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Topics - Keith Stevens

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I had Drew do my 2X4 Holleys from Carl's. ( Repo BJ-BK)  I went for a drive and out of the blue I had an issue with idle but runs fine about about 1600 rpm and up but wont idle at 900 as usual.
Because I have a Pertronix II I thought I may have a coil or module issue.  I did the rudimentary testing and found no faults, including verifying sold ground at the distributor. Factory C5AF 427 Centrifugal advance unit.
The voltage is at 11.5 ( not loaded) and the coil is at .05 Ohm.
However, I pulled the carburetors off and noticed that the primary carburetor ( Front) has a rubber vacuum cap on the nipple on the metering block and it was compromised.   Would that cause idle issues in itself?  I am unfamiliar with that port and the OE BJ-BK units do not have them.
Any guidance would be helpful!

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If you're Henry or can get a message to him I would appreciate it.

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FE Technical Forum / 9" Limited Slip noise.
« on: January 12, 2022, 11:40:48 PM »
I have about 2,000 miles on my rebuilt 9" SPEC cased factory Trac Loc.  When I turn from driveways or make a bit tighter turn it feels like It's dragging a tire and there is bearing noise.  I did use the correct gear oil and additive. Is this common with the Trac Lock units? I removed my Detroit locker because of noise and harsh engagement at times.

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FE Technical Forum / FE Adapter to block gasket Fel-pro number?
« on: December 02, 2021, 09:13:51 AM »
My factory oil filter adapter was damaged and I purchase the reproduction to replace it. The gasket provided with the adapter is not paper thin like the factory gasket. The gasket seems to be of decent quality and is clearanced  for the ports on the adapter. It just seems to weep. I have changed it twice now.
I was wondering if anyone had a Fel Pro number for the gasket.
I have about 70-80 PSI cold with 20-50.  25 Psi @ 900 idle and 60-65 PSI at cruise hot.
Do you recommend copper spray on the gasket?

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FE Technical Forum / Typical FE Oil into coolant issue.. Or not.
« on: July 01, 2021, 03:14:09 PM »
I have been having an issue with oil passing into the coolant system for some time. The shop that prepped the block did the oil passage modification.
The radiused adapter area, galley plugs, offset crank oiling orifices, oil pump at block. The two galleries were drilled to 7/16" at the oil filter adapter.
Do either one of those passages intersect or parallel to a water jacket with proximity close enough to have been compromised?

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I have had the mustang aligned three times.  The first time the idiot got so heavy-handed he rounded out the lower control arm cam bolts. Needless to say the lower arms were moving.
The second time I took it to a reputable shop recommended by a couple guys with 60's Brand X cars who had success with them.

My 67 has the Arning drop, new upper and lower control arms, strut rod bushings, tie rod ends, 1" lower Global West 635lb springs, perches, and 1/2 Poly spring spacer and Koni shocks.  I had them align the car using the camber locking kit, so I shouldn't have been able to be in a state of negative camber.
Anyone have any guessed? It feathered the inside of the tire, so 1400 miles post alignment and new tires it's going to happen again.

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I had something odd happen this morning. I have the original 1967 sand cast penthouse valve covers. I adjusted the valves Thursday and put the covers back on. I took the car for a ride this morning and I got a strange valvetrain noise. I pulled into a parking lot, listened for a moment and could only assume I hadn't locked one of the adjuster nuts down and It had backed off. I had the car taken home on a flatbed. 
I pulled the cover off this evening fully expecting to see a loose adjuster or worse, a rocker arm that had broken.  When I pulled the cover I found the baffle laying on top of the rocker arms.  No signs of new contact from the rocker arms. ( Factory Ford cast iron rockers had made contact and was the reason for change to roller rockers initially. I was lucky. All four baffle rivets were laying in the oil return.
If I leave the baffle out, which happens to have the PCV valve would this be problematic? I have a cover over the rear of the intake and a breather cap over the intake and left hand valve cover.  I thought about just putting another breather or plug in the right cover. The car has AC and an export brace. so space is limited with the ac hoses and the breather.  I thought about using a hole saw and knocking holes just above where the rocker adjusters would be and threading threading the baffle bosses and using screws to retain the baffle.


 The cam is a relatively mild .567, .238@ .050 hydraulic camshaft with about 335 open pressures @ .0600.
Any ideas for causation? Non-functioning PCV acceptable being the left side has a breather cap as well as the intake filler tube?


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Is it relatively easy for a steel flywheel to be balanced to match the engine if the original weight specs are present? This is a '28 flywheel. The aluminum unit was drill balanced.

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I am in need of some information on function if anyone has the Selectaire  Cougar or Mustang. I have a 67. However, the 68 should be the same.  The question concerns vent and blower function. I have not charged the system yet.
If anyone has a vehicle that functions correctly and has a few minutes it'd be appreciated.

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Well, I know at the end of the day this should have been set up and done off the vehicle.  I didn't screw up... Much. I am about .010 tilted to the front of the engine.  The third stand doesn't want to slide down so... I considered gently bending the stud to the rear to get it back into alignment. Does anyone see an issue with that? The other option would be to bolt the assembly down, use the tower a guide. Re-drill the hole and put a helicoil into the Big-sert.

What say the peanut gallery?

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FE Technical Forum / Time-sert kit and information.
« on: December 11, 2020, 04:34:25 PM »
I understand the recommendation and why many would do it head-off. I think part of my issue was due to ARP giving me a 55 ft lb specification. The Helicoils are NOT rated for that according to Edelbrock. The factory bolt spec was 45 ft lb
The other coils are fine and there is no issue. I am concerned with keeping them concentric with the rocker pad. I have to use the oversized kit because the Edelbrock heads use a Helicoil. The kit for the oversized just showed up today. I've done many things, but never this in confined spaces with a power booster in close proximity.  I decided to do it by hand. The time-sert kit tools are top quality and razor sharp. They have a tap guide that is purchased seperately. With the machined pad it should help with alignment concerns. It's worth the 8.45 investment.  The downside is these kits are a 100.00 investment Vs. 26.00 for a helicoil. For someone who has a shop the cost would absolutely be justified. Here are pictures of both kits and it's contents.

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I took the advice and ordered the Time-sert set and guide. However, post order I noticed they offered two versions.  Being the Edelbrock heads have coils I wanted to make sure there was enough material for use with the standard Time-sert. They offer a Big-Sert. Do I need to order the larger of the two?

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I used the 1247-S3 with the steel shim. A slight amount protrudes into the VC rail area. What are we cutting this off with?

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The coil is only partially pulled. Is it safe to drill them out or do I need to use another method to remove the coil before hand?

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I need one rocker. When stud loosened up it caused an adjuster nut to loosen and the pushrod cup damaged the bottom of the rocker. If anyone can help out I'd be highly appreciative. 

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