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Messages - RJP

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FE Technical Forum / Re: EMC report
« on: October 04, 2019, 06:05:17 AM »
Thanks very much to all of you for the kind words.  It was good to go back to the contest after 10+ years of watching it from a distance.  It is a great experience with a bunch of good people.  As with all of this, the relationships last longer than the few minutes in the spotlight.  Happy to win it, but long term friendships and mutual respect for the other guys will stay around for the long haul, and that is what matters in the end.  I appreciate the support of this forum. The FE ruled this time!!!
...and the next...and forever!  Congrats x10 on a job well done.

FE Technical Forum / Re: Dyno time...what to expect
« on: August 27, 2019, 12:35:58 PM »
BOutlaw, You have a P/M

I tried restricting rocker oiling to .043"...Burnt up the #1 exhaust rocker adjuster and push rod.  I now use .062" drilled/threaded plugs.

FE Technical Forum / Re: An old Nascar Starliner...
« on: July 30, 2019, 12:22:44 PM »
So freaking cool. And I thought Poteet's starliner at bonneville was my favorite...this could put that in contention...
Nahhhh...Poteet's Starliner is still the king of kool...And it is Ford powered.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ready to run 8595 different builder
« on: July 16, 2019, 03:03:12 PM »
Interesting thought. I’ve run Pertronics before.
What do you worry about with Duraspark?
I’ve had a module go bad before but the system seems pretty simple to me. Could have a spare module just as easy. The dizzy seems pretty bulletproof.
I have no worries about the Duraspark as I've never ran one. Actually I have a couple of 'em in stock but never had a chance to play with one. The 2 D/S units I have are for 460s and I only have one car powered by a 460 and it too uses a Pertronix.  Ironically that Pertronix was found in a wrecking yard back in the early 90s so I have no idea how old it is or how many miles are on it. It still works perfectly. I like the Pertronix as you can use a  distributor with worn bushing that would normally create timing & dwell problems with a point type ignition, with the Pertronix it doesn't matter. With the D/S you would need to carry a spare module if one goes bad on the road. Points will get you home and are a lot cheaper.

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Ready to run 8595 different builder
« on: July 16, 2019, 12:49:28 PM »
Marc, If road trips are in your future I would recommend a simple Pertronix. In the rare event one fails it is a 10 minute job to swap in a set of points/condenser into your stock distributor. I've run Pertronix for the last 25+ years and only had 2 failures of the 5 cars I own, all have Pertronix. One failure was my fault as I ran a reduced voltage to one. They require a full 12 volts. And yes I do carry a set of points and condenser with a ballast resistor installed and wired to easily switch over just in case.

FE Technical Forum / Re: I broke my toy in Detroit!!!
« on: July 01, 2019, 04:27:47 PM »
To add:. The only time I've seen a Ford cast crank break at the #1/5 journal such as yours is when someone beat the harmonic balancer on with a hammer or if the engine came out of a wreck with severe front end damage [everything stuffed into the front of the engine] For example; A friend of a friend had a 400 Cleveland type Ford and beat the H/B on with a heavy hammer, crank lasted 11K miles before it broke in the same fashion as the one pictured here.

FE Technical Forum / Re: I broke my toy in Detroit!!!
« on: July 01, 2019, 04:13:43 PM »
I will say Keith you have one thing right and that is to know what a shops abilities are. As for the rest I never bought into he is a chevy guy and can only work on chevy's. Every engine has its own oddities to know about, but some things don't change much. If  you cannot look at a sonic map and off set bore something correctly that is the fault of the guy doing it. You look at the map not offset #2 to the left. Is like the doctor cutting off the wrong leg.

I can say this I grow up around Fords, worked in a machine shop that bleed ford blue, built street to race and everything in between. They even put a set of Cleveland Hi port heads on a SBC block and raced it in a dirt modified. Don't ask why...

Built a lot of Chevy's, Some BOP, Mopars, Flat head fords, and farm tractor engines from 1920. A good shop can do it all and has the sense to ask and find out when needed. Boring cylinders and balancing crankshafts does not require an FE guru. Just a guy that knows his stuff, has the right equipment, and is interested in doing quality work.

Not the OP, but to answer about the balance question that Eagle rod is a good 40 or so grams heavier on the big end so that is adding 80+ grams to the bob weight. Short answer is that is way too much to not get the crank balanced.
Was that Al Liest's shop in San Mateo?

Member Projects / Re: 410 Street Build
« on: June 19, 2019, 06:57:33 PM »
The crank is at the machine shop.  8)

I sold a marine 351w to a gentleman from the Redding area and asked if he knew of the shop I wanted to send the crank. He said yes and not only that, had previously had them do work on his Y-block and was very happy with the work.
Anyhow, I asked him if he would mind delivering it to the shop for me and he was happy to. Nice kid.
I took a little off the price of the 351 for his trouble.

So, waiting to hear back if the crank is salvageable.
410bruce, What shop did you send your crank to? I'm in the Bay Area and the last crank grinder just closed up shop a week or so ago. I know of no shops in my area that grinds cranks which would mean I will have to travel to get a crank done. Any help? TIA

FE Technical Forum / Re: Tune Changed Overnight
« on: June 18, 2019, 10:59:26 AM »
Intermittent lifter ticking after a hard run can be oil aeration. Check your pan for correct capacity, proper baffling and pump pick up [cracks, pinholes etc]. And don't overlook the pickup to pump flange gasket.

The DRCE was allowed as a way to make GM competitive with  Bob Glidden. NHRA allowed all sorts of stuff on he GM that other makes were not allowed, like wider bore spacing and heads that are much different in appearance.  Then on the cars they allowed radical wheelbase alteration and longer front ends on the front wheel drive stuff which somehow stayed for the Camaro/Firebird.
Ford never got those advantages and poor Dodge either. At the time of the nitrous scandal they had to use 4.8" bore space and wedge heads. Afterwards they were using GM engines (20 years before the rules allowed) until the Hemi99 came out.
NHRA also saddled Glidden with 300 lbs more weight than everyone else...To make things "Fair" ::)

Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Finally a brake upgrade
« on: June 04, 2019, 12:00:51 PM »
Back like 20+ yrs back, before the blower motor in 2000, I had driven the car to a buddies place one evening.  No problem.  I went to drive the car to work the next day and the pedal fell to the floor backing out the driveway.  Huh?   I unscrew the lid and it's DRY.  Bone dry.  How did it work fine the night before?  I installed the present single pot and it's been fine since then.  I put all new wheel cylinders on it before I even started driving the car.  Still don't know where all the brake fluid had gone?
I learned the hard was about "new" wheel cylinders. Brand new out of the box, installed with no problems...worked just fine for a few weeks. Sitting in line to get into a car show the brake pedal goes to the floor. WTF? Released the pedal and reapplied and braking was back to normal. No more problem until later and the pedal goes to the floor once again. Checked for leakage at all 4 corners and no brake fluid visible. OK, what now? Seeing that I was 300 miles from home I chanced it and drove home without any further problems. Got home and into it and found that one of my brand new wheel cylinders had a rubber piston seal installed backwards. It sealed, most of the time but there was no radial seal against the wall of the cylinder. I now inspect all wheel cylinders before installing.

Is the control valve attached to the drag link to the appropriate depth?  Generally, you center the steering box, thread the valve to the link until just a few threads are showing or as close to that as you can where you don't have to move the pitman arm very much.  It should go without saying that if the box isn't centered and you don't fully thread the valve that you will run out of steering in one direction (sorry, can't recall which direction).  Most of the time, it's not a very precise operation and the difference is within the design of the box and the tie rod adjustment.

As to the hard steering;  Are you double damn sure you have the hoses from the valve to the cylinder routed correctly?  Normally, you'll get a wild steering wheel when they're backward, but it's possible you just end up fighting hydraulic pressure.  There is a bias adjustment on the control valve.  To center the valve, you remove the cap on the outside end, remove the ram rod from the frame bracket, start up the engine and observe the movement of the rod.  If the control valve is properly adjusted,the rod will not move.  If it drifts out or in, you have to adjust the valve.  It doesn't take much turning of the nut to affect the valve bias.

The power steering system is made by Saginaw...yeah, a GM system used on Novas and 62-82 Corvettes and others.  The guy who engineered that system is Jim Shea.  He's still around and has published just about an entire library of how to work on the system and every engineering specification.  Google him.
Thank you. This is tremendous help for me adjusting the p/s on my 66 Fairlane.

Thanks Rory :-)

The one I was lookin at appears to be a hodge modge of parts

Easy way to tell if the carb was OEM on BBC 396/375hp or 396/425hp Corvette is the primary boosters have a little tab on each of the boosters on the the outside diam. These supposedly are flow diffusers to correct a minor flow problem on the BBC dual plane manifold. Only the OEM 3310-1 uses down leg boosters and are excellent carbs to work with. The fuel metering is more precise as these carbs had to pass emission tests, at least here in Calif. at the time.

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