My '68 Mustang needs a radiator overflow tank. I am tired the puked antifreeze on the garage floor after running it hard while tuning my carburetor/distributor. The coolant level is just above the top of the cooling tubes, but every once in a while, it will develop an air bubble and burp up on the garage floor.

I do not want a shiny aluminum billet tube tank or a gaudy chrome tank. My engine compartment is not concours,but I am looking for a factory look. I ground off the Edelbrock logo on my Streetmaster and aluminum water pump and painted them Ford blue. Chrome air cleaner, Powered by Ford valve covers and dip stick.

Are there any factory OEM tanks that would have a 1960's - 1970's look to them, that would fit in the under-hood space of a 1968 Mustang?

Clark

What causes the very stock 390 in my ’68 Mustang to shake at 1000 rpm, 1500 rpm and most actively vibration at 2000 rpm? This condition is a shake/vibration (steering wheel quivers) and does not feel or sound like a misfire, exhaust tone is clean and even.  Idles smooth at 550 rpm. At 3000-3500 rpm, no shake, no vibration.

To test the fan clutch and Ford seven blade fan for the source of this problem; I ran the engine with the alternator and power steering belts removed. The vibration remained.

This engine has always been a little rough. But after I installed a TKO 600 5-speed, 2000 rpm is the engine speed to cruise 65 mph on the highway. I am disappointed; I was expecting a butter smooth driving experience while cruising down the highway.

This engine is a budget rebuild, assembled by me in 1980. I started with a factory original 1968 X-Code (2V- 10.5 compression) 390 core I removed from a running ’68 GT Torino. I did not have the engine rotating components dynamically balanced…wish I had done this.

Here are some details:

Stock points distributor with new bushings. 16 degrees initial and 21 distributor degrees at 3300 rpm 18 inches of vacuum at idle. Stock Ford black with yellow ignition coil.

Pistons are 9.5 CR cast Badger P172 .030” over.    148 – 150 psi cranking pressure.

Stock rods were re-bushed and honed to fit.

Harmonic Balancer is original Ford.  Timing marks are in the correct position. Outer ring has not slipped.

Do not know what cam I installed. May be the stock 390 X-Code cam from original engine. Mild profile.

Ford 600 CFM carburetor C8OF 9510-0 with a newer Holley kit.

Cylinders Heads stock C8AE-H – Rebuilt in 1980.

Streetmaster intake – not modified.

Stock GT exhaust manifolds and stock exhaust system.

McLeod steel flywheel 30 pound. New last year. Does not have the external (428) counter weight installed…I am smarter than that.

Pressure plate and clutch as supplied with TKO600 conversion from Modern Driveline.

What causes this vibration and what will be required to fix it?  What next? Help Please? After 44+ years employment with one company and at age 68, I have finally retired and am looking forward to having time to be driving my Mustang....need to get it fixed.

Clark

Today I asked friends that are electronic techs to do the soldering to replace the xenon flash tube on a Snap On MT1261 timing light.
Problem is they cannot get the solder to melt and release the old tube. Tried 850 degrees F setting on the solder gun and cannot get the solder to go liquid.
Anyone done this before? What is this stuff?...silver solder? Sonic welded?



Back story on this situation is that I have borrowed this timing light from a friend. I was mapping the timing curve on my distributor and kept the timing light firing for a long time as I wrote down the rpm and degrees of advance. I think excessive heat built up and burned out the flash bulb. There was enough heat to unsolder the reflective shield behind the bulb.