PM replied.

Thanks.

Hello Bruce.

I have done this conversion multiple times with factory parts on 72 and 73 Torino's & Montego's.

I have also researched the Modern Driveline pedal / solution.

The issue with using that pedal and a hydraulic setup is that the power brake booster is in the way. You can remove the power booster and run a manual pedal (different pivot location) and the correct manual disc master cylinder, which they did come from the factory with, or install hydro boost in order to make room for the hydraulic components.

I would never go the hydro boost route, and I have converted to manual brakes from power with no issues.

I do currently have a complete 4 speed setup, along with both manual and power brake pedals, and I can send you pictures of both so you can move the pivot on your power pedal when you cut it down, if you choose to go that way.

Best of luck with your project.

Mike Howard.

Hello Jim.

PM sent on pistons, thanks.

Mike H.

Hello All.

I'm trying to find a set of wrist pin bushing to bush a .912 Piston & Pin onto a .975 Rod, the actual application is 351c pistons onto 400 rod.

I was told Y Block items would work, but can't find any sizing info in my searches.

Any help with on the Y Block dimensions, or an actual bushing part number is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Mike H.

I have a take off from one I converted to a long output shaft, I can post pictures tonight.

Thanks, Mike H.

I have been following this thread and I would like to add some info.

I have been told that Tubular Automotive here in Rockland, MA (was called Tuby Dick's forever) was at one time was a supplier to Crites for their 429/460 swap headers into the 66-69 Fairlane / Falcon chassis.

I believe they were the first to produce that slip fit header application, and that their original design has been copied and manufactured by several other companies since they brought it to market in the early 70's.

They were, and continue to be a relatively small shop that has always been focused on custom built headers for unique one-off applications, not really a high volume manufacturer, and were not able to adequately supply Crites back in that time frame.

I know they were one of the very first suppliers of the Boss 302 & 351c headers to fit into the 65 Mustang chassis with the crossover tubes under the engine.

I have been to their shop at least a dozen times over the years from when I was a kid with my Dad, to a couple years ago, and they were always VERY helpful to us.

Several times I have walked in off the street needing a single piece of tubing or a header reducer, and even searched through their box of "Mistakes" looking for a bend or two.

I would recommend them to anyone.

https://www.tubularautomotive.com/

https://www.tubularautomotive.com/catalog-1

Thanks, Mike H.

Hello All.

I have read the tunnel port thread and I have a couple questions for the group.

I had a a big Cleveland built with a lot of work done, think a 70's Pro Stock Roush, Glidden kind of thing. It is a healthy piece.

It has a Bud Moore Maxi Box intake that has had the bottom of the ports epoxied up (about 6 inches into) the ports to match heads that have the old school Roush aluminum tongues installed.

The tongues are held in place with a button head through the bottom on the intake port of the head, tapped into the tongues, and Miller Stephenson epoxy.

I have been told not to use any ethanol / oxygenated fuels as it eats away and lifts out the epoxy.

My question is, can or should I use this on the street with ethanol and will it erode and lift out the epoxy unless I use non oxygenated fuels.

Even if I use good fuel, how long would you expect the epoxy to retain its shape and integrity?

I have resisted using the engine at all to this point, but I and am now considering removing the Box intake and going forward with another intake that has no epoxy and not worrying about the tongues.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks, Mike H.

Hello All.

I am looking for a solution to block off the exhaust crossover on an aluminum intake.

I do not have access to a tig, and didn't want to stack a couple pieces of stainless in there.

I figured I could block one side and pour in some block grout, clean it up when dry and be good to go.

Has anyone done this, or see an issue with it?

Thanks, Mike H.