Like the tittle says I’m in need of the mid to lower rear section of the quarter panels. Left and right.

I look at it a bit backward,I want the fan off going down the road. TStat 185,off temp 190 on 195,fan 1. Fan 2 On 200 off 205. Fans run off a trianarry switch with AC on so fans only come on when high side pressure is high.

Falcon, it’s out.
Owner decided to go with a new rotating assembly with 4.0” stroke so for now we are going that direction.
The 400m/3.75 stroke assembly would be useable with 28oz Dampers and Flywheel as well as correct balance.

1,3,7 firing order ….
Replaced plug wires and cap with HEI type…..no change.
MSD installed no change.


New info,engine is out.
Pan is off.
It looks like the counter weights have been turned to clear the block,and they are close.
It looks to have a fairly large counter weight at the center main.
No Mallory.
The piston bottoms have had metal removed.
Big end of the rods do not look to have had metal removed.
Right on the edge of the rear counter weight there is what looks to be an oval. I can’t tell if it says Ford.

Isn’t SCATS logo an oval as well?
So Internal balance?
External balance?
Next week I’ll know.

Ok right at the top I did not assemble the engine it is supposed to be a 408 stroker the owner purchased the short block assembled by an unknown party. The goal of the 71Boss 351 is as stock appearing as possible so stock exhaust manifolds,complete stock exhaust stock numbers correct damper.

The damper has had the offset weight machined out so the Assumption was the engine is internal balanced so a non counter weight flywheel was purchased.

Now a few problems I’ve found.
First on first fire up it leaked like a sieve, upper half of rear main backward….
Got that fixed and started again.
Setting floats
Verify idle
Alt charging
Set base timing
Rolled throttle off idle to about 2000-2500 and the engine just chugged and shook…..
I looked at timing again a verified it was only 25-30deg total.

After talking with an engine builder friend he tossed out rotor phasing. I set up to test and at base 15 deg the rotor was well past the No.1 post….hum.
The vacuum is disabled on this correct,less Pertronics, date coded distributor so the timing plate was locked incorrectly.It is important to the owner that the correct date coded vacuum can be in place even though it doesn’t work.
I reset the phasing and frankly it was much better I was able to verify total timing all in at 2800,36deg.
But still that growl /shake ….

In the past I have mistakenly installed a 28inoz flywheel on a 50inoz engine it didn’t growl but did feel like it was going to jump off the jack stands  at 3000rpm.

I’m open to any suggestion at this point.
I feel the engine needs to come out but just want to ensure it’s not a tune issue of some kind.
Easy things first.
I’m going to pull the starter and ensure there is no counter weight on flywheel,I put it on but didn’t take note because ,well “that’s the right one”.
Next pull clutch…..
Beyond that any ideas?

Thanks for your help I know there are some very knowledgeable builders here that’s why I’m asking.
 

“Free valve” is very interesting ,I’m imagining the valves truly following the piston at overlap. Intake full open BTDC then closing slightly when the piston is at the top of its stroke then chasing it down the bore.

The Dyno time playing with that technology ……

Oh boy a Pro Stock Paul thread!
I actually think it was Paul’s dad who came up with and built a set up for a race engine ,but getting it all to work in the 70’s ,more than once was a problem.
Think about it , at 7000rpm the valves have to cycle about 66 times per second. I don’t think at the time air bladders small enough to fit could maintain the 400psi needed to control the valves.

Now the real advancement would be replacing the camshaft with a computer that would signal electronic solenoids to open and close the valves. No cam,rockers,pushrods maybe not even a spring.