Hey guys, looking for an opinion on whether or not to gasket match my heads and intake.  I feel like I should know the answer to this but my engine building experience so far has been pretty much bolt together affairs so I want to consult the experts before spending money or time and effort that might be detrimental to my goal in the first place.  Basically I'm building a 427 (stock bore and stroke) with edelbrock medium rise heads and a BBM tunnel wedge intake.  For fuel delivery I'll be using a FAST or equivalent 2x4 fuel injection setup.  I know that the intake I'm using is large for my cubic inches.  That being said, the intake ports on the heads and intake match absolutely perfectly right out of the box; it's like they were cast together and then cut apart.  I still plan on installing larger 2.19 valves in the heads, but would there be any benefit to gasket matching the heads and intake to a larger size?  It is going in a light street vehicle with normal street operation.  With the amount of cubes I'm running would gasket matching kill any port velocity I have?  I realize it would move the power band higher in the RPM range but it will be a stop and go/freeway car in the first place.  Sorry for being long winded.

Hey all, wanting to trade my Weber intake and carbs.  I love the look but it is an engine swap and I'm looking to do something with a little more tech in the car.  Intake is a BT MR that has never been run.  There is a bung for a temperature sensor that has been epoxied in and there are 4 holes in between the front 2 carbs for mounting a 1x4 fuel distribution block if needed.  Water crossover fitting is included.  Carb mounting gaskets are included.  Carb studs, washers and nuts are all ARP and are included.4 carburetors are included and they are EPC48 carbs that are all new.  The EMPI logos have been ground off of all of them, they have been blasted and painted with ceramic paint.  This is basically a replica of the setup Jay used in his dyno testing, so 43mm chokes and associated jets are used.  All the extra jets I have are included as well.  Linkage is included.  I didn't want to run this on the street without filters, so 4 Inglese short stacks and K&N filters are included.  These are supposed to pop on to the stacks but some stay and some don't hence the band clamps.  The tops are just chromed plates but the screws in them are just for looks and don't actually attach to anything.  Clamps for 8 filters and the remaining chrome discs and hardware are included as well.  A fuel line is included that consolidates to a 3/8 inlet with fittings and copper gaskets.

I'd like to trade this for a BBM single plane 2x4 intake that they have.  If you add all of this up it's a good deal IMO.  If interested or you have any questions please send me a PM.

Hey guys I'm looking for an iron case overdrive toploader (one of David Kee's toploader imposters) for my mustang project.  Planning on installing the large diameter short input shaft to hook up to my FE and replace the main shaft and tail housing with 31 spline parts.  I thought it would be an easy task to find one here in the Dallas area but I've contacted every salvage yard returned in a Google search and they either don't have one or don't speak English.  Does anybody have one laying around they could stand to part with?

Hey guys - I've got my mock engine together for my 65 Mustang project and am now transferring it off the engine stand and onto some motofeet in order to mock up the bellhousing and transmission.  I was able to find a block plate on Ebay and there were no part numbers on it; only the FoMoCo stamp.  It has the 3 holes for the oil galley plugs.  I believe this is the correct one for a 1965 but if not, please let me know as I'm going for period correctness here even though this engine was not available from the factory in this car.  In cleaning the plate up and blasting it it appears that there are some remnants of an adhesive rubber strip at the bottom on the side that faces the block.  In all of my research trying to find out what this is the only thing I've found is that there may have been some sort of seal on the transmission side of the plate for the inspection/flywheel cover.  Can anyone verify if there were actual seals on this thing, which side they were on or both, and what they were made of/where to get them?

In Jay's book the cheap truck headers performed very well despite their smaller tube diameter presumably due to not having to make sharp bends immediately leaving the heads to clear the shock towers in Mustangs, etc.  As many aftermarket suspension systems that are available today that allow removal or severe notching of the shock towers, has anybody tried to run truck headers in a Mustang?  Upon visual inspection it looks like the 2WD headers would clear clutch linkage with no problem, but I don't know about other things like ground clearance.  If this were possible it would open up some pretty good options before having to go a full custom route.

Just curious if anyone has tried this and if so what their results were like.

Hey guys - I'd like opinions on a set of headers, specifically Doug's D627 header.  I would like to use these in a mustang.  It is my understanding that in a flat plane crankshaft the exhaust pulses are equal from side to side, giving a european V8 sound.  In a crossplane V8 such as the FE, there are are times when the exhaust pulses double on each side, giving the classic American rumble.  If these headers move the exhaust form the off cylinder to the opposite side and even the pulses between banks, does this mean that these headers will cause the engine to lose it's American rumble sound?  I believe the Thunderbolt used something like these, but I don't want to use them if it means giving up a distinctive personality trait of the classic American V8.

Quick question for you guys - if you were trying to assemble a period correct 1965 427 R code with dual quads, what kind of clamp would you use on the rubber lines from the fuel log to the carburetors?  I have tried to do research but can't find anything definitive.  In pictures I've seen everything from worm style to spring style to no clamps at all.  I know the Wittek tower clamps were widely used then but I can't find any small enough for a fuel line if that is what was used.  Any suggestions?

Looking for an aftermarket balancer and had 2 questions for anybody who can answer regarding aftermarket balancers for an FE:

1.  Both Professional Products and Scat make a non SFI balancer with part #'s 80008/D-80008 respectively as well as SFI versions 90009/D-90009.  Aside from the part numbers being almost identical, in all of the pictures I was able to find of the Scat balancer there was a Professional products sticker on it.  Is the Scat version simply a rebranded Professional products one?

2.  Any real opinions on SFI vs. non-SFI?  I know one is supposed to be tested or manufactured to SFI standard and one is not, but does that really mean anything on the street?

Thank you guys!