I have this setup as well, and I'll be running mine with a roller cam.  Hope to have it running later this summer.  I called Edelbrock and got the same info about the mellanized gear, they told me it will work with an aftermarket roller cam (I hope so).

I'm a bit bummed that they told me there is no planned support for forced induction.  It seems like they could offer an "advanced/buyer beware" menu to allow the additional functionality (maybe even sell an add on license).

The kit includeds the distributor and the intake so it seemed like a fair deal, based upon the price.  Good luck My427stang, keep us posted.


Dan

I have an old Volvo that I recently put a new fan clutch on.  I switched to the "heavy duty" version of the clutch, but I think what I'm about to tell you is something to consider.

The old fan clutch seemed to work fine and also had plenty of drag, but I was replacing all of the cooling system parts so I went ahead with it.


When the car has been idling in traffic on a warm day at a stop light, the sound that the fan makes as I take off is very very noticeable.  The fan is exactly the same, the only difference is the clutch.  It sounds like a truck.  It moves that much more air.

If your vehicle is hot and you can't hear the fan really moving the air when you rev it (more air movement than when it was cool), then maybe the clutch is toast or it's not getting hot enough to activate.  My fan clutch needs to get pretty hot.  I don't have a temp gauge with degrees on it (it's factory), but it needs to really get warm before it really wakes up.

Once up to a decent speed the fan quiets down on my Volvo - and I believe that exactly how it was designed to work.  Driving gives enough airflow through the radiator that the clutch cools off (along with the coolant) and the clutch becomes free wheeling (or closer to it).

Is your radiator getting as hot as the engine itself?  Can you get a BBQ temp probe into the fins to see what it is reading?  The coolant on the hot side of your radiator really should be close to what it's running at near the temp sender in the engine.  If the radiator isn't getting hot that's a big problem.

I hope you find the issue, best of luck.

Ok, I’ll do the stroker 445.  I’ll take it in to my local shop and get it prepped.  Recommendation on pistons and compression ratios?  This is my “fun” vehicle that sees towing duty.

So an eagle 428 crank is only a little over $400?  Would I need the external balance flex plate with this crank https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-104283980?

Here's a link to the external balance flex plate: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-z242.   Worth doing?

Thanks Blykins - I'll get it mocked up and see what it looks like.  I'll take measurements and pictures.  Unfortunately for me I only have a lathe but not a mill :-( so if I need something milled I'll have to outsource it.  I really would like to get a mill at some point though.  It sounds like my cam won't be ready until next week.

Well I ordered some of those Trick Flow heads, I guess we'll see where that gets me.  I won't be doing the stroker this year but perhaps next year.  At this point I just hope for something a little bit better than what I had.  I guess I'll need to get it assembled figure out what pushrods I'll need.  I ordered that compcams roller rocker setup also so I should have some degree of adjustability.  I really want to get this thing back on the road quickly...I miss driving it.  I'll post back with updates about what worked and what failed.

Hello,  I'm completely new to FE engines.  I have a 1971 F250 with a 390 engine, which was rebuilt prior to me purchasing the truck.  I decided to do some upgrades before I take the truck on some family vacations towing a 24 foot camper.  I did find that the truck has a 3.5 something rear gear (can't remember how I found it, I think I read a tag with the info) and a C6 transmission.  I want to save this truck and pass it down to my son, so I decided that I could spend some money on it to jazz it up a little.  I purchased the new Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI system, headers, Hughes XTM towing torque converter, and some misc upgrades like a classic auto air AC system.  I decided to pull the front end off and yank the motor so that I could clean up the frame a bit and handle some rust on the inner fenders and install the torque converter.

The previous owner told me that an "RV cam" was installed but there are no specs at all.  Since I'm going to have the engine out I thought I'd upgrade the cam...and a friend of mine at work is retrofitting an LS into his old Chevy truck.  He was getting a new roller cam and so I thought I would also.  I purchased a cam and lifter kit from the Lunati website.  The cam is a small roller cam and the specs are:

Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/270
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 211/219
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .559/.559
LSA/ICL: 112/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1600-5600
Includes: Cam & Lifters (#72336-16)
Part Number: 20330710LK

I've done cam swaps before this in other engines (Chevy) but they were small flat tappet cams.  After the purchase I realized that I didn't know JACK about FE engines and that I had no business buying a cam when I don't know anything about FE valve train.  I just purchased two books: Ford FE Engines: How to Rebuild and How to Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines (Performance How-To).  I'm going to read those books and see if I can figure out what parts I need to buy or what machine work is needed to run this cam.

I'd like to get in contact with some folks who know FEs and get opinions on where I should go next.  I tried to call Survival but I didn't have any luck getting through (I'm in PST timezone though, so maybe I need to call earlier).

Could anyone offer a kind word of advice to someone who needs training wheels with FE engines?

At least I didn't commit the biggest sin and stick and LS in it :-)

Best Regards,

Dan