Ive been pretty happy with Progressive on a couple modern vehicles. Just last month I needed to add insurance on my 74 F100, got a quote though Hagerty. I'm now insuring 3 classic trucks for the price of just 1 with Progressive prior with only liability. Ive heard good things with Hagerty so I guess we will see.

Commercial insurance is a whole nother ball game.

This was a bench build. You know stuff from under the bench. So its kind of a hodgepodge of parts.

390 block .030 Square decked and align honed.
390 crank cut .010-0.010, FM mains King rods. Had trouble getting end play.
360 rods good prep ARP bolts
Used forged TRW pistons, tops faced, then a step dish added .005 deck height to outer rim. Best measurement guess was around 10cc
Steam engine rings
Balanced by local machine shop.
D2 heads Crafy cnc ported, CJ valves valave job by Blair. Cut on all 3 sides just to clean up.
Fel pro 1020's
Used ED RPM with some port work, blocked crossover (not the best port work but an attempt was made)
Reground and previously ran cam .500 lift, 220/220 flat tappet, 113 sep installed at 107
Comp springs to match, comp retainers/locks
Used rockers OEM non adjustable, pin honed for oversized shafts, heavy wall. Shimmed .045 for better geometry.
Manton 3/8" pushrods, various lengths.
Holley 3310 780CFM (early version) 1" 4 hole wood spacer (to help with heat soak running errands)
Recurved Duraspark with MSD Digital 6
Cheap o Flowtech long tubes, 1-3/4" primary, Full 3" exhaust to Borla straight though mufflers dumped in front of axle.
Used M57A FT pump, 1/4 to 5/16 driveshaft from POP. New pickup tube
Canton screen type windage tray. Stock front sump pan.. Thinking about changing pan to something else. Suggestions?

Compression is a bit lower than the 9.4 to 9.7 goal at an educated guess/calculation of 9.3 but that's ok, just wanted some decent quench. I was trying to be conservative as to run cheap swill 87 octane.. Its a truck and will be used as such.

So whats your guesses on hp??

Barry mentioned 35gph supporting up to 450hp so I should be plenty safe.
 
 I though about making a 3/8 line to the carb but kind of thought it would be waste of effort being the factory outlet on the pump is 1/8npt. Supply side is all 3/8 but it does have to pull from the rear of the truck... Ive kicked around the idea of a new tank anyway, Tanks inc has a solution for an in tank pump for carbs.

No hp goal on this build, just to use some parts I had and make them work together the best I could with the attitude of it will make what it will make. Something a little snotty, fun to drive and dead reliable. 74 F100, C6 convertor 1 step over stock stall 3.73 rear. It's fairly beat up but does have all new floor pans and cab mounts tho, and if never do that again Ill be happy. Just a shop truck. One day when the rust starts poking though some more we might cut it down to a short box and redo the bed sides.

Good suggestion about hooking a trailer up, I do plan on putting a good receiver hitch on it soon as I can build one.

First mock up before cutting pistons and some assembly shots

Go for the Powermaster 9506M. Original design was intent is for 427's with factory cast headers.

Just installed one in a 2wd 74 f100 w/c6 trans. It uses a heavy billet nose piece and is not adjustable, even though some literature says it is. I think this nose also allows for the overall length to be just a little shorter. It is also flipped over so the power wire comes in from the outside towards the frame instead of pointed at block. Also no risk of the adjustable nose coming loose. I plan on making it my go to for wherever a factory won't fit. The factory starter would clear in this application as you know but it sure didn't give much room between the header and power wire. But after test fitting both on the stand I decided to go with the 9605M simply because it looked easier to change if I had a problem.  I did not try to remove the starter with the header installed but there is certainly more room plus the starter is just easier to handle when your crammed in there. 

Really a nicely built unit and I plan to make it my go to first in event of a stock starter not fitting or if I need the extra cranking power.

Thanks for the verification Brent.

I have never used a resistor on a Duraspark box. Maybe to the coil depending on what coil I'm using.


I recently did a complete harness from american autowire for a 78 F100, while they did provide a resistor for the coil, the box receives 12v. I didn't use the resistor for the coil either, just got a coil that didn't need one to keep the wiring cleaner.

My understanding of the Duraspark, the two wires that receive power both 12v, one is key hot the other is hot while cranking, either hooked to the I terminal of the solenoid or even on the same large terminal of starter wire. This wire advances timing, something like 10 degrees for starting.
I have one I keep around with a simplified harness to start random engines and just use alligator clips and I can never which wire is which. They will run fine either way. I took timing light to it once to verify this hooking one up at a time and starting the engine but don't remember how much it was.

This is based on Duraspark II or blue strain. I could be wrong but I don't think the distributor cares, as mentioned the 75-76 truck Duraspark distributor is the one I always use, no matter what box i.e. MSD, Mallory or Duraspark.

7-10 psi on the acetylene. Never go over 15psi as acetylene becomes volatile. Also an acetylene tank must be used standing straight up. 30-35 on the oxygen, tank doesn't care which way it lays. These pressures are for general cutting, they can be adjusted up or down depending on what cutting tip size you use or for the brazing tips. Besides some leaking seals not much to worry about.

With that said, that is an older model that does not have the anti flash back valves built into the handle. No big deal but you need to be sure to have some either coming into the torch or at the regulator. I prefer at the regulator.

Yes! That is exactly what I'm looking plus extra! Thank you sir.