Ok ... I just checked the temp range of Dow Corning 732 clear. It is good up to 356 degrees F with occasional spikes up to 401 degrees. Then I researched typical intake manifold temperatures. That varies but generally speaking they should be around 250 degrees F at the upper end so the Dow Corning 732 should be good. I also found that the Dow Corning 732 Black has a slightly higher temperature rating ... maybe around 450 degrees F. I will see if I can find my receipt and return the "Right Stuff" back to the store.

I just finished watching Brent's video on intake installation. I'm wondering what type of silicon was used. I have purchased a small tube of "The Right Stuff" which is supposed to be what a lot of manufacturers are using now. I noticed that he placed a thin layer on the gasket ( both head side and intake side ) around all of the ports and water passage openings. Is this still a good practice with the regular Fel Pro gaskets ( they come in the set ) ? I also am aware that some still use the Permatex Red Spray on both sides and don't have any leaks. The gaskets have a slight protrusion or raised ridge on one side and I don't know if the silicon would interfere with that. This is primarily a street motor ( 410 with stock CJ heads and a Performer RPM intake ). I did the test fit by laying the gaskets in place and simply dropping down the intake in the proper location. I got lucky. The top surfaces where the valve cover gaskets rest is perfectly even on all 4 corners while the intake rests on the gaskets. What would be the torque value on the bolts in this situation ?         Bob

Thanks Brent. I now feel more confident on what I have. My bolts are 7/8 long but they should still be ok. I will go to 40 to 45 Pounds with some Loctite.

I just installed my new cam. The motor was previously re done and when I got the car from the deceased owner's parents the motor was ready to drop in. However, I was not pleased with the cam that the engine builder used so I changed it. The block has a casting code of C7ME with no additional numbers or suffix letters. I am now re installing the cam retaining plate and the bolts that the engine builder used looked like original bolts. They were Grade 5 with some Ford Blue paint and they were 7/16 x 14 and 7/8 inch long with no washers ( 5/8 wrench needed ). They did have some sort of sticky stuff on the threads and I'm guessing that it was a thread locker. The previously installed timing chain ( still new ) is a double roller type. The holes in the block for these retaining bolts look to be original. Based on what I have been reading I'm not sure if this was typical. What torque spec should I use for these bolts ?

Thanks Frank. I'll do some homework now.                   Bob

Ok, I'm getting closer to getting my car on the road. After taking the advice of those here whenever I originally posted my Horsepower question I am now wondering about the oiling system. Here are the new particulars:..

66 Fairlane GT ( Toploader )
3:50 Detroit Locker
410 setup ... 390 ( + .030 ), 428 crank
Icon 410 pistons
428 CJ factory heads with new undercut valves ( original factory sizes ) no extra porting
FPA custom built ceramic coated headers with 2 1/2 inch exhaust
Howards Rattler Cam
       Intake .548 281 duration, Exhaust .548 289 duration
       Lobe Separation 109, Intake C/ L 103
       Duration at  .050 ... Intake 227, Exhaust 235
Edelbrock Performer RPM with Holly 750
Pertronix Ignitor II centrifugal advance
Considering my anticipated usage ( cruise ins, car shows, with occasionally throwing my foot into it and maybe once or twice a year making a couple of passes at the strip ) I am wondering about the adaptor that the oil filter screws into. My current part number indicates an original older piece ( C0AE 6884 A ) and it looks like I have a stock oil pan. Is it worth my while to upgrade to the later version 428 CJ adaptor piece which is supposed to have bigger holes and should I upgrade the pan considering my anticipated usage ? Any thoughts will be welcome. Thanks.               Bob

Ok ... new plan. I just spent about an hour on the phone with a good friend who has done a lot of Ford racing over the years. The new game plan is to give up on the idea of changing the camshaft. We think that I can wait for a while longer to get the car on the road and go all in on the motor that I have. Step #1 will be to contact FPA and order the 16 bolt headers since they will work with a variety of heads. Then it gets more complicated but I should be able to still wind up with something pretty strong. I was originally going to hold out for a 427 or 428 based motor but this current motor ( 416 ) is not too far off the original 428 ( 426 in reality )... a 10 cubic inch difference. I should be able to wind up with something pretty respectable.

UPDATE ... now I have some more info ... and still need some more input. My rocker system does have the adjustable setup with some sort of rocker rails that are highly polished ( shiny ). The dimensions of the shaft are as follows: .838 overall diameter, .569 inside diameter, about .135 wall ( material ) thickness. I currently have the factory reproduction CJ exhaust manifolds. I am considering the upgrade to FPA headers but I have another decision to make. I have the GT 14 bolt heads and at some point in the future I would upgrade the heads for sure to the 16 bolt CJ or aftermarket heads. I heard from one of our Fairlane club members who said that he ran the 16 bolt FPA headers on the GT heads utilizing 8 bolts and they sealed up for him without any major issues. Does anyone else have any experience with this ? Now for the next issue ... I am planning on obtaining the rocker rail end supports to firm things up a bit. Now for the big question ... I need a bigger cam to get where I want to be ... mid 13's with a really bumpy idle so it sounds good in a parking lot. Any recommendations ? like around a .560 or slightly higher lift with a lot more duration and a slight change in the lobe separation ( for more chop ) ? I want to place my order for headers as soon as I get some feedback form y'all, and also order the cam and end brackets as well. Thanks.             Bob