Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshafts 2220

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2220/make/ford#overview

this is purely academic i guess since i'm not about to buy one, but does anyone know any thing about this cam / running one?

The two interesting things are that its on a 112 LSA vs the more common 110 and its advertised and .050 numbers are the same everywhere i can find it. One presumes it's likely a comp ground cam (perhaps one of the old Crane patterns) but it doesn't seem to match their catalog cams. the Specs cant be right for advertised at .006 or similar.

Anyway.
R

What's the current favored new Harmonic balancer and spacer options for a neutral balanced stroker.

I must have gotten a friday afternoon crankshaft.

When installing the damper (with a rental Tool) the treads came mostly out with the tool. there were enough to hold the bolt with locktite but don't really trust it and want to fix it.

From my reading my 2 choices are tap it larger for a Hemi Bolt or helicoil. Either is going to require drilling it out, is there any solution to doing so with the crank it the engine and in the truck? Or do i need to resign myself to pulling it all out?

It is in a 72 F100 2wd, backed by a C6 and a 3.50:1 gear on ~26.5 tall tires.

So background i built a 390 from a 360 and lost a bearing, i rebuilt it as a 445. It also has a Holley Terminator Stealth EFI and Hooker headers.

When i originally built it i had the stock C8AE-H heads extensively reworked with CJ valves and so forth but this brought the combustion chamber down to 65-66cc I also used a FPA aluminum CJ intake (i think it is a rebranded Blue Thunder) this of course creates a port mismatch. I also put in a Crower solid roller it is a 280R "street roller" and Erson rockers, it has HIPPO lifters. I reused all of this on the 445 build.

I'm pretty happy with the cam and build except that the adjusters on the ersons keep wearing rather dramatically and the idle needs to be higher than i would like. It does sound nice. However i no longer really care if it has any lope. I suspect the spring pressures (which are very high are at least partially (if not entirely) responsible for the wear on the rocker adjusters, plus i really don't want to adjust them anymore.

The original build was at 10.6:1 with 1020s and the 445 is at 10.6ish with the thicker felpros. it is somewhat sensitive to total advance over 34ish and ping.

I had it chassis dynoed as a 390 and was pretty disappointed, however we do now know that it was sick at the time...

I am now here looking for ideas about how to proceed with some modifications to the build with the goal of simplifying the whole thing, i and thinking hydraulic roller, i'm really not seriously opposed to changing the heads but if i could get the DCR and idle under control with the existing ones that'd be nice. Cost within reason isn't a huge issue.

I'm also thinking of using a stock "S" intake (i have it) and the (dismal) factory exhaust manifolds. I just want to put it together one last time and forget about the engine part of the project. I have even considered a flat tappet and stock rocker arms.

So what are the collectives ideas about a very mild rework for an automatic truck? How bad power wise am i going to shoot myself in the foot with the factory manifolds... can i get 350hp out of it?

It is a fairly mild Solid Roller *Crower 280R* and i'm having issues finding the spring rate but it think they are Crower 68385X2-16 @ 432 lbs./in.

The Comp according to a Hot Rod build have steel stands? They also look like the will fit under PBF covers? I believe the Harland sharp will also fit under PBF covers.

Interesting ....

Widening it up killed a good bit of power...

So on build number 1 I had issues with pushrods and adjusters.

Smith Brothers suggested an increased size ball and cup. Once again I can no longer read the invoice.

What would have been the typical upgrade there 10-15 years ago?

Related question:

Any one make an adjuster with a smaller nut (a lower profile adjuster)?