It’s been years since I played with the original Innovate handheld a/f meter, it was a great help tuning my cars at the time.  It’s since crapped out and won’t function even with a new oxygen sensor.

I’d like to use a simple “gauge” style now, I’d tune up a couple cars but don’t plan to keep them in the car as they look out of place.  Any suggestions for simple gauges that you guys have used with success?  Just want to fiddle around a bit this summer and optimize tune in cruise/transition/WOT, cars run good but I know from experience that you can find quite a bit in the part throttle once you hook up a gauge.  Lots of choices now but wanted to see what is easy to use.

Found a 427 block so selling a 428 block I bought from Jay.  Nothing has changed, standard bore and sonic check are shown for the #17 block, 4E1 date code.  It does have the 3rib webbing.  Asking $950, same as I paid 5yrs ago.  Also have a 428 .010/.040 crank that needs a polish thst I’ll sell for $150.  Located in Richmond, VA, can ship if buyer arranges.  I do get to PA, WV, and NC at times and can help with delivery if convenient

Original ad
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4777.0

Had an opportunity come up and have to sell some parts.  I have a new set of TFS heads, still in boxes.

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-56417002-c00

These are $1036/ea at Summit but on backorder

$2000 shipped to CONUS, can send immediately

Just fiddling around with my TFS heads as it’s too hot to do real work.  Measuring out the heads to find minimum CSA and the throat size and %. 

Anyway, noticed this pretty pronounced ramp on the short side of the roof just as it’s turning into the bowl.  I’m no expert but I don’t think anyone would normally think a lump in the roof is normally a good thing.  Any theories on this?  Could it be just to shrink the port s bit and they found this was the least impactful location? 

Again, I don’t know much, only other thing I could find in a quick look was some pretty sharp edges on the short turn, almost like the cutters came in from each end of the port and met in the middle and put a little peak on the short turn.  My AFR 205s had this and knocking it down picked up 10cfm as that’s usually a pretty high velocity area. 

Using a bore gauge to check bearing clearances, I have a standard Mitutoyo bore gauge (about a foot long), not the longer Sunnen types where you can check #5 main but the gauge is still outside the block. 

I've already done the checks, but for future reference, do you guys torque down all the mains and just struggle feeding the bore gauge through the mains to take readings on #5/#4, or do you just torque up #5, check it...then install #4 and work forward so that you're not fighting the gauge through the main bores?   I did them all at once figuring I wanted it torqued as it would be assembled and flexing the block accordingly, but curious if it's OK doing it the other way. 

I've seen this announced in a few places, sucks to see it happen as I always thought AFR made a quality product (even though none for FE).  Sometimes these PE firms leave well enough alone, but majority of the time they start looking at the margins, and the only way a quality head like AFR can go is down.  Cheaper valves/locks/springs, larger stepover spec on the CNC'ing...they'll start chipping away at the quality IMO.  Seems like much of the aftermarket is going this way as the old brands are bought up.   

"Air Flow Research is excited to announce that Taglich Private Equity, LLC (TPE) has acquired AFR. TPE is a lower middle-market PE firm that specializes in recapitalizations, management buyouts, and majority equity investments, targeting manufacturing, business services and consumer products companies. Taglich looks to partner with management teams that can take advantage of their expertise and background in order to optimize their company's growth potential and create long-term value.

AFR’s management team and employees will continue to operate out of its Valencia, CA facility, continuing to provide high quality, performance cylinder heads, service, parts, and machining associated with the AFR brand. Nothing will change; it will be business as usual. As President, Board Member and significant investor, Rick will continue to be involved with the organization, ensuring the foundation that his family and employees have built over the past 50 years will flourish under TPE’s guidance.

Taglich and AFR are excited about the growth prospects both organically and through future acquisitions of other aftermarket performance companies."

Guessing most guys would be interested https://www.thedrive.com/news/37374/6-8-liter-windsor-pushrod-v8-coming-to-2022-ford-mustang-f150-report

Fairlane I picked up a couple weeks back had a nice Pro Systems 850 on it but owner didn’t include with the deal, but let me use it to get the car home as carb that was on it needed a rebuild.  I had an AED 750 HO on the shelf, basically new, so threw that on it.  It runs great but I’ve discovered it vapor locks BAD.  Did it the other day rolling 50mph on a 80* day, several times bad enough to stall the engine while running along at 2500rpm.  I pulled the air cleaner figuring it may be acting as a heat sink, it seems to have boiled over so bad it shot gas out the vents and hit the underside of the hood.  I insulated the fuel line and drove it today, vapor locked again in 66* weather with engine at 180* just hitting two stoplights. 

Just put the 850 back on it, ran the same exact route, stopped and let it get to 200* and shut it down to heat soak, let it sit for five minutes and started it.  Ran absolutely fine on the way home, so I’m convinced it’s the carb and not general heat soak issue with the fuel line specifically 

Anyone experienced this kind of issue going from a Holley to another Holley?  I have a thick insulating carb pad to try but I’m not confident, it’s doing it on very mild days while moving so can’t imagine this’ll be enough but we will see.  Any ideas what else to check??  Already checked fuel pressure, it was actually down to 3psi as fuel was boiling, 7-8 normally