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Messages - SSdynosaur

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All of the side windows can be duplicated from flat Lexan stock (0.250 nominal). That won't work for the rear window due to the compound curves on that piece. The originals from DST/Ford were fabricated from a butyrate-type plastic but I'm unsure of the exact method employed for the rear. The Lexan flat stock is easy to cut and shape using the original side glasses as patterns and should not be prohibitively expensive. Good luck.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil pimp mount bolt size
« on: July 01, 2022, 01:10:07 PM »
You may wish to consider that Precision Oil Pumps sells an ARP stud kit to replace the standard cap screws, originally, used by Ford

I recall, '59-'60up era, that when Standard Oil first released the Atlas Bucron Tire it was a "super" premium tire and came with a 50K mile warranty covering "tread wear". Don't misunderstand, they were expensive, very expensive, but they had better dry traction on acceleration than anything previously available. The Standard Oil Dealers soon discovered that some customers returned for tread wear warranty after, as little as, one week's service time. As I recall, the "free race tire" warranty only lasted approximately six months before it was discontinued.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Gaskets
« on: April 29, 2022, 08:20:12 PM »

I'm curious if the headers you use have the sealing bead around the port, or are they flat? The sealing bead seems like they would tend to warp the sealing surface when the "ears" are tightened down, at least when using no gasket. Just guessing at that though.

My flanges were water jet from .250 thick material and TIG welded completely on the inside and gap welded on the outside with a surface mill for final. Please understand that these headers are competition only and from inception they were intended to mount directly to the head. I would not suggest this method for the street in any way.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Gaskets
« on: April 29, 2022, 10:07:51 AM »
Mike, very nice project. I am an NHRA/NMCA FE racer utilizing aluminum heads in SuperStock. I do not use any gaskets or sealer, but, my headers have only the vertical bolt pattern and were constructed with .250 thick flanges with flatness checked after welding. This was/is my first attempt at running headers without gaskets and I can say that I have been pleasantly surprised at the quality of sealing after using this process for the past 10 years; previously I always used the Mr.G "super" exhaust gaskets, separated into 8 individual pieces. I also use the ARP SS 3/8x1, 12pt. 5/16" wrench-head bolts but on an FE it takes about 10 different 5/16" wrench configurations to complete the job. Good luck, looking forward to your first race.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Lower hose
« on: March 24, 2022, 09:40:42 PM »
I have done the Auto Parts storeroom search for a lower hose for my 64' Fairlane (FE) and found the answer contained within the lower hose, formed-to-fit, for a 2003/04, F350 Super Duty with a 6.0 diesel. My purchase was a Gates#22779 which turned out to be excessively long for my application and I needed to trim approximately 1 inch off only one end but both inside diameters were correct for the lower rad. outlet and WP inlet. Although my application is Fairlane the situation is very similar. Good luck.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ghosted by Jerico
« on: March 16, 2022, 12:53:10 PM »
True. He runs a Jerico 5speed that has an internal "handcuff" in place of a forward gear which results in a 4speed trans in a 5speed case. Ray, along with Charlie Wescott, were some of Jerico's original testers when they were attempting to counter the Liberty Extreme 4speed in SuperStock.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ghosted by Jerico
« on: March 06, 2022, 04:47:58 PM »
It wouldn't change the maintenance problem since the ratio spread percentages would remain the same as a 4speed. Additionally, you would have invested approximately $1100, or more, per trans for no benefit if you ran it as a 4speed instead of a 5.

I'm not certain about the exact machining configuration of your particular intake, but using the three interior bolt -down locations of the intake you could fab a 3/16 to ¼ thick contact plate for the cylinder head face, insert a ⅜ cap screw through the intake bolt hole while threading a flat washer and nut onto the screw in the space between the manifold and head. Holding the nut from rotating, run the ⅜ cap screw in until it touches the fabricated plate on the cylinder head with the nut/washer firmly against the underside of the intake manifold. Set up all three positions on one side of the intake and "slowly", using the bolts as jacks-turning no more than a ¼ turn at a time lift the intake enough to break the Right-Stuff seal. Method is simply a general description and may need to be adjusted for individual characteristics of your particular manifold. I think you will be amazed how easily it comes off when the pressure is applied slowly and evenly. To me, driving in shims or wedges is just a prelude to disaster, but you are not asking for opinions. Good luck.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ghosted by Jerico
« on: March 03, 2022, 03:37:32 PM »
Thanks for the info. Liberty promised that it was a unknown problem when I brought it to him and he would get it fixed.  I tried multiple iterations of shift dog counts (all at my expense, I might add) and all it did was make matters worse. Actually, the highest shift count achieved was with a 3-dog setup that Liberty said would never work but it was the only one he had that I hadn't tried. I tell you this so you won't be drawn into their revenue machine when the 4 speed begins to have problems. My trans were both built with 5-dogs; he had me try 6 and when that reduced the shift count by almost 30%, he suggested 7. I requested 4 and the answer was, he didn't like making those because that's what his competitor used and I already told you the 3-dog story, but I insisted on the 3 and, somewhat, improved durability. The "company" line was that the original design had 3-dogs (5 speed trans) and Greg Anderson requested they try 5-dogs to reduce maintenance frequency and they switched all production to 5-dogs, based on Anderson's satisfaction. Again, the results are based on 5 speed applications in an ultra-light weight combination. The racers using 4 speed trans will all tell you (if truthful) that the two trans act like two, completely different, parts based on the ratio drop benefit derived from the extra gear and starting line weight of the application. The almost unbelievable fact is that, as a driver you can actually feel that the 3 dog setup shifts easier and quicker but I've only used it on 2nd and 3rd speed. No need for 1st and 4th is completely different animal and pretty reliable at 50 to 65 shifts before needing service. Breaking any internal part is almost none existent but 4 speed dog wear can be an issue. Good luck.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ghosted by Jerico
« on: March 03, 2022, 11:43:51 AM »
I'd rather not disclose the exact rpm shift numbers on an open forum due to the negative conversations generated but let's just say high, very high. If you viewed Ray Paquet's 2021 Indy YouTube interview by Evan Smith, the numbers he stated are ballpark to where we are all operating.
Liberty recommended Mobile 1, 75W-90 when I purchased my trans in 2010 and that's all I've ever used without the slightest evidence of lubrication failure. I recently noticed that Liberty is now marketing their own branded gear lube so I assume that is, likely, the present recommendation.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ghosted by Jerico
« on: March 01, 2022, 08:39:59 PM »
I already sense the flames but if you have a choice between a Liberty Extreme 4 speed and a 5 speed clutchless, choose the 5 speed. I race in NHRA SuperStock with a Liberty 4 speed clutchless for the last 10 years and can verify that maintenance on a 4 speed is, exponentially, higher than a 5 speed. The problem is universal to any manufacturer's 4 speed clutchless; the gear ratio spacing is simply so wide on a 4 speed, by comparison to 5 speed spacing, that gear rpm equalization damage during the upshifts accelerates to the point that 3rd speed dogs and slider require service (replacement) between 12 to 20 full rpm shifts. This is NOT an issue with the 5 speed boxes, as SuperStock users report that they easily go 100 runs without requiring service. You will hit the B.S. wall when you attempt to verify what I am reporting from mine and several other S/S racer's 4 speed experiences. Don't misunderstand, my Liberty Extreme is a brute and this is the only issue I have ever had with his trans. Additionally, don't miss the fact that a ProStock car is 2350lbs, requiring a lot less 1st gear ratio than a 3300lb SuperStock car which calculates into causing those gear spacing statements made earlier. Choose wisely, good luck.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Installing tranny, won't go in all the way
« on: February 23, 2022, 07:30:47 PM »
As soon as I began using trans, other than TL, I realized the interference you described could become a problem. I chose to reverse the install of the bolts; heads on the outside of the bell. Using countersunk machining into the flat surface of the bell along with the appropriate screws completely eliminates the future possibility of interference, regardless of whose case design you utilize.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Street Roadster Roll Cage
« on: February 18, 2022, 12:12:25 AM »
Currently, the only Cobra I'm aware of that is running NHRA SuperStock and SS/GT belongs to John Stock, based out of Ohio and his cage/roll bar resembles a funny car-type enclosure around the driver's upper body. I believe John's car is a Kirkham, prepared for NHRA racing by Pat and Andy Kronenbitter of PK Race Cars, based near Columbus, OH.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Street Roadster Roll Cage
« on: February 17, 2022, 07:06:09 PM »
I have never built one but, perhaps, some of the confusion comes from the fact that the rule book pictured street roadster cage (roll bar) design assumes a single occupant oriented in the center of the vehicle chassis; contrasted to an offset driver.

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