Seeing I live in a cold state.  I am wondering if beaver springs has a guy that can certify my chassis before the event in april?

its just a dumb question i am going to ask.   any of the engine builders in here ever seen or done all 8 sleeves in a motor?  i have never had to sleeve one personally but i am just wondering if it is possible and or can it be done?

I was watching this past weekend engine power did fi tech on dyno.   it really did look easy to hook up.  so I went to their site and dug into installing it and yes it really is easy to hook up,  literally just a few wires,  and you don't need to be college educated to do it. that being said and I know their is proponents of injection on here and I am not picking on it any way shape or form.  but myself being injection illiterate ill call it,  the thing that made me scratch my head was that they swapped injection for a carb and then dynoed and the carb didn't add any torque numbers but it did add about 15 more horsepower if I remember correctly and the hosts of the show honestly had nothing to say they both were surprised,   heck I was too.   So seeing these injection systems are self learning and adjust to the "driver" ill call it. is that just not a surprise on the power to where the injection system hadn't fully learned the driving habits and or was just brand new with no real time running on it?   

I have a holley red fuel pump and a holley regulator,  I cant keep the pressure regulated,  I replaced diaphragm and put in the low pressure (red spring)  I turned on pump and set pressure to 6 psi,  it stayed their for about 5 seconds and then just steadily climbs up and I cant control it.   I do not have a return line on this car it never needed one.  the regulator always did a good job.  do the internal check ball and spring on these regulators go bad?  its never happened to me before so I have been scratching my head on this one.  that being said I could use some answers on this and also some pressure regulator recommendations.

i installed the cvr water pump with jays adapters and they fit awesome.  thanks jay.  the problem I am having is that I pressurized the system to 14 lbs with the stant pressure kit and I am losing pressure,  so not getting discouraged I put a vacuum on the system of 23 lbs and is leaking back also.  so 1 more time I pressurized it and got out the soap bottle and the pump motor gasket that bolts to the front of the main housing makes bubbles all the way around, so im not quite mad yet but I am wondering if I fill the system with coolant if that will make the seal swell and end the leaks?   any thoughts anyone? and or anybody else experience this?

i fired up my comet yesterday with a 428.  the radiator cap was off and it was pushing a little water out the radiator a trail all the way out my shop door.  i fill water with a lift pump under vacuum to make sure all the air is out.  another friend of mine borrowed me the stant pressure tester kit so i started car and no pressure at all on the tester.  the only time that guage moved was when i would turn on the electric water pump then the guage would show just very litlle pressure.  i am, i think worried about this some what.  the car has cometic head gaskets on it and my friend told me that a person should use copper spray on gasket before putting on?  i asked cometic that a couple years ago when i assembled and they said to just put on the bare head gasket (no copper spray).  so thats what i did.   so now i am going to go to local semi parts dealer and buy a test kit for gases in the coolant system.  and then base my decision from their.  any body have problem like this and or give a guy some advice.  i really dont want to pull motor again with out making darn sure first.  engine is 428 with alum edelbrock heads.

ihave been having problem with autometer temp mechanical guages.  anyone else have this problem?   it doesnt seem to read anywhere near where it should.  i have sent it in to autometer and they sent me a new one,  still the same thing,  i also check temp with a laser themometer and i was reading 20 degrees cooler than the autometer guage,  questioning my guage i borrowed one from a shop neighbor and it was right in line with my laser thermometer.  i am thinking about pulling out that mechanical guage and trying out an electrical guage.  anybody else have this problem?  and or any guidance?

i am looking for a kit to remove the shock towers so i can make some real headers that breathe. and possibly install a manual rack and pinion and get rid of the factory steering parts which i believe is heavier than a manual rack and pinion. does anybody make this kit for a comet?