I finally have my 2x4 intake running fairly well, really well actually, on my stock CJ spec cam 428 in my 1964 Galaxie sedan with a 4-speed, and a progressive linkage using 1990's 1850 carbs. I had suffered several issues of chasing vacuum leaks, crappy aftermarket throttle blades (on a crappy rebuilds from some on-line 2x4 specialist, i think carls carbs, but dont quote me on that, i dont want to say something bad i can't substatiate) sticky or flooding needles, leaking bowls, wrong power valves, too lean transfer slots, etc... Stock set-up now with 6.5 PVs and stock spec jets, and 28 shooters.  I completely rebuilt all 4 carbs i have.  Still having issues with the one carb that has phenolic floats and a different (shorter) set of needles, i think my stock fuel pump is too high a pressure (5.5 to 6.5 instead of 4.5 psi.)  I bent a stock fuel line so no regulator inline.  I have a holley regulator on my 750 DP, so i may steal it and make a new fuel line with it inline.

The latest problem was a combination of cheap oval air filter paper swelling is the recent heavy rains here (yes this is a Daily Driver car) and choking air flow and the short element allowed the lid of the oval 427 air filter (from Tony Branda) blocking the bowl vent tubes on my 1850, so it would run out of fuel when i pulled out on the road! LOL!  I have two carbs with no choke towers, and two with, so i installed one with a choke.  It failed and flooded the engine (float issues to resolve) So i swapped the float bowls and now i can actually start and drive the car in the cold mornings.  Amazing how that works.

Anyway, when i order a taller 3" air filter element to replace the shorter one (rather then cutting vent tubes), i was wondering if i should also install any carb spacers at the same time?  If so, how tall, 1/2"? 1"?  I think the 3" filter and a 1" will just fit under the 64 hood, but i have not measured it yet.  And should i go open spacer or 4 hole.  This is a totally stock C3 2x4 intake with the clover leave holes where two diagonal holes are joined, so i was thinking 4 hole because an open spacer might create unwanted turbulence?

So i am looking to buy a 351C torquer modified for the FE Intake Adapter, and i wonder about how low and RPM it will function for semi-daily driving with a 416 and either a 224* (hyd) or a 232* (solid) flat tappet cam? 

The car is a 4200 pound curb weight 1964 Galaxie, currently with a 3.5 rear gear/TopLoader.  I could go lower, but if i do i might want to install my T85 OD trans.

Should i really be looking at an RPM intake?

Thanks.

I have a 428 block, STD bore, but with 4 cylinders cracked from piston expantion and need to be sleeved.  It is an A scratch block dated september 1965.  $250 or best offer?  I also have a STD 428 crank.  Asking $300 or best offer for that. In norther california.  Other FE items also.  Thanks.