Switching the old 1G in my 67 Fairlane to a 3G unit.
Not sure where to incorporate the alternator shut down wiring. It was wired in to the F wire that came out of the old regulator. That wire is not part of the 3G wiring scheme. The possible new choices are the yellow wire emanating from the 3G loom, the main power wire that attaches to the alternator batt stud, (both of those terminate at the solenoid), the green wire that goes from the 3G loom to the ignition switch or the loom wire that goes to the stator.
The loop that goes to the small terminals on the trunk mounted switch is 14 gauge.

Thanks

Can this be done? I have looked at many on line calculators but cannot deduce from what I have seen how to learn the impact of a gear ratio change. RPM & MPH changes no problem.

Existing numbers are 125 mph at 7000 rpm. Horsepower could be anywhere from 575 to 625. Probably 575 at this point as engine is tired. Current ratio is 4.86. Considering 4.71s to take a couple hundred rpm off of trap rpm.

Is ET too subjective to formulate?

Thanks

I don’t feel my launches are compromised without them but down the track there is a high gear stumble. Could be any number of things but throwing some money at two extension kits is easy.

Thanks

Could not hold car in box for burnout. It would just spin up close to the line and I just staged after that. So 60’ was off by a tenth, (1.56).


https://youtu.be/RM1ruzhd9UU?feature=shared


The video is there but it must be tapped on to show up.

I bought a used 7AL-3 at the FE R&R two years ago. Even though it was advertised as being freshened I sent it out to them last September along with a 6 box that needed work. There were only a few small things wrong with the 7 which MSD fixed. I ran the 7 all this year without incident until a few days ago. Engine had been lighting off easily and running well. I had pulled Fairlane out of shop for some work on a wide-band sensor. Go to put it away and cranking fine but no firing. Just in case the voltage to the unit was low I added in a 55 amp booster jump to battery. I could see on my volts gauge I had over 12 while cranking so plenty of juice for the sometimes finicky 7 box. Not even a pop.  Ended up just wiring my 8595 RTR distributor without box to get car back in garage. ( Lit off no problem).

Did the standard spark jump test after confirming the box was getting juice while cranking. No spark. Substituted a Blaster II coil to rule out the hi voltage 8251 coil was the problem. No difference, no firing.
So now the 7 is going to go back to Texas for another refresh. So irritating 😠

Started getting some 1.45 60' times. Had not been better than 1.5s previously. Best pass over the event was a 10.73@124.86. Video is of a second round pass in Hot FE. Thomas had me from the hole and all the way down the track but let off to avoid breaking out and I got him at the stripe by .0040. That was it for me as I went red by a lot in the next round.




https://youtu.be/rkgLzPf1yx4?t=37

https://opentrackerracing.com/product/adjustable-strut-rods-1967/



My strut rod end threads are tired, they have been chased and new nuts utilized but they are done.
Gonna have to do something, could just buy new rods.

Thanks