suitable for 20 amps.

Installed a conventional thermal clutch on a 69 Mustang with a 390 to keep it original. Was not able to find a heavy duty clutch which fit because the space for the clutch is very limited.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: 390 still using oil
« on: April 16, 2020, 07:25:40 PM »
Do you have a working PCV system?
Mine was doing the same after the rebuild until I installed one.
Pulling a vacuum under the pistons helps keep the oil from going past the rings

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thrust Bearing Woes
« on: February 24, 2020, 09:06:27 PM »
What oil pressure are you running at idle and about 2500 RPM when hot?

Were the two bearings shown in the lower picture from the same journal? Very different wear patterns which is why I ask.

The lines on the bearing maybe from the debris you saw in the oil.

Were the oil passages of the block and crank cleaned after machining?



15
FE Technical Forum / Re: wont start
« on: February 15, 2020, 10:04:01 PM »
Do  have points and condenser? If so, replace the condenser.
Not sure if the MSD set up has one.

Pages: [1] 2