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Topics - amdscooter

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1
Private Classifieds / Couple of Holley Double Pumpers 600 & 750
« on: July 06, 2019, 07:06:07 PM »
Hi all, first time posting in this section so if I'm committing any party fouls feel free to comment.

Went through some experimentation before I figured my 67 Lane liked a vacuum secondary carb. The 750 was too much and the 600 was close but no cigar as well. They are not doing anyone any good collecting dust. Both worked as expected at the time I removed them. Posters here have a better idea what these are worth than I do so feel free to shoot me an offer at amdscooter@gmail.com.

First up is a 600cfm 4776c. Bought August 2017, probably just over a year. have original box & will include everything in photo (new choke cable & brackets).



Second is a 750 bought probably 7 years ago. Was in the car at least 5 years. If I can locate the original box I'll send it, no promises though as I searched the garage today and no luck. Will ship with what you see in photo, carb only.


2
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Front Brake Dust Shields.. Yay or Nay?
« on: November 05, 2018, 05:15:34 PM »
The stock drivers side caliper on my 67 Fairlane went away and I decided to "upgrade" to a nice set of Wilwoods with drilled and slotted rotors as they are a nice match to my black wheels. Decided to reassemble w/o the dust shield until I could get them cleaned up and repainted. Looking at the setup now, I like the sans shield look.. any harm in leaving them off? This is just a street ride that rarely goes more than a few hundred miles on weekends.



&


3
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Ford 9" recommendations?
« on: November 29, 2017, 12:10:57 AM »
Been chasing an odd vibration back from the block and process of elimination is pointing toward the RE. I've been wanting to upgrade to a nodular Trac-lock anyway so now is a good as time as any. The folks I got my new drive shafts from have a pretty reasonbly priced setup here: http://www.justrearends.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=27ab1016-8b4b-4d1a-87ad-e5ea6256ecca. Seems like a good setup for my mild build at about $1150. Any recommendations for alternatives from the crowd?

Thx
-scoot

4
FE Technical Forum / What size jet for oil restriction?
« on: September 23, 2017, 11:46:36 AM »
I know, topic has been beat to heck and back. I searched the forum and it seems to be based on your particular needs as to how much restriction to use... so here's my "case". My 390 is pretty pedestrian, rebuilt .030 over mild 268H cam, melling HV oil pump, stock C7AE-A heads with viton seals and hardened seats. Stock rocker assembly. This was my first 390/fe build and I used a stock set of felpro gaskets for reassembly. I noticed the felpro head gaskets had a restriction on the oil feed. Thinking this was a mistake, I punched the hole out to match the size of the port. Needless to say, I get lots of oil up top. To add to my issues I recently installed  smaller oil filter to clear my sway bar, so at highway speeds I'm sure to be getting some bypass. After highway runs I now need to wipe the film of oil around the oil cap/breather and PCV valve on my valve covers.

For this build, what is a reasonable amount of restriction erring on the side of caution? Car is currently running fantastic and I'd really like this to be a onetime removal of the valve cover and rocker assembly's.. drop in the jet and be on my way.

5
Hi all, the stock C6 sitting behind my mild 390 is starting to go (odd vibration, front seal & perhaps stock torque converter going away)and I'm trying to plan ahead for future proofing when it comes out soon. The 390 I freshened up a few years ago is conservatively putting out 350hp and a hair over 400ftlp tq. When it comes out again I'll probably go aluminum heads and stroke it to one of the common (Survival, etc) kits to just over 400cid. Low compression so I can still run off pump gas. Car is a 67 Fairlane with 3.o gears out back. Just a fun cruiser that I enjoy rolling the throttle on occasionally... meaning when I can get away with it.  ;)

Tossing the question out there, what would you do?

1) Have the current C6 rebuilt with stouter internals?
2) Replace it with one of the off the shelf C6's like TCI?
3) Other suggestions? Race built C4?

-scott

6
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Nice 427 Cammer on a stand
« on: September 11, 2016, 01:47:43 PM »
Brought my 67 Lane to the FCA mini meet in Turlock CA yesterday.. thought I'd share a few photos of a nice 427 they had set up and running...










7
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Leaf Springs and Lugnuts...
« on: July 11, 2015, 12:30:58 PM »
Ya, real thrilling topic but I figured I'd toss it out there anyway.  ;)

1) Looking to get some new leaf springs for my 67 Fairlane GTA/390 c-6. Where would you guys recommend? I'd prefer if I can get the bushings and all associated hardware kitted up at the same time, done enough piecemeal ordering lately.

2) Just scored a classic set of 14" black spoke Torq Thrust D wheels from a local Craigslist ad. Got 5 wheels for $300 from a nice fellow Ford guy and he delivered them to my home.  I'm going to clean them up to replace the original steel wheels I'm running. The wheels came bare with no center caps or hardware. I ordered some NOS center caps from Ebay and a set of lugs. The lugs arrived and fit the bore in the wheel fine and are the correct 1/2-20 pitch. The shank is only 1/2" though and the bore on the wheel is easily more than twice that depth. I've never owned a set of these wheels do I don't know, is this typical or should I reorder another set of lugs with a longer shank?

8
FE Technical Forum / #8 Cylinder on my 390 is boogin' plugs
« on: May 10, 2015, 01:31:58 PM »


I'm almost afraid to ask... but #8 is having issues. All 3 plugs in the photo were pulled in the last month o so. The plug on the top in the photo only I pulled on Tuesday after coming back from a local show and shine and has about 40 miles on it. All the other plugs look fine and I had the heads refreshed (hardened seats, viton seals, etc.) maybe 2500 miles ago. What are the chances I'm looking at a valve seal gone rogue vs. rings or something worse? It'll be coming apart as this is obviously not going to fix itself, I'm fishin' for advise on what I should/could be looking for when I get into it.

Thought I'd also share this photo of a nice 64 Galaxy 445FE that showed up...



 ;)

9
FE Technical Forum / 6AL box, where did you mount yours?
« on: November 11, 2014, 10:17:18 PM »
So I finally broke down and got the 6AL (6425) box to mate up to my MSD 8595 Dizzy and Blaster3 coil in my 67 Fairlane 390. Most Mustangs and Fairlanes I have seen these installed in seem to be putting the box on the drivers side tacked to the front face of the shock tower, or in that area. Plenty of space there for sure, any downside such as cable length issues? I'm not planning on moving the coil from the top of the intake manifold at this time.

Thx in advance
-scoot

10
FE Technical Forum / Oil Dipstick keeps migrating out of tube.
« on: April 06, 2014, 06:12:40 PM »
I feel like a bit of a "dipstick" for even posting this question.. but too late now. ;p The oil dipstick on my 390 keeps coming out of the tube. I usually catch up after it is out a few inches. Not a huge issue but it does let oil get sprayed into the engine compartment and it's enough to collect on the frame rail. I can probably fix it with a small tie down or by flaring the tube, but I'm wondering what might be causing it to do this to begin with? If there is a real problem I'd like to address it. I have the crank case properly ventilated  (PVC valve is checked and fine) and don't think it's coming out from excessive vibration as the engine really does not shake any more/less than before and I never had an issue prior. I have a Melling HV oil pump and do keep about 1 quart extra oil in the pan. Any ideas? Should I sweat it or just put a leash the darn stick?

Thanks in advance
-Scoot

11
FE Technical Forum / MSD 8595 installation on 390 FE
« on: March 02, 2013, 10:53:09 PM »
Quick question for the crowd. My new Mallory 8595, blaster2 coil and plug wires arrived this week and I finally had some time today to install them. I got under the hood this afternoon, pulled the plugs, got the crank to TDC on #1 and yanked the stock distributor. I gooped up the cam gear with Cam assembly lube and went to installing the new distributor. It slipped in fine but was really tight when it got down to the gear mesh on the cam. So much so I had to tap it in with mallet. The distributor body itself rotates freely. Cranking the motor over with the coil disconnected, it's noticeably cranking slower than before. I cannot locate the info now.. but I seem to remember reading that there are at least 3 different sets of gears available for this unit. IIRC they are different for hydraulic & roller flat tappet cams. Mine came with what appeared to be cast iron.. but to be honest I'm not sure. I figured since my cam is very similar to the stock (Comp 268H hydraulic flat tappet) it would not be an issue. I'm pulling it out tomorrow regardless. So.. on to the questions.

Would using the wrong gear style cause the tight gear mesh I'm experiencing or should any of them fit the same? Do you guys think this is a defective unit? As I stated above the distributor housing rotates freely (like if you were twisting it to adjust the timing). And it's nearly perfectly centered in the intake bore.. no interference issues there and the old one fit fine as well. I seem to remember reading that the bronze gear worked with any type of cam, would it be worth it to get a bronze gear from MSD? If yes is replacement done by simply punching out the roll pin and installing the new gear in the same location with a new pin?   

 ???

12
Member Projects / 67 Fairlane GTA 390 cruiser
« on: November 17, 2012, 02:36:04 PM »
Howdy everyone! Many regulars are probably already are familiar with me haunting the technical forum for some time now with questions bout my 67 Fairlane GTA 390FE. Decided it's a good time to start a project thread as I'm well beyond just header questions.



Basic specs of my Fairlane:
390 GT 14 bolt heads C7AE-A
C6 column shift
Stock 9" rear with what I believe to be the factory 3.00 gears.
Factory AC
Power steering
Power Brakes


Some more background in my initial thread here: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=578.0.

390 FE details:
Heads fresh stock with Viton seals and hardened exhaust seats.
Short block .030 stock with oil mods, CJ oil filter adapter, Melling HV pump, chrome moly pump drive shaft, Comp 268H Cam(Intake and exhaust Duration @ .050" Lift:218, Valve Lift: 0.494, Lobe Lift:0.286) and Ford Racing Double Roller timing chain.
Springs, lifters, keepers, etc. from Comp K33-224-3 cam kit.
Edelbrock Streetmaster intake.
FPA headers.
2.5" pipes with Magnaflow mufflers.
Holley 4160c 600cfm carb. 
Stock distributor with Pextronix Flamethrower2 module and coil.



Here is the last video I uploaded for another member:
http://youtu.be/olhXxOS43lw

The bare tailpipes in that video are due to the muffler shop owner coming up one short on his order for my tailpipes. I was anxious to put the tune on the new motor so I took the car w/o them and will have them installed when I get back on the street. Since that video I've been sidelined by a leaking power steering pressure hose. Going to see if there is a better fitted replacement available next week. If not I'll order what I put on last time around from Autokrafters and "make it work" again until I find or make a better replacement. I also ditched the fan clutch for a flex fan due to clearance issues to the radiator. Been "fun" getting into my FE and learning lots as I go. A few questions to add to the ongoing list:

Ignition: Think I've got a decent handle on the total mechanical advance for the timing with 10 degrees initial and 36 degrees total mechanical advance.

1) With my setup should I use more initial advance if I can find a reasonable way to keep the total to 36?
2) What kind of spark gap would people recommend? I'm currently running the stock spec at .035. 
3) Timed vaccum port on the carburetor or full manifold as a source?

Carburetor: The street test runs I was able to do before the power steering line went to pot showed lacking performance off the line. Before my 390 was pulled I was able to get the stock 14" tire spinning from a stop pretty easily. I've checked the linkage and it "appears" to be opening the carb completely. Need to get my buddy over here to put his foot on the pedal to ensure it's pulling the linkage the same amount as I'm able to move from the engine compartment though.

1) Is the Holley 4160c 0-80457s 600cfm still appropriate or adequate for my 390 with new adds? Holley claims the carb is good for a v6 or small v8. Full specs on the carb here: http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R7948-5rev5.pdf Basic specs: http://www.holley.com/0-80457S.asp

Thanks!

13
FE Technical Forum / Distributor total mechanical advance
« on: November 09, 2012, 04:23:08 PM »
Looking for a lil help here. My 390 from this thread http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=578.0 is finally back together and old timing issues are coming back to haunt me. Relevant specs:

390 Fe .030 over bottom end stock.
fresh heads hardened exh seats.
Comp 268H cam and matched springs
Holley 625 carb
Edelbrock streetmaster intake
FPA headers w/Magnaflow 2.5" exh.

I'm using a re-manufactured Cardone distributor with a vac cannister and have replaced the points with a Petronix FF2 setup. Then options on my reluctor arm for total mechanical advance are 14L and 18L. With the reluctor set on 14L I need to keep my initial timing at 8 degrees or under to stay under 36 total mechanical advance. My new build hates 8 degrees initial and really likes closer to 15 degrees initial much better. But that amount of initial blows my total mechanical advance budget to hell and back. I've looked high and low for a stock 8L~10L reluctor arm.. no dice. I'm beginning to believe they really do not exist.  ::) I'd really like to avoid taking the breaker plate out and having the slots welded and ground to reduce total advance as it's money I'd rather not dump into this particular distributor if at all possible. I've tried putting some rubber hose over the pin to restrict total mechanical with limited success.. it's kinda wonky and not at all consistent. Sooo.. Is there a distributor on the market that has a wide range of reluctor plates readily available? I would not mind putting a HEI in to be honest and this would be as good as an excuse as any to get one. Any better options and opinions welcome.

thanks
scott

14
FE Technical Forum / head gasket oddities
« on: October 09, 2012, 10:10:50 PM »
I should be getting my heads back later this week so I was laying out the kit to get the rest of the motor put back together. Took a quick glance at the head gaskets.. then another longer look. Is there a reason why the head gasket in the Felpro engine kit has non-round cylinder bore?



As opposed to nearly every other manufacturer like Mr. Gasket?



Is this a big deal or should i just go ahead and install it?   ???

15
FE Technical Forum / Torque converter Q's
« on: September 30, 2012, 08:02:52 PM »
Read across several articles and sites and I figured I'd give the knowledge base here a try. I'm wondering if I should swap out my stock torque converter before reinstalling my motor.. seems like the right time if necessary. Quick specs.

390 "H" code 9.5-1 compression
Block .030 over. Other than some oil mods it's stock. 
Comp 268H cam.
Stock heads (fresh rebuild) with upgraded springs, etc. from Comp cam kit.
Edelbrock Streetmaster intake.
FPA headers
Holley 625cfm that will be replaced with Holley 700cfm or better shortly.
Stock C6 with 3.00 rear end gears. I'll probably be getting a traction loc when I can budget it in.
Use. 99% street with an occasional foot to floorboard spin tires on pavement moment.

Bottom line.. do I need anything more than the stock converter? I'd hate to leave a lot of performance on the table for such an easily available and currently easily swapped item that is not a huge $$ investment. If you think I should swap it.. recommendations?


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