Looking for folks opinions and experiences about tire size vs gear ratio. I'm setting up my Cougar with 275/50R-17s out back. The tires currently are Nitto NT555 Ultra High Perf. but I may switch to M&H drag radials later on.

Tire diameter is in the 27" to 28" range. Is this "a lot" of tire and capable of hooking or will I be smokin' them in every gear? I realize there are many variables but I'm wanting to nail down which ring and pinion I should end up with. Note that the 6R80 1st gear ratio is 4.17 : 1. 99% street driven but I want it to be capable at the drag strip without being a "white knuckle" ride.

650HP stroker FE
3500lbs
Caltracs, Composite leaf springs, single adjustable shocks
~2500 stall trans brake, 2000 stall foot brake

At 2000 RPM and a 0.69 overdrive the 3.70 would put 63MPH whereas the 3.89 would drop this to 60MPH.
2350 RPM puts me at 74MPH or 70MPH.

I have seen more activity on the RPM Act. Very good news. I'd like to request all those interested to take a look at Jay's sticky and resend to your local representative.

I am sizing up a 4.375" stroker crank in a 390 D3TE block. Very preliminary review shows that I won't have any contact points. I say very preliminary as the only bearings I have currently are for a 0.010" under crank so the new Scat part can't fully seat. Also no rods yet. I am seeing el cheapo bearing sets on ebay for $24.99 that should be fine for moch up only. What clearance around the counterweights should I maintain? Only the smaller counterweights seem to be getting close from what I gather.

I've read that Molnar 6.7" rods are getting more preference lately over the Scat version. How do the big ends differ in size for stroker clearances?

Oh - If anyone cares to chuck some used STD Main bearings up in the free stuff section I think that would be cool. 

These are from the previous owner and I'd like to preserve them. I'm driving a lot and they are blocking my view somewhat. What have any of you done with stickers like these? Thinking I might just remove the newer upper ones and keep the bottom two. Just looking for opinions.

I've been documenting a MCC 105 block as I remove the last items like core plugs. I will take it to a local shop for cleaning and inspection. If no cracks are found and the sonic goes well how would most proceed with items such as flash and voids? Horsepower goal is somewhere between 650hp+ so cross bolts on at least two of the mains it probably the plan. Is anything pictures here cause to dump this block and find another? It appears the factory covered up an external void with some type of block fill material.

 

Hey all - This engine was dropped off today. My goal was to find a suitable block for a stroker motor that will make good used and Jay's new head technology. Hit pay dirt as it came with a 428 crank. (Updated 4/1 - crank is actually a 3U so I screwed the pooch on this) Had to measure it twice as I was in disbelieve. It would appear to be a 0.030" over 390 block with a 428 crank and the GT iron "S" intake. It will be another week or two before I can start disassembly. What's the best technique to pull out the core plugs to perform the drill bit test?

Folks - I saw this on the Cougar forum and figured I'd post it here in the main FE thread.

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I just got this e-mail from a local engine rebuilder, Rob at "Blue Oval" ....

"Last week, I found that my 40 foot storage unit at Public Storage had been broken into, and almost everything of any value had been taken. Last time I'd been in the unit was Dec 22nd, so sometime in the last 4 weeks, they picked the locks and loaded up over 6000 pounds of new and used parts. They knew exactly what they were doing, as they cherry picked all the better parts, leaving behind core blocks that were marked "crack-needs repair" or "missing main caps". They took over 25 blocks, 25+ crankshafts, 20 pairs of cylinder heads, tooling for the SuperFlo Flow Bench, and customer parts for their engine projects.

I'll provide an abbreviated list here to highlight some of what was taken. Please let me know if you run across anything on line, or through the grapevine, that seems unusual or might be related.

The blocks ranged from simple washed cores with paint on them to hot tanked cores to fully machined and bagged customer blocks ready to go.

Cores included 390 and 428CJ FE, early and late 351W, 289/302/5.0, SVO R302 and the older A4 302 Motorsport block, 429/460, 429CJ 4-bolt, 350 4 bolt main, 454BBC both Gen IV and Gen VI, early Pontiac 428

Machined blocks included: 427FE Center Oiler - fully done, 2 early 460 2 bolt blocks, AMC 401 2 bolt with ARP main studs, 350 4 bolt w/ARP main studs, 289 and 302 with ARP main bolts.


Cylinder heads were all cores: SBF, FE, 429, BBC oval port

Crankshafts: 289, 302, 5.0, 351W, 361FE, 390FE, 429, 460, 350 cast & steel, 454, AMC 401

Also: 2 Mustang Toploader 4 speed transmissions, S-code FE iron 4V intake manifold, 351C 4V exhaust manifolds

Complete Chevy 235-L6 engine: disassembled, cleaned, all small parts boxed up.

Ford MEL 430: ALL parts except block, crank, and heads. Many parts black powder coated such as intake, oil pan, v-covers.....

460 Stroker engine: boxed parts intake manifold to oil pan

2.3L boxed external components: brackets, alternator, etc., Factory Ford service manual

351W Intake to oil pan parts, SVO J302 alum cyl heads

Super Flo Flow Bench set up fixtures (they left the bench, but took all the boxed up fixturing) Brzezinski cylinder head slider plates, flow cylinder bores, manual valve opening bar (picture below) , and inlet flow guide plates."

Please keep a super keen eye out for ANY of these parts. They will most likely show up out of state...

Contact Rob at BlueOval in Englewood Co
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