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Messages - Tommy-T

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1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: full spool
« on: March 19, 2024, 01:55:25 PM »
Since this post has gone on for a while I'll add my 2 cents.
I bought from Roush Racing 3 NASCAR Detroit Lockers. They are the nastiest, clickity-clack churping tires lock/unlock at weird times...but tough as nails.
I put one in my Mustang with 19.5X33 tires and a 427 stroker. It worked fine and the car had enough "quirks" that you could hardly tell it was back there.
Installed another in my '87 Jeep Wrangler when I put a 9" in it. That's a whole 'nuther story. It sounds like the stage coach was coming to town around every turn unless it doesn't unlock then it just churps tires. I learned early on that when coming into a long sweeping turn on the road either start coasting before the turn or stay on the throttle through the turn. if one changes his mind mid turn, off then on the gas, a lane change may happen. However cranky it may be, still tough as nails and has seen many years of rock bashing.
I had a pumpkin put together for my Mustang that had a spool with 4.88 gears. I took it to the track and it worked fine. Too lazy to pull it back out I started to drive it around to car shows and such. What I found was that it was much more predictable than the Detroit and drove fine.
I finally pulled it out for 2 reasons. You cannot push a car with a spool by human power if there is even the slightest turn. Secondly, when pulling out of a parking space at a car show it sounds like you're beating a dog to death with all the skreeching and yelping going on.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Battery fuse
« on: January 24, 2024, 01:30:47 PM »
Yes
A 200 amp fuse in the cable to your starter solenoid is plenty.
My Comet is wired like your Mustang. 1/0 cable from the front to back with a 200 amp Mega fuse next to the battery.
Of equal concern is the grounding especially if you've got electric fans, hi amp ignition box, high amp draw starter, or other heavy draws. In the old days we all just welded a nut to the subframe inside the trunk and made a short cable, same size as the cable to the solenoid, and screwed it down.
More modern thinking, especially if an electronic fuel injection system might be in the future, is to run the ground cable, same size as the cable to the solenoid, to the engine block and then to the chassis at the front. Yes, it's cumbersome and heavy to run 2 cables from the front to back of the car. It is amazing to note how poor steel is a conductor of electricity compared to copper or aluminum.
Could help avoid electrical "gremlins" in the future.
Grounds,Grounds,Grounds!

3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 1964 (pre) funny car
« on: January 09, 2024, 07:54:11 PM »
There was drag racing be fore Funny Cars??

Who knew?

Seriously, When NHRA officially made AA/FC a legit class in 1969, my dad would load up the family wagon with us boys and go to the track often.
To a 9 year old boy (me) the world would never be the same.

Like Jungle Jim used to say...Funny Cars are Far Out!!

4
Member Projects / Re: 1964 Comet Blown injected Cammer
« on: November 23, 2023, 11:06:54 AM »
Hi Leny,
Good to see you're driving your Comet.
Mine is driving too, but when it gets below 70*f here in Los Angeles, it's too cold to go outside.

As far as the water/ meth system on your blower, I had a Snow system on my 8-71 blown 454FE in my Mustang. I had plates under the carburetors that had 1 jet under each carb. It had a progressive controller that started injecting a 5lbs. and was full open at 9lbs. It worked fine, never "peppered" the spark plugs, and lasted about 30 gallons of gas before refilling.
With the amount of water you're using be careful of hydrolocking that motor!

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Erson cam specs
« on: October 14, 2023, 01:23:28 PM »
Just a side note, here it is 35 years later and this is the cam that's in my Comet's 428 now.
Not really a single pattern cam because the valve events are different on the intake and exhaust, but pretty close.
Had it ground on a wide LSA so it would play nice with my quad dual M/T intake. Seems pretty snappy!

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Erson cam specs
« on: October 14, 2023, 01:07:54 PM »
I am no camshaft expert.
Actually as of late I consult with Ross and Ken at Oregon cams mostly about cams...although I have purchased 2 camshafts from Brent. I also have a Straub hydraulic roller.

The real reason I'm posting here is that in my earlier days I ran a solid flat tappet similar to that one in a 454FE in my '67 Mustang. Mine was ground on 108LSA and I installed it dot to dot. The car ran low 11's and was quite streetable around town. Shifted it at 6500.
Is the newer dual pattern stuff better? Probably.

I think you should install that Erson cam. It's going to be plenty rowdy for street only driving...but good for street racing.
The cam I'm referring to is the top one in the picture

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Radiators
« on: October 11, 2023, 05:00:50 PM »
Just a couple of random thoughts:
As large a rigid stock type fan as you can fit with a shroud will cool best. A clutch will not make it cool better but will help with horsepower loss of the rigid fan.
The fans shown a couple of posts above are fine if they work good enough for your application.
A straight blade electric fan will always pull more air than a curved blade electric fan at the same size. The curved blade fans only exist because they are quieter.
A paddle blade electric fan pulls even more air but is a lot noisier.
I always try to use the truck style 7" dual belt crank pulley with a 5" dual belt water pump pulley.
I like the Powermaster 477491 Ford G3 1 wire alternator. I run the small dual belt pulley. I run a 2ga charge wire directly to the plus side of the battery and NOT to the starter solenoid. You will need dual v belts with a 3G or the belts will squeal.

There's a lot of things that can help with cooling. Vacuum advance helps, but I personally don't use it. Make sure timing is adjusted properly. Fuel mixture too.

8
Member Projects / Re: '66 Falcon Gasser
« on: August 31, 2023, 01:38:30 PM »
Sounds like a fun project.
Are you using an Econoline axle or a tube axle such as Speedway?

Using a '66 Falcon you can mount an FE and C6 with stock parts. Eliminates some fabrication.

My '65 Comet "gasser" build is in the Members Projects section of the FE Forum under "The sky is falling". Maybe some of that information will be helpful.

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Carb questions
« on: August 27, 2023, 06:26:38 PM »
I like the red/blue fittings and steel braided hose.
Haven't grown out of my Pro Street days.

Can't add a lot to the carb discussion, but a downleg 3310 can be a really sweet carburetor. Many have gone very fast with one.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: one wire alternator recommendation
« on: June 09, 2023, 09:49:32 AM »
Funny I was just on Jegs looking at a 140 amp alternator 1 wire from tuff stuff. What is the benefit of the G3 conversion and what does it entail

This subject comes up quite a bit and has as much controversy as spark plugs or engine oil.
I ran the Powermaster 12SI 100 amp GM 1 wire alternator on a couple of different cars. Part #8002. Fits on the stock bracket with minimal modification. You do have to blip the throttle to make it work. No problems ever.
I only run a voltmeter so the dash light means little to me.
On my Comet I have a Powermaster 1 wire 3G. It's listed in their catalog especially for FE Ford applications. I've never had someone at a car show or the drags tell me I have a Chevy-look'n alternator on my car. Maybe they whisper about it behind my back or maybe they can't tell because I use a low mount alternator bracket.
There are folks who don't like Powermaster products for whatever reason. I personally have never had one of their products fail.

11
My brother has a Blueprintengines motor in his '64 Falcon. He likes it a lot.
They use them a lot on the Engine Masters program on the Motortrend channel.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Oregon solid flat tappet FO-422
« on: May 31, 2023, 02:41:36 PM »
Mrs.-T and myself were just at the Kingman AZ street drags.
They blocked off Route 66 in the middle of town and made a no-prep drag strip. 1/8 mile.
There was a Falcon there with a 433 inch Low Riser with the infamous "D" camshaft.
It ran mid 7's at around 110.
Not bad for outdated old stuff.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac Differential
« on: May 31, 2023, 02:23:13 PM »
This all about bragging rights. How much can I spend.
Put a spool in it. They work fine on the street.
Cheap and way more useful for doing burnouts.
If you are going to turn a corner at high speed with 1200 HP and cheap BFG's.
Put a locker in it. You will need it. You will be sliding.
jmho

I did run a spool on the street in my Mustang with 19.5x33 M/T street tires. It had an Ebay NASCAR Detroit locker before I added the spool.
The spool was much more predictable than the locker in street driving and it drove fine.
I did end up installing the Detroit Locker back in my Mustang.
Thing is, with the spool the tires sounded like a dog being whipped when I'd pull out of a parking space.
The clicking and banging of the Detroit was SLIGHTLY less embarrassing. ;D

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: Eagle crankshaft and rod quality
« on: May 11, 2023, 01:15:12 PM »
I have run the cast Scat at 750+HP, but I would not recommend it.  One of the only ones I had break was at +/-716HP, and it was at #1 rod.
Probably draw the "line" somewhere below that level.
I have had a couple RPM cranks fail.  Some of them were very thin around the lightening holes in the rod journals.
The Scat steel is decidedly better in that respect.
I would recommend steel in anything running a belt driven blower due to the long FE snout, and the leverage at the pulley end.
I also steer toward steel in anything with a high cycle time such as endurance, extended marine use, or road race stuff.

Since you're on here, Barry, I'm starting the Frankenstein 428 with the "holy" Eagle crank I bought from you a while back.
It internally balanced nicely, but man, it sure has a lot of lightening holes drilled into it! Swiss cheese!

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Eagle crankshaft and rod quality
« on: May 09, 2023, 07:17:21 PM »
I know anecdotal information doesn't help much, but here's mine.
I broke the crank in the 8-71 supercharged 454 FE I had in my Mustang. It was a factory 1UB and it snapped off right behind the #1 main.
I wanted to go with the RPM forged crank but the 3.980 stroke crank they offered had the BBC rod journals and I wanted to stay FE size. I also didn't want to use another used Ford 428 crank.
Bought an Eagle cast crank and 5 years later it's still pounding the ground turning that big 8-71.
That same engine is still running the RPM H Beam rods I built the original blown deal with. I will add that all of the RPM stuff I've used, both rods and cranks, need to be touch machined before they can be used.
All that said, I have a question.
I'm building a 482 for my Comet. It currently has a Scat cast crank and I Beam rods in it. I have an RPM forged 4.250 crank on my junk pile.
Is it worthwhile to swap out the cast crank for forged in a 600 horsepower motor?

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