I saw this item at PRI this year and decided to get one. 
The first picture is the original arrangement, which was fine.  The IW unit is pretty sweet though.  Needed a bit of massaging, but all good.

The topic of thread repair in aluminum has come up multiple times on this site and the other site... This video came out a few days ago on YouTube.  Very interesting and well done. Worth a watch.

https://youtu.be/jknMrFOGMOQ

I think this has come up before, but I can't find it...

Is there a difference in thrust flange thickness and diameter (the part of the bearing that fits into the machined area in the main saddle) when comparing Sealed Power 125M (FE) and 146M (Cleveland)?  And how do those compare to Clevite MS1010HK (Cleveland) in terms of fitment? 

Do certain thrust bearings need to be "massaged" more than others?

Thanks
Phil

Or is that an old wives tale?  If so, is it months, years, or decades?

Phil

So, santa brought me a bare Shelby FE block from DenBeste.  Steel main cap version.  It's going to be an FE Power cross ram beast for my Cobra at some point, but I digress.

Obviously, the block will need all the standard machine work, as well as having the cam bearings installed and all the gallery plugs installed.  (That's above my pay grade).  I live in CT and am considering boxing it up and sending it to our friend in Commerce Township, MI. to give it the TLC it deserves.  However, Danbury Competition Engines here in CT has a good FE reputation and I'd like to avoid the thousand dollars in shipping back and forth to Michigan if I can avoid it.  My question is this:

Other than the obvious steps of squaring up the decks and doing the finish cylinder honing, what do I want to make my local guy aware of?
Do the mains need to be honed?  The sleeves in my Pond block needed to be "set"...do these?  Should the cam bearings be pinned, or loctited, or both?  What cam bearings do I want?  Does the front cam bearing need to be clearanced for the distributor drive like in my Pond block?  Should the lifter bores be honed?

Are there any secrets regarding the oil gallery plugs that I should be aware of?  Are there plugs that can be inadvertently "overinserted" thus blocking an oil feed?  Any other modifications in anticipation of through-pushrod oiling for Jay's heads?

If I don't get a good feeling from this fellow at DCE, Joe Lapine, I may just send my new baby cross country, but maybe that's not necessary.

Phil

I'm curious how idle air control is managed in an IR injection setup.  I use a throttle body/port injection setup on my 482, which has an IAC motor...I found that the IAC is really helpful for tuning the cold start behavior of my engine.  As I'm planning on switching to Jay's IR crossram injection in the future, I got to wondering how idle air control is managed in an IR setup.

Thanks
Phil

Just found the list of entries on the hot rod site..

http://www.hotrod.com/news/1508-drag-week-2015-entry-list/

Scroll down and there's Jay and his trusty Mach 1.   Cat's out of the bag, Jay 

Was out for a drive in the Cobra yesterday (Pond 482).  No issues at all.  Went to start it this am, and the starter would only crank the engine about a quarter turn.  Thinking weak battery, I attempted a jump and no difference.  Again, the solenoid engages and the starter turns, with difficulty, about a quarter of one crank revolution.  It's not a hot timing issue because I've never had any problem in the past, hot or cold.

Fearing distaster, I put a half inch breaker bar on the crank nut and was able to fully turn the engine over by hand at least two full revolutions.  Obviously it wasn't easy, but it turned, so I'm confident it's not seized.  Also, I've had no oil pressure problems.

Before assuming a starter failure, anything else to check?  It's a RobbMc starter.  Due to a pretty good rear main leak, oil has been getting spun up onto the nose of the starter.  Don't know if that means anything to anyone.  Just thinking out loud, maybe oil has gotten on the solenoid contacts and limited the current to the starter motor?