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Private Classifieds / Re: Cast Iron Headers
« on: March 24, 2024, 06:11:47 PM »
Can you send pictures to 515 291 zero seven 07. Thanks
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My favorite comment. And good adviceIt is easy to understand you are offended by the shortblock comment, but maybe....just maybe, you were getting good advice, even if you don't want to hear this advice.Make sure you have a spare shortblock.not looking for s.a. comments like this.do you say the same thing to the big dogs shooting for 900-1000 hp? no,i have noticed you are polite to them. i may not be a big dog,im low buck,but i take my FEs seriously.i have been running them for 40+ years. i plan on staying small with the nitrous but i know what the possibility's are. thanks for the other replies.i will remember to check the plugs,they should look close to new after a pass is what i heard
The learning curve is pretty high when it comes to NO2. I have lost count at the number of blown engines at the drag strip, or on the street, by those who were CERTAIN they had all their ducks in a row, only to find out they did not.
There are signs to look for, and sounds to listen for, but it seems many want the set up to be right based more on what they have been told, rather than verifying it is right based on what their tune is telling them....and often comes the boom...at which point the extra shortblock is required.
Timing alterations under spray are critical...get them right and verify they are working properly.
Fuel management is critical under spray....get it right and verify.
When you are at the track attempting to make your run...pay effing attention and stop when it does not sound right.
We have all heard the new NO2 guy in the burnout box with the popping, sputtering, fire out the pipe engine that is screaming "No, it's not right yet, check a few things"
Followed by the starting line sputtering rev and loading of the converter.
Followed by the green light full throttle launch that lasts about 18" with the big underhood fire and subsequent BANG.....and now it is lunch time because the starting line needs to be cleaned and prepped again.
I came up with a S scratch nov 66 4 lug bottom end large dist.hole block that is a 4.08 current bore block. 13/64 drill biting appears to be a 428 block bored bored 390 use or the 391 also had scratches in the back?Gaugster,many years ago I was inspecting a 69 Cylcone GT R code for possible purchase.I noticed that it had the mirror image 105 block and asked about it,the owner who claimed to be the original owner and had receipts dating back to 1969 though I never saw the original registration with his name,claimed that the engine had been replaced under warranty in 1974 and that D3TE and D4TE 391 truck blocks were being used as service replacements by then according to what he dealership service manager had told him.I don't know how much truth there was in this fairy tale but am relating what he told me,I do know some 391 truck blocks were cast with thicker walls by using the 428 jacket cores,I have personally seen a couple that had the the 428 cast in the bottom of the water jacket,so its something to keep in mind when you tear down and inspect.If by chance you do find the 428 cast in the bottom of the water jackets and get the block sonic checked please post the results.The way I remove core plugs is I have a tire iron that has the lug wrench end cut off and I use that as a punch at the edge of the plug to drive one side in as it starts turning grab the edge with channel locks and pull it out.
Never seen a MCC 105 block with 428 water jacket cores. Considering that MCC could not use the DIF cores and had to make all new ones I would tend to believe those who were there and have said all they made was 390 type blocks. Many of them came with the large distributor hole and the oil return drilled. If going into a light duty truck they would use a bushing in the distributor hole and plug the oil return.
I know some say you can bore the MCC blocks out to 428 size. If you get a block with no core shift may be safe, but I would not believe for a minute that it was cast with 428 cores. There are a few 391 blocks that had the 428 water jacket cores, but all I've seen or heard of came for DIF and seems a 1968 casting date is common. Also have heard of some passenger car 390's that turned out to be a 428 block with a 4.05" bore. They all have had the C scratch. Considering Ford had a strike in 1968 that screwed up production may have something to do with it, but who knows...
One nice thing about the 105 MCC blocks is they all have the crows foot main webbing. Bad thing is they tend to crack at the oil passage to oil the heads. Something to check for. If cracked can be sleeved with a piece of tubing.
Removing core plugs, I just knock them in with a hammer and chisel, grab the lip with vise grips and pry them out.
I had a multi year,multi seal rear main leak. The “fix” came after a refresh due to a broken cam.are you using a pcv system or just breathers? Pcv is supposed to help with oil leaks- cant hurt.
I can only tell you what I did and going on 3 years I’m just now getting oil on the outside of the pan,but no drips yet.
My feeling was the leak is from the three surface block/head/intake junction . My last head install right at the junction I put a dab of sealant on both sides of the head gasket at all four corners as well as top and bottom of the intake manifold gasket then of course the front and rear “China wall”. This is only right at the junction to the China wall.
Also when I installed the intake I did the same at the valve cover rail,both sides of gasket.
For 2 year the outside of the engine was oil free,like I said it’s come back a bit.
I’ve had valve cover gaskets leak too with oil around the plugs and around the back of the heads.