SOLD

For sale is a complete Hilborn EFI intake system to suit a SOHC FE. I bought all of this new from Hilborn and ran it briefly in my ‘63 Galaxie. It all worked well, however, being the Luddite that I am, I prefer carburettors.



The manifold has cast 2 7/16” throttle bodies, 50lb Holley injectors, fuel rails, TPI, and MAP sensor port. It has been powder coated in a dark grey colour.



Also included is the Holley HP ecu, full wiring harness, MAP, O2, fuel pressure, oil pressure, IAT, and water temperature sensors, Weldon fuel pressure regulator and Holley EFI analog oil pressure and water temperature gauges, and the airflow synchroniser used to set up the throttle bodies.

I also have 2 sets of stacks to go on the throttle bodies. One is a short stack with a K&N filter, the other is a 6” open tube type. The picture below shows both types.



Since Holley bought out Hilborn, the intake set ups for SOHC engines don’t appear to be available. I’m asking for US$5000 for everything listed, and I can help out with the shipping cost from Australia. If interested, please PM me though this forum. Thanks.

Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches: 505              Dyno brand: Superflow
      Power Adder:  N/A             Where dynoed: Perth, Western Australia
      Peak Horsepower: 714 @6650rpm
      Peak Torque: 626 @4950rpm

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes: Genesis cast iron, 4.35" bore
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: RPM forged, 4.25" stroke
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts: Oliver steel, 6.7"

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR: CP custom flat top, 12.2 to 1

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size: FM

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive: Melling HV

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter: Canton 15-850 7 qt, Canton windage tray, POP oil filter adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050") BP custom Bullet solid roller ~ 0.700" lift

   Lifters brand, type: Crower

   Timing chain and timing cover: FE Power

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information: BP Edelbrock Pro-Port street strip

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio: T&D Race

   Pushrods brand, type, length: Custom 7/16"

   Valve covers, brand, type: FE POwer

   Distributor brand, advance curve information: MSD 8594, locked timing curve, MSD crank trigger

   Harmonic balancer brand: ATI

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric): CSR electric

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information: BBM tunnel wedge, ported by BP

   Carburetor(s) brand, type: 2x4 Holley 660 modified

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type: Custom headers 2" primaries

New set of flat top Diamond pistons to suit a 0.045” over 406. Includes pins and locks. Details in the pictures below. Asking $600 including shipping. PM me if interested.

While my 452 SOHC engine in my ‘63 Galaxie had been running good since I had the carb sorted out, I just can’t leave some things alone. With the single 4 dual plane Ford intake manifold and a 850dp carb, it made 427hp at the rear wheels on the chassis dyno. Here’s a pic of the car on the dyno, and the power chart.





But I have always preferred 2x4 intakes on FE’s, and wanted to do that upgrade on this engine. I was lucky to pick up a Dove tunnel wedge SOHC manifold (thanks Jay!). And for carbs, I bought a pair of custom 780vs Holleys that Drew worked his magic on. And while the Ford magnesium valve covers are rare and light, and look good when polished, they do tarnish quickly, plus I prefer they later style valve covers. I bought a pair of repro valve covers from Brent L. So the last few days I have been doing the change over. I still need to sort out the accelerator rod, and it should then be ready to fire up. But so far, I’m happy with the new look.

I have the CVR extreme water on one of Jay’s water pump adapters, and the pump has developed a leak. You can see the red coolant leaking out in the picture below.



I’ve tightened the four screws at the front of the pump, but don’t want to tighten them any more in case I strip the threads. Has anyone had a similar problem, and can the pumps be pulled apart and repaired?

I bought a Pond aluminium block about 10 years ago to use for the engine in my race car. The block has had a number of issues requiring what I would consider not normal for a new aftermarket block.

The first problem we came across was the width if the saddle on the #3 main was wider on the cap than it was on the block by approximately 0.010", but only on the front thrust face. The cap aligned correctly on the rear thrust face.

The next problem was the deck surfaces had depressions at both ends that looked like they had been left by a finger clamp. This was on both decks. I know this may have been caused by the machine shop and not a manufacturing defect, but the shop that did the machining is fairly competent and should have known not to overtighten on the aluminium decks.

The next problem was the 2 of the main studs stripped out the threads in the block. The studs were installed correctly, only finger tightened, and the nuts were only ever torqued to correct spec. To fix this and prevent any further problems, all main stud holes in the block were fitted with thread inserts.

All the above problems occurred before the engine was ever started. The engine was finally finished and run in on the dyno. However, after the break in procedure, it was found that the cam bearings were excessively worn. To overcome this, a set of roller cam bearings were fitted. The engine was fired back up and a further break in cycle carried out. It was then removed from the dyno and the oil pan was dropped to check the bottom end. That was when the latest problem was found, pictured below.



When the tension was checked on the #1 main stud nut, the stud was loose. When the thread inserts were installed on the main stud holes, it was made sure there was enough material between the hole and the main saddle. 

I understand that all these problems can be caused by bad machining or assembly practices, and if only 1 or 2 of these problems had occurred, I would not suspect anything more than that. But to have all these problems, and the engine has not even made any power runs, let alone been installed in my car, leads me to suspect that there could be a problem with the block.

I've started this thread to see if anyone else has encountered similar issues. I have emailed Robert Pond about the problems, but have yet to hear back from him. I'm not trying to get any sort of refund, I understand that problems can occur. But it appears to me that maybe the block did not have the correct heat treatment done, leaving the aluminium weaker than it should be. Does anyone know what level of heat treatment the block should have had?

My plan for this block is to try and have the broken saddle welded and repaired. But before I go ahead with that, I would like to have the block metallurgically tested to see if the aluminium is the correct strength. Assuming that is checks out okay and can be repaired, I will only use it for a lower power application than I had intended for my race engine.

I'm after a useable, early style non-adjustable Ford rocker arm to suit a SOHC. I only need one arm, but am willing to buy 2 or 3. Please PM if you can help. Thanks,