Does anyone have part numbers for the chain idler and tensioner bearings?

Looking for a road draft tube for my 427 SOHC. 
Also, does anyone know if this part is unique to a Cammer or will a standard 427 tube fit?

Need some opinions on what to try next.

To begin, I think my accelerator pumps (both 50cc, yellow and brown cams) and nozzles (both 40’s) are sized right. When I quickly smash the throttle 1/2 way and all the way my AFR stays at about 13 to 1.

At WOT my AFR is a bit rich at 12.2 to 1. I’m not concerned about correcting this until I get my tip in problem resolved (see below).

Details about the carb: 
780 double pumper
73 primary, 78 secondary jets
4.5 power valve.  But I’ve also tried 5.5 and 6.5 with similar results.
PVCR’s drilled to .0625”
10” vacuum at idle, transition slots are not uncovered. Idle = 1000rpm
Burning non-ethanol premium fuel
Float levels are set to mid window. I started with level at bottom of the window and raising it midway did help a bit.

Motor details:
10:1 compression.
Iron 427 SOHC 4V (500ish Horsepower)
Close to stock 1967 NOS cam specs. (Crane says operating range is 2500-7000 rpm)
2800 lbs street car

Here’s my problem:
The engine goes lean (16-17 to 1) when slowly increasing RPM at about 1/4 throttle and doesn’t richen up until I quickly press into the secondaries.  If I try to slowly increase throttle beyond 1/4 throttle the lean condition causes snapping and popping (bad noises).   
Anything less than 1/4 throttle (cruising) is a bit too rich (12-13 to 1).
When I go WOT I’m a bit too rich (12.2 to 1) I can easily fix this but I think I need to focus on the 1/4 throttle “too lean” issue first.

My first inclination is to increase primary jets and decrease secondary jets.  If I do this I’ll end up with close to the same size jets at all 4 corners with a power valve on the primary side only.  Does this sound normal? 

Should I be looking at increasing or decreasing emulsion jets?

I just purchased a NOS 4v iron Cammer that the previous owner modified with 10 to 1 compression and different cams.  Other than some inter coatings, better carb, and electronic ignition the rest is stock. The motor currently is setup with 30 degrees total timing (which seems a little low) And the best I can tell from his notes the cams are advanced 2 and 4 degrees. His reason for these changes was to make the motor more streetable and pump gas friendly. I’ll send the cam card in the next post. I believe the cams he used are very close to stock.

My question is how much power do you guys think the motor is making?

Does anyone here have first hand knowledge of what it feels like to drive a car with 12” Wilwood 6 piston brakes (4 piston on the rear) without a brake booster. Then drive the exact same car with the same brakes except with a booster?
I’m curious if a brake booster is really that necessary when running big brakes with 6 piston calipers.

(3100lbs car with very sticky tires. Occasional autocross.)

Are there any disadvantages of using a 50 ohm/ft spark plug wire instead of a 350 ohm/ft wire?  Is there a different ignition box required? Do spark plugs erode faster?

My application is Street/Strip, 11.5 compression on pump gas,  Cammer with Hilborn IR EFI so the injector wires will be relatively close to the spark plug wires. 

Does anyone have dyno results comparing Hilborn/Stack style IR intake running filters vs no filters?
I frequently see engines dyno’d without filters to optimize air flow and power. But in reality how many of those engines get filters once installed in a vehicle. How much air flow is restricted with filters or screens and how much horsepower is lost?
I’m going to use a Hilborn on the street and plan to dyno the engine with filters installed exactly like it will be in my car.

Different style filters that I’m aware of:
1. Individual K&N style air filters
2. Large single K&N style filters (like the dirt track guys use)
3. Bug Dome screen style (I would add outerwear nylon booties)
4. Tube top filters (foam sandwiched between large hole screens)

Basically I’m looking for first hand knowledge of horsepower loss for each filter option.