TomP , if you're really looking for a Porsche transaxle, I have a 6 speed available.  Shoot me an email, if interested.  If you were just posting strictly for humor/wow info, that was definitely a WOW auction!

I was going to build GT40 replica.... someone says a Porsche transaxle will work.... what about this one? Is that a good price?

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/gearbox/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-05-29

Definitely fabricate a shield or screen, but don't worry about driving in bad weather.  Lots of air cooled Porsche 911's have factory engine oil coolers mounted in the fender well.  It's not a problem for them.  Don't see why it would be for you.

Good job being creative.

Thanks for the comments. I will work on some sort of shield but for now just going to admire my work. I do tend towards overkill and it will be interesting to read the temperatures and see how often the fan turns on. See my undated build thread for the progress.

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=9507.msg107632#msg107632

Tremec's website lists the same torque capacity, 600 lb ft.

Are they stronger than the regular TKO

Good, detailed tip. Thanks!

Have you tried www.searchtempest.com?  It does a google search of craigslist ads within X miles of a zip code.  It took me a few minutes to figure out but works pretty good.  Start by putting in the search terms using google's syntax.  E.g.:

1964 ford "galaxie" | "galaxy"

Put in your zip code, and select how many miles you want to search in.  Leave this kind of low to start with, as it's easy to get too many nuisance hits until you pare down your search criteria.  I suggest clicking on the "Filters" option, and selecting Search Titles Only.  This gets rid of a bunch of dealer ads where they put every conceivable keyword in to get hits.  Click the search button and you'll get a bunch of cities listed below, as it searches all these CL sites around your zip code.  Click the Open All button.  It will open a bunch of tabs (might have to allow pop-ups), one per city/area, with the results for that location.  Now just go through the tabs one by one.  There should only be a screenful or so for each site.  You can close the tabs as you go through them.  Ctrl-W works for me.  You just have to experiment with it.  If you get a bunch of irrelevant matches, adjust the search terms.  I think you can put in stuff with a minus in front to exclude those words.  If the results look okay, you can increase the distance to search from your zip.  It will open more tabs when you click Open All.

Pat

Your combination is intriguing.  I was wondering if a 1.888" Honda journal would have been necessary to obtain clearance, but you did it with 2".  So do you think 4.6" stroke is feasible with a Honda journal?  Would the further reduction in crank pin overlap yielded by such a combination be of too much of a concern, assuming a desire for longevity for the street with occasional track use (or even regular track use)?

Given a modern billet crank, where would you start to feel uncomfortable, regarding crank pin overlap, for a big inch street/strip engine?  Would you recommend center counterweights?

I suspect it would lose 30-35 hp per point of compression.  Probably around 800 power and 700 torque.  I am thinking real serious about doing one like that for my Hondo Day Cruiser, so I may get to find out.  A dish piston would be more efficient, so losing the dome would work back in the right direction power wise.

Quote from: wcbrowning on September 06, 2020, 05:25:25 PM

What would you estimate output to be if this engine was 10.5:1?

Quote from: CaptCobrajet on September 06, 2020, 01:29:12 PM

This particular one has 2.220 intake and 1.680 exhaust valves.  I didn't intend to turn it real high, so I used the small valves to make torque where it wants to reside rpm-wise.  That makes it real snappy with the inches and 13.5 static.  If I was going to the end with it, more cam, a different set of angles on the valvejob, a 2.300 valve with a little more cross section in the port, would all have added up to quite a bit more power.  It also would change the operating range.  This engine will run for years reliably with a 7K shift point and 7300 through the traps.

The heads flow pretty good.  Nevermind the numbers, as it is only one yardstick of several attributes that matter.

Quote from: frnkeore on September 06, 2020, 12:35:16 PM

Blair, that's outstanding, from a engine that large. 1.67 HP per CI.

Can you tell us the valve size and how much the heads flowed.

Quote from: CaptCobrajet on September 04, 2020, 09:47:09 PM

We ran this unit last week.  There was a little more in it, based on past info, but we ran out of time.  Customer was looking for around 800 hp, and 700-ish torque, so when we got past there, we didn't beat it on it too hard.  I had 31° timing in it, but it had a rather large dome by my standards, and a 72 cc chamber.  I usually run much smaller chambers, with just a bump dome, but these heads migrated from another project, so more dome was needed.  I think another 2.5 ° would have shown more power.  I reckon they can test that in the vehicle.

Cubic inch:                 535    (4.345 x 4.500)
Peak Horsepower:    893 at 6500 rpm
Peak Torque:             794 at 5100 rpm
Compression ratio:  13.5:1
Camshaft:                 .700 lift solid roller
Heads:                     BPE   MR Race Pro Port Edelbrock
Manifold:                 BPE modified BBM Tunnel Wedge
Carbs:                       940-ish cfm modified center squirters, inline with factory style linkage.

What's a good "target" starting line ratio?  Is the target ratio fixed or variable, based upon, for example, vehicle weight and/or engine characteristics?

I seem to remember starting line ratio charts, but, IIRC, they were based soley on crank stroke, with no actual tie in with torque, power curve, vehicle weight, etc.  It seems like these would be important to consider.  Is it just too complicated for a chart or a rule of thumb?  If so, then how to calculate ideal starting line ratio, if one does have the necessary data on hand to take such factors into account (i.e. engine max torque, power curve, vehicle weight, etc.)?

Quote from: 410bruce on August 30, 2020, 09:37:35 AM

Quote from: My427stang on August 30, 2020, 09:25:05 AM

Hard to define soggy, it's a 428 inch engine for a 6000 RPM peak, that's not radical, but it won't be a Lincoln

What are you running for a tranny (wide or close ratio), rear axle, and tire sizes?

I believe it's a wide ratio--was behind a 427 in a Cobra.
Rear gear undetermined at this point. The car currently has an 8" so will need to upgrade to a 9".
Tire size--pretty much whatever will fit comfortably within the stock wheel well.

Guessing here  but as far as rear gear, probably something in the 3.25-3.70 range.

You really need to know, it is a dramatic difference.  A 2.32 gear versus a 2.78 is almost 20% more torque advantage. if you compare 1st gears

A 3.50 rear with a 2.78 gear = 9.73:1
With a 2.32 gear that car needs a 4.19 gear to have the same compound ratio, that;s a huge difference in "soggy"

Also, 3.25-3.70, likely is a bit mild for a stout cam, but 3.70 gets close if the tire is short and you have a wide ratio

How does the RPM 8V Air Gap compare to a Tunnel Wedge, both stock and with similar effort and prep?  Is there a big difference between a Ford TW and the BBM TW?

I have ported the RPM 8V Air Gap, and balanced the runners.  That manifold will out flow a ported MR 8V by a good margin.  I wish Edelbrock would cast one with Ford Carb spacing.  Nostalgia aside, Edelbrock has vastly improved their intakes the last few years.  Joe-JDC