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Topics - DuckRyder

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Interesting ....

Widening it up killed a good bit of power...

FE Technical Forum / I’m disappointed in Freiburger
« on: June 21, 2020, 06:54:20 AM »
And his Dentside hop up...

He should have at least tried on of the popular Truck cams that are known to work...

FE Technical Forum / Jog my memory - Erson Adjusters
« on: June 21, 2020, 06:50:07 AM »
So on build number 1 I had issues with pushrods and adjusters.

Smith Brothers suggested an increased size ball and cup. Once again I can no longer read the invoice.

What would have been the typical upgrade there 10-15 years ago?

Related question:

Any one make an adjuster with a smaller nut (a lower profile adjuster)?


I seem to recall someone else having this issue, question is, how critical and will it affect the balance? Can I just make a couple of blocks to spin the crank on and decrease the outer diameter using a file of un married parents and then clean up the shavings really well, or do I need to seek out a machine shop to fix it?

FE Technical Forum / Dumb question number 2 for the week TA-31 o2 safe?
« on: December 14, 2019, 12:00:37 PM »
It doesn’t say and I rather not kill a wide band....

I know we did Med Riser and the conclusion was MG202

How about the low riser / CJ style port, Felpro 1246-S3 (these are the black ones) or something else like Edelbrock or MR G, can I use the ones that come in the FS8554PT set?

I only want to do this once and while its out of the truck... It is an aluminum manifold if it matters...

FE Technical Forum / Reproduction Power By Ford Valve Covers
« on: December 08, 2019, 08:54:31 AM »
I am finding Tony D Branda and Scott Drake. Branda says baffled and Scott Drake say not baffled.

Is there a difference and is not baffled for the Scott Drake correct?

Will either clear Erson Rockers? I seem to remember factory ones would not, but don’t remember why,,,

Private Classifieds / 390 Rotating Assembly (SOLD PENDING MEET)
« on: December 01, 2019, 07:50:05 PM »
The crank will need repair/exchange. It might clean up at 40 on the bad rod journal or could I’ve been told it could possibly be welded.

Crank is 10/10 save the self machined journal. I believe the others would polish.

Has L2291F-.30 forged speed pros, shot peened rods with ARP bolts, and is/was balanced.

Bearings and rings will need replaced

I’m thinking $150

Is located in Atlanta.

Pertinent thread:

For reasons that are hopefully obvious, I’d rather not ship this. Its located in Atlanta GA.

I’ll make a reasonable trip to meet someone halfway. If someone absolutely must have it shipped and is willing to arrange it, I’d be willing.

It came out of my F100 earlier this year, I bought it from someone on FORDification around 2004/2005, but don’t know much about it other than that.

Though it is dusty / dirty it does have a coat of POR15 as well as stainless brake lines

I’d sell it cheap, I need it gone.

FE Technical Forum / Ring files - Grit and Design
« on: October 16, 2019, 06:02:15 AM »
Needing a new ring file (just a manual crank set up) looking at summit there are two choices that appear to work differently:

This set up seems to be sold under a number of brands and includes the two post that you press the ring into, it seems to file both ends of the ring simulatiniously and is 80 grit which seems quite coarse.

and  (click on instructions for a pdf with pictures)

This set up seems to file only one end of the ring but I’m not sure I understand how the locator works (again instructions) and it is 140/170 grit.

Filing only one end seems to cut the chance of creating burrs or chipping moly coating in half...

Any recommendations/experience around these or similar set ups. (I’m open to other set ups / suppliers too.

Am I missing something?

Apologies in advance if y’all have seen this on another forum, going to try to condense it into one post in case there are any unique visitors to forums.

Seems like I’ve lost a Rod bearing in the 390.

I built this engine a number of years back (like 2005ish) but it has very few miles.

It began to knock and the oil filter is full of copper (or bronze) and some much smaller magnetic particles. I have not gotten into the engine yet, but I’m guessing the crank is going to be scrap along with probably the rod.

It is a .30 over 390, has a Crower street roller and HIPPO rollers and Erson Roller Rockers

My questions are two fold:

1) If the crank is bad - I will likely just do a stroker. Is there any reason to chose something other that a cast crank 4.250 rotating assembly for a street application? I don’t see it making over 450HP... though it spins pretty hard to 6500 or so RPM.

2) Any tips for cleaning the parts, particularly the roller rockers and lifters?

The block is the original 360 truck block (as near as I can tell) it was decked, align honed, bored with torque plates... assuming it isn’t damaged from this incident I’d like to reuse it at the current bore. It has about 3500 miles on it.

In fact I’m hoping to reuse everything that isn’t damaged.

It currently has L2291F30 at zero (.004ish) deck and Victor head gaskets. I calculated the static compression ratio back then at 10.6:1. Once I get it all apart, re checking all measurements before buying parts is in order.

Mahle catalog shows a piston matching SCATS specs @ Compression height of 1.325 (incidentally they also show a 28cc piston that would get the compression down, but I don’t see an off the shelf kit using that piston.) Might definitely be worth a call to Barry or Brent to see what they can do.

The Cam is a Crower Part Number: 16462 Mechanical Roller (280R). INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift:234°/244° RR:1.76/1.76Gross Lift:.580”/.582”
LSA:110° RPM:2500 to 6000 Redline:7500 (I really like this cam, I hope it is OK and I can make it work)

It does have an adjustable timing set.

It is fuel injected with a Holley Terminator Stealth, MSD pro billet distributor if it matters. Has a FPP (Which I think is the same as Blue Thunder) single 4V CJ intake which is a poor match to the heads... and Hooker truck headers.

No real evidence of metal in the upper end

Some flakes of copper / bronze in valley

No evidence of issues on pistons

No obvious damage to rods or crank (no blue/black rods etc...)

Don’t remember these marks but all rods seem to have them, so I am thinking its from balancing/machine shop fixtures...

5 is where it sounded like knock came from.

I did note that there seems to be excessive side clearances so checking that is on the list for tomorrow.

It seems to have zero end play, which I also don’t recall and will bear investigation...

Dist gear seems a little sharp so will clean and inspect that as well...

Well I would say the mystery about what is wrong is solved. This is number 7.

Now the question is why?

It still doesn’t have any end play, but the thrust bearing looks ok.

This was one of the copper colored rods, i asked about this back when I built it, but the consensus was some of them are just like that...

Other things I’m aware of are:

I had a converter incompatibility issue with a flex plate and it wiped the front pump in the trans, this was right after it was reinstalled, I was expecting to find issues with the trust bearing.

When the heads were ported epoxy was used to port match the CJ style intake to the MR style heads, last time I had the intake off one was found to be MIA (wish I recalled which CYL, probably should have written that down.)

I think my tolerance for trying to rebuild it as a 390 is badly waining... guess I need to get some more measuring done...

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