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Messages - 900HP

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1
The Shelby block is stronger in nearly every aspect. It has solid main webbing with caps that are machine fit the full length vertically with dual side bolts, thicker decks than any other block with head studs that go the full distance and tie into the main bulkheads. They also have full support for the dry installed cylinder liners. But the majority of strength comes from the very thick bulkheads at the main supports. The block is just stronger in every single area.

And Ken, it surprises me that anyone would invest in another block design specifically for the cammer. I'd almost have to assume it would be a low volume deal. Sounds interesting though.

Jay's block is no-longer dry-sleeved.  The bores are large enough and moved far enough that there be water on the other sides of those sleeves :o

2
Drag Week 2015 / Re: Jay's GT500 launching at Indy
« on: September 16, 2015, 12:15:31 PM »
Jay just gave a GREAT interview on the live feed

3
Drag Week 2015 / Re: Drag Week 2015 Registration and Test and Tune
« on: September 14, 2015, 02:02:42 PM »
Congrats Jay!  I happened to catch it on the live feed............... way cool :)

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: AMP EFI clinic for you fuel injected guys
« on: June 17, 2015, 04:53:53 PM »
Neat stuff, do you keep the MS3, bring your own, or are they there as teaching aids?

I am guessing not supplied as a takeaway seeing as they bring 550+ retail.

MS3-pro's will be provided as well as the stimulators for testing and troubleshooting.  Students will need to bring their own laptops on which they will load tunerstudio and megalog viewer onto.  There will be 2 students to an ecu/stimulator that will learn to configure/test/troubleshoot/and tune on including live tuning on an engine dyno and a chassis dyno. 

We are looking into the possibility of offering MS3-pros at a discount to people who have taken the class but haven't figured that all out yet.  MS3-pro retails at $1199. 

Just because we are using the MS3-pro for the seminar doesn't mean that you can't benefit from it if you happen to have a stand-alone from a different manufacturer.  Most of what you will be learning can be used no matter what brand name is on the box.

5
FE Technical Forum / AMP EFI clinic for you fuel injected guys
« on: June 17, 2015, 03:39:14 PM »
AMP EFI Clinic is a hands-on, two day tuning course for end users, dealers and professional tuners practicing installation, configuration, and calibration of a modern engine management system in a *real world* environment with bona fide, competition experienced instructors..  Even if you are new to tuning, this could certainly be your fast track!

Experienced tuner Scott Clark and Engine Masters Challenge builder Mark Dalquist will facilitate the course using an actual Engine Masters competition engine. Each participant will put their hands on, configure and tune an MS3-Pro EMS and will test their calibrations on a live running engine.

From basic configuration and start up to the most advanced features and power management.  Limited to 30 participants. Includes a BONUS session with David Vizard!


Link to registration:  https://ms3prodealer.wufoo.com/forms/rvjltni0mtzs61/


6
Mark,
Since my heads have rectangular exhaust ports which measure 1.375  X  1.937, would there be any benefit to running rectangular tube a certain distance before transitioning to a round tube or are you better to transition to round immediately?
Based on the exhaust port size would you use the slightly larger 1-7/8" or smaller 1-3/4" or do you use thicker wall 1-7/8" to get area similar until first step?

The area of 18gauge 1.875" (1 7/8") tube is going to be really close to your port after you subtract the area of your corner radius.  For STREET use I would do 1 3/4" step to 1 7/8" primary tube.  For RACING use I would do 1 7/8" no-step or possibly 1 7/8" step to 2" even though that's getting on the big side.  Keep the collector at 3" though.

7
Mark,
What would you charge to build a set of headers for this combo?  Looks like you use Stainless? Do you wrap them to reduce engine compartment heat? What do you wrap them with?
Thanks, josh

You probably don't want to go down the route of custom stainless headers as the cost vs. benefit for a street car just isn't there.  It's a whole other story if you are class racing or have a car that you simply can't buy headers for.

That being said for a set of custom stainless 4-2-1 headers be prepared to spend $3500 parts and labor.  I wouldn't wrap them, it just decreases tube life, even with stainless.  If it was a turbo car with lots of heat you'd use 321 or Inconel and wrap them at that point.

8
What does everyone familiar with the FPA-Tri-Y headers think would happen if I was to take my set and modify them with a longer tube straight off of the head flange and then a gradual curve into the existing header, thereby eliminating the tight turn normally there for fitment in cars with shock towers? Would they be adequate for my engine combo?

Barry tried both my FPA's and his Dyno Header on my engine and the results are as follows:

FPA's=540HP@5600,  547TQ@4900

Dyno=553HP@5600,  555TQ@4900

I looked on FPA's website and I can see why they are down on power to the dyno headers, what an awful design.  You are not going to pick up large amounts of power with a header change.  Building the correct header you will make more power everywhere but you aren't going to pick up 50hp.  REAL 4-2-1 headers should look like this:


Or this:



9
On "optimal" headers, I'll go out on a limb here. If our poster (or anyone for that matter) runs a full length exhaust with mufflers, I don't believe one set of headers makes a big difference, minimal at best. That assumes a fairy well-designed yet off-the-shelf header with appropriate sized primary, collector, exhaust pipe and free flowing mufflers.

I don't agree with you on this.  IF the headers are designed correctly they can be made to "ignore" the exhaust system behind them as long as it flows well enough.  It can be as simple as an A/R valve at the collector which is the biggest mistake that I personally made at Engine Master's this year.  Last year we had a nice A/R valve and the engine wasn't affected by the dyno exhaust.  This year there was no A/R valve and the exhaust behind the header drastically affected power. 

Also, a 4-2-1 header properly designed will out-perform a 4-1 header at every rpm you are likely to use.  As rpm band narrows and goes up (think comp eliminator) the advantages of the 4-2-1 become less and less significant.  One more thing about the 4-2-1 header is you will have MUCH better part-throttle drivability and response if it's designed correctly.  Too many people build a 4-2-1 header like a 4-1 header with a different collector and that is not the right way to do it.

Please read the links I previously posted, there is an incredible amount of good exhaust information contained in them.

10
Survival provided the complete custom Hyd. Roller Cam/Lifters so I would have to defer to Barry on the brand of lifters.

If you got the lifters from Barry they are Morel and they are fine.  I was just thinking out loud...........

11
Are those xfi cam lobes?  If so, I would take a long hard look at your valvetrain setup and to be honest, I've picked up 25 hp by using milder lobes.

Thinking more on this.................................... OP, WHAT LIFTERS ARE YOU USING?  I haven't had an issue with XFI lobes, they aren't as aggressive as some think however, if you aren't using the GOOD lifters you are leaving a LOT on the table.  What's the point of having a hot camshaft if the lifter can't keep up with it?

12
On the header thing, please read:  http://www.exhausting101.com/
                                          and:  http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41836
                                          and:  http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=36702

A couple of things about header design:

1) most are too big with too restrictive of bends

2) The header tube does not need to be any larger AREA wise (and often smaller) than the exhaust port it's attached to, at least to start out with.  The primary should start with the same AREA as the exhaust port and then step from there depending on power/rpm/etc

3) 4-2-1's will allow a broader powerband with no loss of peak (when designed correctly) and are easier to package and offer more ground clearance.

4) Primary length is about #7 on the list of importance in header design.  As long as it's in the ballpark it's close enough, the reason for this is that unless you have a 500 rpm powerband, one pipe "tuning" at 100 rpm less than another really doesn't matter.

5) the most important part of the header is the port-match and the bend radius off of the cylinder head.

6) When the area increases the exhaust releases energy as it slows down, this can be seen as heat.  This is why collectors and tight bends are always the hot spots, you are giving up exhaust energy.  Once it's gone you can't ever get it back either. This is why header for header stainless steel will make more power.  It 1) keeps it hotter and 2) doesn't rust so the inside stays smoother. 

7) Anti-reversion steps/valves work very well but most put them at the wrong spot.  The cylinder head is the wrong spot, the end of the system is the correct spot


No header is going to get the op the power he wants.  #1, the lobe separation is too wide, especially considering the compression.  #2, th duration is fine, I just built a 464 inch Buick with 230/236 duration and it peaks at 5900-6000 rpm @ 598 hp.  It has heads that are done nicely (hint hint).  #3) if you need to run that wide of LSA because of your efi system, you need a different efi system.  There is power to be had in electronics too, proper injector size (much bigger than you'd think) injector timing, throttle body size, etc, etc, etc.

13
My thoughts on headers is approaching the ones I have on cams.  The more experience I get the more likely I am to just try stuff & see what happens.  So far I can say that something of at least a short straight run out of the port definitely helps - and is nigh unto impossible in a shock tower car.

My stuff has proven to be MUCH more sensitive to collector length and design than it is to primary features - as long you are in the general rational realm of sizing.  I am also pretty well convinced that some characteristics that show up good on the dyno are not going to be optimal in a car.  The difference is one of running against a load that controls acceleration rate (dyno) compared to running against a variable load while trying to maximize acceleration (car).  Blair has more experience than I do in race car optimization and I would tend to follow his lead there - I've seen some stunningly small choke diameters in use.

Your comments on primary and collector length pretty much repeat what is in David Vizards book; he says on a normal V8 engine (one with a standard crank, not a flat plane crank), the exhaust pulses on the primary are a little fuzzy because of the two cylinders on each bank that fire in succession (4-2 on the right bank, 7-8 on the left).  His claim is that this tends to defeat the purpose of sizing the primary pipe length, and the result is that if all the primaries are in the 30-40 inch range, they will work just as well as if they are all the same length.  On the other hand, he says that normal V8 engines are very sensitive to collector lengths, and that people should spend a fair amount of time and effort playing with those, because there is significant power to be gained there.  Of course, if you attach an exhaust system there is less sensitivity to the collector length.

I'm considering making two new sets of headers for my engine, one where the bends are minimized and the lengths are all in the 30-40 inch range, and one where I keep all the primary lengths at about 33 inches (which will require more and tighter bends), and test them out to see which works better.  I'm also looking forward to trying a "collector comparo" at the track...

Bring that Mustang up here once the engine's done and I'll help you build a REAL set of headers.

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: howards cams
« on: February 24, 2015, 05:58:55 PM »
Well I bit the bullet and bought a Rattler cam from Howards. If it works awesome if not I`ll try another cam next winter. Heres the specs on what I got.adv duration 289/297, dur@.050 235/243, lift is .548/.548 and lobe sep is 109. Needs 9.0;1 comp and 2500 plus stall. We shall see what it does in my 69 390gt motor. I am slowly gathering all the pcs to get it together for the FE race at Beaver.

The "rattler" cams are some of the last lobe designs of the late Harold Brookshire, they should work just fine.  That seems to me to be a bit much camshaft for a 390 unless you are intending to turn it some rpm but it will definitely "sound" good.  With decent heads that should be peaking around 6000+ I would think.  If you really want it to run make sure you get the GOOD hi-rpm roller lifters from Morel, they are worth quite a bit of power.

15
Beautiful engine Barry, very sanitary :D

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