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Messages - Nightmist66

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: oil gallery
« on: March 13, 2024, 01:01:19 PM »
I've used a 1/2"-20 set screw before with success. Just go very slow with the tap/not all the way through, so there is a slight shoulder in the threads for the screw to stop at. A couple drops of red loctite for assurance. I do use a 1/4 NPT plug with the aforementioned extended length tap now. Works like a charm. I used the "NPT" tap with a extreme press. "NPTF" plug from McMaster Carr. Those plugs sit slightly further in than a "NPT" in the same hole. Plug seals just dandy as well.


2
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: March 13, 2024, 12:30:15 PM »
seriously no inside paint anymore.  I’m building a HP diesel and was considering it… you must not like what u saw… elaborate plz


I saw some starting to come off in the oil pan when it came off. I did try to scuff the pan some before applying it and I did cure it afterward. The other engine parts looked fine yet, just the oil pan. It was a zinc plated Milodon pan. Sandblasting would be best if doing it again. Oh well.


Mike, yes I've used it before. I don't know if I had a couple bum cans or not, but I was noticing some fine "texture" particles coming out with the paint a d resulted in a slightly bumpy finish. I didn't quit care for it.



3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Dewalt 3/8" impact 20V
« on: February 04, 2024, 09:21:18 PM »
If keeping with the Dewalt 20v line, I would recommend the DCF923B 3/8 impact. Very impressive for the size. I have one at work and once I bought it, I haven't used my Snap-On CT861 again. You may want to shop around. I found a seller on Ebay selling the DCF923B bare tool for $120 and another selling a 2 pack of the powerstack batteries for $85 brand new. Heck of a deal. Just be mindful and use the power settings if needed, because it has plenty of torque to break stuff. It will take lugnuts off easily if not severely overtorqued or extremely rusted.

4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Calliope Engine Project
« on: January 12, 2024, 11:17:15 PM »
Very cool, Jay!

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: ARP lube, anti seize, loctite
« on: January 12, 2024, 11:10:15 PM »
Something I learned recently...maybe everyone knows this but I didn't....

ARP lube is intended to be used between the bolt and washer. Not intended to be used between the washer and the part. It's purpose is to assist in smooth torqueing, so not much needs to be used. Adding excessive amounts of the lube could cause a false torque situation when the lube heats up and runs away.


Yes, in fact some ARP head stud kits come with washers that have a "textured" side to face down and bite into the aluminum head. I personally gave up on ARP moly lube years ago. Once I tried CMD, the moly just seemed inferior in several ways. Just one instance, I am running Erson rockers and the washers for the rocker mounting studs overhang the stands in a few locations, so I had to grind flats on the washers to clear the rockers:

 

Anyway, I need to keep the washers located while torquing. I tried ARP's moly lube and I couldn't keep the washers from spinning for the life of me and I only applied the lube to the top side of the washer. I cleaned it off, put the CMD on the top of the washer(and threads) and as soon as the nut made contact to hold it in place, I could take my hand and whatever tool I was using off and could torque it fully in sequence without it moving in the slightest. One of the best things I've ever used. Wherever ARP lube is called for, I use CMD instead.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: electrical connectors
« on: January 01, 2024, 05:12:36 PM »
Are those the 11 or 12 inch fans nightmist66.



They're 11 inchers, Joe. Spal shroud, Mishimoto fans. Fit my radiator perfectly. Run off of an Autocoolguy pwm controller.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: electrical connectors
« on: January 01, 2024, 09:37:18 AM »
I used a 4 pin square weather pack connector on mine. Very handy when I want to remove and re-install the radiator/fan assembly.





8
I also use PSC-1000 from Tractor Supply. Been using for years in my Harbor Freight tank. Works very well. I did do some upgrades to the tank, but it has the "stock" pump, lol.

9
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 19, 2023, 10:31:15 PM »
Bummer. With 4 sleeves already are you going to sleeve this hole?
Maybe hard block?


I'm weighing options at the moment. Whichever way I decide, I don't think it'll need hard block.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Please Help! Holley Terminator 2x4 mounting issue
« on: November 19, 2023, 11:40:31 AM »
If you wanted to switch throttle bodies, these will fit the tunnel wedge easily. I understand if you want the 4150 look, though. Just throwing it out there.





11
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 16, 2023, 09:09:06 PM »
Thanks, Thor. The paint is Duplicolor cast coat aluminum # DE1650. I was using Rustoleum "professional" aluminum enamel before, but it started getting very inconsistent. One can would be a nice aluminum color and the next would look like a real bright silver like the fake chrome spray paint. I kept going back to the store to get some more, but cans were more "chrome" than aluminum, so I gave up on that color. This was the first I've used this color, but it isn't too bad looking.

12
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 14, 2023, 09:14:08 PM »
I was able to inspect the deck and head gasket a little more tonight. No sign of compression leaking anywhere on the deck or head. Fire ring on the gasket was checked with a micrometer in at least a dozen or more locations. Variance was only .001" total. Even right across from the water ports. Here's the deck:










13
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 14, 2023, 09:03:39 PM »
It’s been awhile but was that an 11.1 pass? 


It was an 11.22. It was the 2nd time to the track with new adjustable rear shocks, less than ideal 50/50's on the front because a new 90/10 failed, and other suspension adjustments to make. So my 60ft was terrible. Ideally, it would have run 10.7 at that mph, but I feel there was more left in it between launch and head wind.

Just curious, was the "7800-8000 RPM" a misprint? Short of a NHRA Super Stocker, or very high end build, that seems like an awful lot of RPM!  And to think I don`t even like going 6500 RPM.


No typo. It has a lot of attention to detail, good clearances, and a healthy stick for a 390 cube engine. Duration is 270+. Of course, the tunnel wedge doesn't mind breathing a little more than a dual plane either. I shifted the last iteration at 7500 comfortably.  Never felt it nose over.

14
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 14, 2023, 01:31:14 PM »
Man, not happy to see this. What was the sonic beef number on the cracked side of number 7? Or is the thickness moot as the unhappy rod caused the piston to crack the wall?

Was there a typo on 335? There must be at least 535 with the parts you have in that mill.

Sucks


I have to recheck, but 2, 4, 5, and 8 had sleeves already from the first go. I checked the others myself after it was bored .035" over and as I recall, the thinnest point was .135" at the bottom of a cyl. on a non-thrust. Average was .140-.150". The 335hp twas a tid bit of sarcasm. The last time it was together it went 123.5mph @ 3650lbs with a strong head wind. I'd be disappointed if this time it was only making 535. Maybe I'll dyno the next time for a hard number. We'll see.

Everything was fine the weekend prior. Oil was still clean, water was full, etc. Happened all the sudden when it was spun up.

15
Member Projects / Re: Putting A Little Pep In My 390's Step
« on: November 14, 2023, 01:23:26 PM »
Look VERY carefully at the head gasket.  Take a mic to the areas around that cylinder to check for clamp load and look for deformation around the bore compared to the other openings.  Check piston to see if it clamped the second ring tight.  I have had a head gasket do some considerable damage in the past.  If it leaks coolant it can cause the cylinder wall to split since water does not compress.  Starts a daisy chain of failures.


I did take a good look-see at the head gasket. No visible issue at the fire ring or water ports. Head was welded pretty good with the copper coat. I haven't mic'd the ring yet, but don't suspect a problem there. I will look. Rings were still nice and free. The piston barely dinged the chamber when the bearing gained clearance. Very small mark that will rub right off. No sign of detonation or pre-ignition on the plug or piston. My gut right now is telling me that cylinder just didn't want to play any more.

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