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Messages - Cyclone03

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
1
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Broken small block Ford Scat crankshaft
« on: October 14, 2021, 10:31:18 PM »
Peanut gallery comment.
Is it possible that the small nick above the end of the key in the first picture created a stress riser in the hardened surface that continues into the center?

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Jay's Intake Adater, On a Diet
« on: October 14, 2021, 10:09:47 PM »
Nice work.
The “heat riser” area can be cut away if your heads have them blocked. You could also remove material from the side of the pushrod passages maybe just cut them away.

How much weight have you trimmed away so far?

3
Call Mission Auto Parts in San Antonio,Ask for Danny.
They are true blue Ford guys and do FE’s.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rear Main Seal Leak
« on: August 09, 2021, 08:40:09 AM »
I fought a “rear main leak” for years.
I had another problem that had me tear the engine down .On reassembly I looked at the 3 surface junction of head block and intake. When I put the head gaskets on I put just a dab of TA31 on the top and bottom of the gasket at that junction ,then did the same with the intake install as well as using TA31 for the China walls. It seems to have worked no drips on floor going on 4 years now.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: What the heck is going on in the oil pan?
« on: August 08, 2021, 01:33:23 AM »
The oil pressure by pass talk reminded me of an oil system discussion I had with a BOSS 302  road racer I know. In the days before drysump systems were allowed in trans am racing Ford tried many ideas and pump/pick up ideas to make the engines live. Many early ideas of course came from the Gt40 program and NASCAR as well. One idea that my friends group tried with the BOSS engines was to separate the bypass from the pump,like was done with the side oiler moving the bypass to the back of the block.
One solution I found interesting was to plumb a regulator at the rear  main oil gallery above #5 main bearing with the bypass oil line entering the pan on the rear left. Did it work? For a wet sump they felt the pressure was a bit more constant and the bearings looked better but it wasn’t so much better that it changed their inspection routine. The oil temp was down a bit though so they kept the set up with a change. They moved the regulator to the external line coming after the oil cooler,again with the return entering the oil pan on the left side.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: What the heck is going on in the oil pan?
« on: August 06, 2021, 03:25:09 PM »
Maybe the Great FE Oil Pan and Windage Tray Comparo is in order... ;D

This is a great idea , go ahead and task the Great FE Comparo R&D team this project.

We’re waiting…LOL

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Toploader Troubleshooting
« on: August 03, 2021, 03:01:30 AM »
Sounds like the “blocking rings” (synchros ) are worn. Are they loose or nearly touching the engagement teeth of the gear?
They should not rock either.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Opentracker products for Fairlane?
« on: July 15, 2021, 12:59:55 PM »
“Cheater” is the uppers.
Roller spring perch bolts to the upper control arm.

9
Sadly the old Innovate message forum got nuked. (Innovate O2 indicators) .
10 years  ago a poster with the handle “tuner” had excellent insight on tuning Holley and Holley based carbs. He included some theory as well as practical application.
The cool thing was his insight help one “see” the function of each circuit and how the overlap,transition,one to the next effected driveability.

I also learned the whole carb too big on the street thing is sort of a myth ,but a small carb is easier to tune on the street because there is a lot less to explain. Idle is idle,main is main jet, power is ….well main jet.

Now a big carb it’s IFR,IAB,idle mixture screws,Main Jet MAB,PVCR,PV,secondary …..you get the idea.

At the time the 850 Demon came on a brand X crate motor,and everybody that cared tossed them because they sucked driving around town. I got mine for $50.
I ended up with every hole drilled and threaded for replaceable jets,IAB,MAB,PVCR,IFR .
I tuned that thing to 18mpg in my FE Mustang and 12.0s in the quarter.
It ran great.

I also learned that back in the olden days hot cars came from the factory.
The best OEM tuned Holleys are the last ones fitted from the factory. Look at the ‘vette 3310 or the CJ 735,later the 351c carb. You will find excellent low throttle angle tuning and driveability in those carbs.

Three modern tools will teach ,if you pay attention ,which area to tune. O2 indicator,vacuum gauge and tach.
WOT can still be done with a drag strip and reading plugs but drivability can be nailed with feel and tools.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Opentracker products for Fairlane?
« on: July 15, 2021, 10:01:20 AM »
That’s the reason for the roller lower control arm and some type of free movement on the strut rod. No bind.
You can add 1/4” of shim to the forward upper control arm bolt to preset caster without binding the lower control arm. Don’t go more shim unless you have soft upper shock bushings or bearing. IIRC the Fairlane uses a stud upper shock so again a softer bushing.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Opentracker products for Fairlane?
« on: July 15, 2021, 09:13:30 AM »
For a street/ drag car OpenTrackers roller perch, roller lower control arm and strut rod bearing or ball conversion at the least will give the best bang for the buck as far as feel and performance.

The spring perch frees up the spring and shock , you will feel the difference.
The roller lower control arm bushing and strut rod work together . They free up the bind from the lower bushing and allow more caster to be dialed into the suspension .

Add the 1” upper control arm drop , good (not KYB) shocks, they are too harsh in compression and light in rebound, Bilstein Sport in front,streets in the back (for a driver)  and a 1” front sway bar and you will have a great driver set up.
If you want to lean more to drag racing use a stock (small lol) sway bar and an adjustable shock.

When you have it aligned tell them (demand) 0 Camber (+0/ -1/2) both sides the same! Caster ,manual steering +3 1/2 Power steering + 4 ( up to 5 1/2 if tire does not eat the front of the fender) again both sides the same. Toe easy, 1/8” in.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: More FE Power Cylinder Head Dyno Results
« on: July 12, 2021, 02:49:01 PM »
Just sitting here re reading this post and I got thinking how exciting a back fire would be if it was a port injected intake and the top blew off…..
That would sure test the RPM limits of the valve train and bottom end!

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: Typical FE Oil into coolant issue.. Or not.
« on: July 01, 2021, 08:55:10 PM »
Don’t have the problem yet,just prepping for it.
I’m running a hydraulic roller with pushrod oiling to Brent’s roller rockers can I just plug the passages near the cam bearings. The rockers do allow for shaft oiling.

14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: clutch and brake pedal rebuild
« on: June 11, 2021, 08:00:21 AM »
Company called “Mustang Steve “ has a roller bearing conversion that works very well. You might take a look at that. Check the diameter of the through shaft the kit may work. Or you could make your own.

15
If my FE gets that internal leak I would block those feeds off completely and go with push rod oiling.
I’m almost 100% blocked now running a hydraulic roller and Brent’s non adjustable rockers.

It’s said that alignment techs are forced to go by 55 year old bias ply tire alignment settings due to liability worry’s .

The number is 0- +1/2 camber, +3-4 castor (both the same) 1/8 toe in. Works great on street driven Mustangs.

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