Looking for a dual groove generator pulley for a 63 Galaxie FE application. This pulley would be what comes on the generator for a 63-64 with air and power steering. Pulley size is about 3 1/8” OD with a 5/8”hole for the shaft, the hole would also be machined for a woodruff key.  Anyone got one of these laying around?

For lack of finding the correct pulley looking for a good source for an aftermarket pulley that would work. I looked at Summit, they have lots of dual groove alternator pulleys, largest diameter was only about 2 5/8” and I don’t think any had a woodruff key. How important is the woodruff key on the generator if alternators get by without them?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_aRxkRCXD0

Come across this video of Dearborn in 1962.  Engine manufacture and build appears to be FE, looks like a 352 at the end.  It then goes off to show a 62 Fairlane being built.

I have some 428 parts that I would like to sell.  All parts are plus freight from 56016.  If it would help, I am making a trip from southern Minnesota to Harrisburg, PA at Christmas with the possibility of delivering some of the heavy stuff.

C8OE 9425-C 428 CJ Intake Manifold, Date Code 8G29, Manifold is extremely clean and in excellent condition. Currently is painted black, I was going to use it in my 63 Galaxie but ended up going the 2 x 4 route.  (And it weighs 81 pounds before packaging.)  $375 SOLD

428 Crankshaft 1U crankshaft, Rod journals @ .010, Main journals @ .010.  Will at least need to be polished.  $275  SOLD

428 flywheel for C6 Transmission with spacer ring for flywheel bolts.  (Fly wheel bolts are not included)  Excellent condition, $75  SOLD

C9ZE-6582-B, 428 CJ Valve Cover.  Note there is only one of them.  Cast Aluminum with the ribs in it.  I think it is for the road side based on a decal for idle speed and the oil cap opening (no grommet). $45  SOLD

428 CJ Metal Vacuum Line and both manifold fittings for PCV, Power Brakes, etc. $100  SOLD

Set of 8, 428 Std. pistons.  These come out of a 428 CJ core that I turned into a 462.  7 of the pistons are TRW stamped L2245 STD on the piston face, the 8th piston appears to be an OEM piston with ”428” cast vertically adjacent to the piston pin boss.  All the pistons appear to be in relatively good condition and appear to have very little time on them.  $125

428 CJ C8AE A1 Crankshaft Damper and C8AE-6312-D 3 Groove Crankshaft Pulley assembly.  These were pretty badly rusted when I got them so I did blast and paint them.  The damper still has some pitting making the timing marks hard to see so it will probably need a timing tape installed. They will work fine and the rubber on the damper looks to be in very good condition.  I would split these up if someone wanted.  $100

Vintage Mickey Thompson FE Valve Cover Set, These have a black Crinkle finish with some of the paint coming off.  Functionally they are fine but will take some work to make them look good again.  $100

I have a 428 stroked to 462 with a 63 low riser intake that runs rich based off plug and exhaust coloration, very black.  The engine runs and drives reasonably well other than the black exhaust.  It was put in the car in mid June and probably has 1500 miles on it now. When the break in oil was changed at about 500 miles the oil was quite black for the low miles on a brand new engine.  That is what really got me thinking about it being rich as it actually runs and drives fine but was concerned about the soot in the oil.  I recently added a wide band oxygen sensor which verified it is running rich, at idle it was reading 10.9 to 11.4.  Going down the road at cruise speed it pretty much stayed between 11 to 11.5 from 2000 to 2800 RPM.  Coasting only got it up to 11.6.  The Idle Mixture screws do not seem to be able to lean it out when idling.  I even turned them all the way in and it only come up to 11.7 t0 12.0.  Road testing with them screwed all the way in netted about the same during the cruise test 11.7 to 12.0.  Coasting now come up to 13 -14+.  Idle was actually a bit rougher than when the mixture screws were turned out a 1/2 turn, that is where they had been set prior to getting the oxygen sensor installed.

This is the setup.
428 bored .030 with 4.25 stroke kit from Survival.
9.8:1 Mahle Pistons
406 Heads with CJ size valves.
63 427 Cast Iron Headers
Comp 280H Cam
63 427 Low Riser 2 x 4 Intake
t-10 4 speed
63 Galaxie
Runs on 91 octane non oxy gas.
The oxygen sensor bung is welded in to the exhaust pipe about 3" behind the header outlet on the curb side of the car.  (427 cast iron headers)

The carbs are Quick Fuel 750 vacuum secondaries
Primary jets 72
Secondary jets 82
Primary idle air bleed 73
Secondary idle air bleed 33
Primary idle feed restriction 33
Secondary idle feed restriction 40

All float levels are between 1/8 to 3/8 up the sight glass.  Fuel pressure is right at 6.5 pounds.  It does idle reasonably well at 900-1000 RPM and vacuum at idle is 13-15".  I pulled the carbs and checked the throttle plates, the idle transfer slots were barely visible on the primary side and were not at all visible on the secondary side.  If I were to open the secondary enough to expose the idle transfer slot I think it would be running way over 1000 RPM, seems they have to be open quite a bit to expose the slots....

I had ordered some 68 and 70 jets for the primary side when I ordered the wide band oxygen sensor but have not put them in just yet after seeing how rich it is at an idle.  I'm thinking the problem is more to do with the idle circuit than the main jet size.  I did speak with Quick Fuel today and the person recommended changing the primary idle air bleed from 73 to 76 and the secondary idle air bleed from 33 to 45.  Seemed like quite a jump on the secondary but I did order some new idle air bleed jets tonight.

So a few questions....
Will the main jets do anything at all for the rich readings at idle? 
Does Quick Fuel recommendation on the idle air bleeds seem reasonable?
Other things that I may be missing....

I just got a C3AE- 9425-J aluminum 2x4 intake and did an initial mock with the other components. The other components are Quick Fuel carburetors, an original R Code 427 oval air cleaner and a billet Pertronix distributor.  I seem to have a few problems to resolve.....

1.  The Pertronix distributor is quite a bit higher than the Ford distributor so the bottom of the air cleaner hits the distributor cap.  It is going to take at least an 1.5" spacer to let it clear.

2.  The Quick Fuel carburetors throttle plates do not open due to interference with the holes in the manifold, both the primary and secondary plates.  I don't really want to start opening the manifold up as it is a NOS part....  I would expect that I can resolve this with a carb spacer which may be answer for the distributor issue too.

3. The air cleaner base contacts the float adjusting hardware on top of the bowls before the air cleaner flange contacts the carb gasket.  It almost makes it but it definitely is resting on the hardware.  I guess I can double or triple the gaskets if need be.  That would also help out on the distributor issue.  If there is a more elegant solution to this or if anyone knows if the current aftermarket air cleaner bases fit better than the one I would like to hear about it.

My question for this group has anyone been down this road before on a 63 Galaxie and how was it resolved.  I don't have the car here, still in storage, so I can't try to figure out how much spacing can take place before the hood won't close.  My biggest concern is getting the engine update done and installed and not being able to close the hood.  It would really be helpful to know how much spacing can be done before it is over the limit.

I have been looking at some of these 2 x 4 intakes (63-64 vintage) and have a couple questions.  Some have had the heat shield on the bottom missing......, how important is it to have this in place?  Will it get carboned up badly from oil splash or is it a minor/non issue?  If it is important to have, is there any chance this heat shield would fit off a more common cast iron manifold?  My application would be as street car in a 63 Galaxie.

Last questions does anyone know with certainty if a Pertronix Igniter III billet distributor will clear the carburetor and factory 2 x 4 air cleaner with this manifold?  I know the Pertronix is higher than a stock Ford distributor but am not sure if it is the height that would cause a problem or the diameter.

I have recently come across a set of C3AE-6090-C heads that I am considering purchasing for my 63 Galaxie.  My understanding is these heads would have originally been on a 63 406 engine.  The heads have been in storage for many years and do not appear to have been on a running engine prior, i.e. every thing is clean including the exhaust ports and combustion chamber.  The heads do have valve spring cups which I have seen mentioned for 406 engines.  I poked around the Internet to see what was out there on this particular head and noted there was some discussion regarding the small combustion chambers and they can potentially bump the compression up to a point that with today's pump gasoline that it can be difficult to control the pinging and detonation. 

My intent is to collect period correct high performance parts and assemble an engine to replace the original stock 390 Z Code that is currently in the car. At this point I would like to leave the original engine intact and not cannibalize it.  I'm in the early stages of collecting so do not have any information on block, pistons, crankshaft.  The goal would be to start with a 428 block or 360/390 if a 428 does not surface and then put a stroker kit in whatever block I end up with.

I have 2 questions on the heads.

1.  Where do these heads fall in the FE hierarchy as far as performance?  (I understand the Edelbrock heads would be easy and not that much dollars, just rather stick with period correct cast iron heads)

2.   Is the Internet chatter about pinging and detonation with pump gas due to the small combustion chamber a real concern, or can it be addressed during the engine build?

I do have some pictures I was going to post but the file size is to large and am not sure how to crunch them down to the allowable limit.

Thanks for any feedback you can give me.

So, it's my first day of retirement and I decided to ease into replacing valve seal guides on my brothers 66 Thunderbird 428.  What could go wrong.....  He bought it a few years back and it tends to smoke after idling awhile and in general is rather tired.  History on the engine is not known other than casting dates, casting numbers, and engine build tag seem to dictate it is all original and all there.  I am doing this in frame and took the #1 exhaust valve spring off just to make sure what was involved.  It had the old umbrella valve guide seal which was very brittle but intact.  The valve stem measures (with a caliper)  about .383 above the keepers and a little less down by the top of the guide.  The valve guide O.D. is about .668.  The shop manual I have says stem diameter should be .3741 to .3748 (3/8 I guess) and also says they come in .015 (.3861 to .3868) and .030 (.4011 to .4018) Oversize.  None of these dimensions really match up with what I measured other than the .015 oversize is close, but even that does not seem right.  While looking for a source for the valve guide seals I note that Survival lists the Viton seals for either 11/32 (.3437) or 3/8 (.3750) with either .530 or .562 OD for the valve guides.  I haven't looked else where other than the local Car Quest said they would have to special order them.  I was hoping someone could give me some direction on where to locate some seals that will fit and explain why my measurements don't seem logical.  This is obviously not a performance engine and am only trying to eliminate some smoking.  You will note I am a Newbie so let me down easy.

What I would really like to do is swap a really good running Z code 390 from my Galaxie in to the Tbird and make the 428 something to be proud of and put in my Galaxie.  Big Brother seems to think original is nice which I don't disagree with, so I doubt that will happen.

Thanks for any feed back you can give me.