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Messages - Coreyc619

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« on: October 16, 2018, 07:29:56 PM »
Corey, is there any type of 'shelf life' for motor oils? I have a stock of Rotella that is probably 5+ years old and was wondering how long it would be good sitting on a shelf.

I'm not an oil expert, but I showed enough interest to get to work with the guys that are for a few weeks a couple years ago.  One of those dudes has since retired and now makes several hundred thousands a year simply consulting overseas. With that said, I know enough to say, that I don't think so.  I still recommend agitating the oil container before adding it to anything, if you want to take full advantage of the contents.

If your container was sealed or stored appropriately, it is extremely unlikely that you lost anything vs the day you bought it. The components of motor oil wouldn't flash off or change shape at any temperature below the boiling point of water.  So whatever you originally bought, is still there.  Some of it just may of settled out by now - or as we say "decanted".  There is a reason why most modern sports cars with oil coolers have a thermostat or some other means of maintaining an approximate oil temp of ~220°F.  The (any accumulated) water leaves, but the components of the oil don't change shape... Or "break down" if you're watching a quaker state commercial.  It's a narrow window however. Common motor oils will deform around 240°F.  This is where synthetic comes in, although useless in 99% of all applications it is used in.  We used to run royal purple in our stuff, but now we run Chevron products.  It wasn't to save a buck - it was because tests right off the truck showed water and other crap already in it.  A problem we don't need.  Forgive me for my education (chemistry is one of my degrees) - but oil's biggest enemies are heat and light.  If you had it on the shelf on your garage, shake it (warm it if you're paranoid, that increases solubility) and run it.  If you stored it on the deck of your beach cabin, chunk it.

To brag a hair... One of my compressors has been running 24/7 since  March of 1991. Small details invested into the bulk lube/seal oil care have certainly contributed to this.  It's the same thing with what we do here.  FE guys are all about the details... I love it.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: affordable oil to use for a run and dump
« on: October 15, 2018, 10:15:25 AM »
Rotella or Delo are both fantastic oils for the money.  Delo is a little better these days, based on our oil analysis lab at work.  Threads on the Bobistheoilguy forum seems to reflect similar results. When comparing/trying to choose between two similar motor oils, a really big clue comes right under the cap.  Typically, if quality control/oil purity is a primary concern, you will find an air tight seal on the container you have to peel off.  Delo has one.  Rotella does not.  For your purposes, either would be fine.  Since your cam/lifters have already "mated", you are not really at risk for damage here unless you run some vegetable oil or something like that.  Another commonly overlooked tip:  SHAKE the oil jug before adding all of its contents.  Additives will settle out and rest on the bottom of the jug, rather than making it to the inside of your motor.  We "turn over" our bulk oil tanks on our large equipment quarterly in an effort to extend reliability/MTBR (mean time between repair).

I realize the thread is kind of old, but should this turn up in a search for someone else later - had to add some info.  I run Delo in everything I own.  Motorcycles, lawn mowers, hot rods... everything.

3
Clutch fork - any reputable transmission vendor, then weld a piece of flat bar down the inside of the concave side to stiffen up, if quick shifting is desired
pivot ball - in the linkage or in the bell?  Either way, I've always gone with fresh OEM parts in these areas, with no issues.
adjustable linkage - I made my own, and bought heim joints/lock nuts to put on each end.  This was a vast improvement in my case.  Half hour project if you have the material on hand.  I used 3/8"  threaded heims and bought a LH die so I could adjust it without unbolting one end.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: Any Nitrous FE's Here ?
« on: October 12, 2018, 12:09:15 PM »

I'm not on Yellow Bullet, but I'm guessing Monte is Monte Smith? Sadly Monte passed away about a year and a half ago.

Monte Smith helped Dave Schroeder tune his Nitrous assisted Corvette, which Dave took to a sentimental Drag Week win in 2017 after Monte's passing. There is also a long running Monte Smith Nitrous thread on the Moparts forum that they have saved. I haven't been through it, but likely some good info there too.

Yes sir, that would be him.  That is indeed very sad, and quite a loss.  It's rare to find people with the qualities he seemed to have.  I really appreciate how consistently generous he was with fellow racers/car guys, simply because he loved what he did and wanted to help others enjoy it too.  I've been "out of the game" for several years, so I would not have known that he passed. 

That's a really cool story about Schroeder's vette.  Always enjoy seeing stuff that like that go down, especially when those involved are still grieving...  I still can't shake this solemn feeling myself though.  Thank you for the heads up.

5
If you don't want to use the spacer/adapter, you use the early model input shaft length.  I have a home grown modified 3550 on a Lakewood bell, with a spec 3+ in my F100.  I originally had to use a spacer as well because the late model input shaft  was longer than the top loader stuff, apparently. This was back when the 3550 was the only "street oriented" upgrade stick shift fox mustangs had available, so the dimensions seemed to tailor to that crowd with no other available options.  I did this conversion roughly 20 years ago, on a truck I was still 2 years too young to drive yet.. so I don't remember exact measurement differences etc.  I will say, that my Lakewood was concentric right out of the box when checked with a dial, and I used ARP bolts for clutch and flywheel (centerforce billet), right out of the summit catalog.  Never had a single problem with any of the above.  Used blue Loctite and a torque wrench to install, like a good little boy. That centerforce clutch was pure garbage though.  I've since seen pencil sharpeners that would probably overwhelm that thing... Pilot bearing came from local parts house, although I prefer a bushing over a bearing these days.  Seems to shift a little better - go figure - they had it right the first time.

I upgraded to 26 spline input this last time, and got the top loader/early model length input so I could get rid of the spacer.  I did this both for input strength, and to cheat my shifter away from the bench seat a hair.  I.E. - you could go either route without giving up anything, but you may want to consider where either/or lands your shifter.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Any Nitrous FE's Here ?
« on: October 11, 2018, 04:21:26 PM »
And, you asked for pics so..  This is my plate, and product engineering fuel supply/plumbing etc from the last time I used this thing.  Been a minute..

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Any Nitrous FE's Here ?
« on: October 11, 2018, 01:12:51 PM »
Sorry about your buddy, Keith.

Something I've gotten into the habit of doing with nitrous, is to run a wide band O2 with a Lean Safety Shutoff switch.  The last one I bought, came from Dave's Nitrous Outlet.  Basically, you input a value for whatever you don't want the A/F to go beyond - let's say 13:1 for grins - If the WBO2 sees 13.00009:1, it interrupts the power to your nitrous system (I use the WOT switch's ground, interrupt it and kill the system OR if my timing retard is activated by WOT, I take out the nitrous solenoid itself), and saves your bacon on the motor.  I stole this idea from a friend, and fortunately never needed it.  I personally witnessed it save his engine twice due to electrical gremlins.  He was trying to use the Lingenfelter two step when it first came out, with a progressive N2O controller, and those two flat would not get along (LS platform). 

Also, I think nitrous is exempt from the "rich is safe" rule of thumb.  Some say it can actually make things worse... All I know is, I bought that advice and it has served me well. You want your air/fuel to be correct at all times for the combo, what you DON'T want, is too much timing.  TIMING is the key.  I've never personally sprayed more than a 250, so I won't pretend to be a true expert, but I have certainly learned a lot about reading spark plugs, and tuning - through nitrous.  I've never hurt any of my own, or others engines either.  If you want to go faster? throw a bigger nitrous jet and pull more timing.  DO NOT try to richen up, and add "just one more degree of timing" from a safe/good running tune.  Maybe that makes more sense... Anyway.

I can't think of the guy's name on YellowBullet, Monty I think?  If anyone is interested in learning how to run nitrous without destroying things, searching his posts would be an EXTREMELY good place to start.  Best N2O information I've found, anywhere on the internet.  Guy knows his stuff, and fortunately is one that is willing to share/help others.

I'm running an Induction Solutions plate on my 421" FE.  Well, after all my crap comes back from Blair anyway.  For the kit, I'll be using a stand alone fuel system with race gas for added security, as always.  Something I HIGHLY recommend in a street/pump gas car.  Cheaper than a set of pistons... 

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Hilborn EFI
« on: September 12, 2018, 10:27:27 PM »
Corey---

I'd like very much to explore further your research and its results. I'm in the start of a project that'll take me into the middle of next year to reach the fruition stage. I'm waiting in line for hard parts at the moment and likely won't have them in hand until into the new year. In the mean time, I'm looking into some of the details. Your comments awaken substantial interest. More soon?

KS

I don't have a whole lot of technical data beyond what I already said.  There is instrumentation that can measure that sort of thing but I definitely don't own any.  Wish I could be more help.  I was more or less tossing the concept out, as I found it to be quite captivating myself.  It has been close to 3 years since I built my custom carb for the FE, I really don't remember exactly where I found the hard numbers.  Google different word combos around fuel droplet size and torque production and you'll eventually stumble across the same.  Again, sorry.  If I had that kind of time I'd go back and dig it up - really was just throwing it in to expand other's thought process.  The hard numbers I do have from this are simply gains in top speed mph in a race boat that I built custom carburetors for.  Not exactly an FE... We do weird crazy things down here in southeast Texas, like build tiller handle boats that run 80 mph in 660'.  No bullshit, but that's what it was on.  3 cylinder Yamaha, 69 cubic inch.  My carbs picked up 2 mph, which at that level is like going from a 9.20 @ 155 to an 8.90 @ 162.  We were thrilled. I had that droplet size concept in mind though as I went along, and modified the emulsion tube to make larger droplets but still respond as needed.  Honestly, I took an educated guess and got lucky, but damn it was fun.  Same jetting, same throat and butterfly went slightly slower on more highly atomized fuel. Same day testing. Swapped parts on a sand bar. Probably didn't help at all, but I wasn't going to leave you hanging.  I don't work at Koenigsegg or anything like that. I just like a challenge.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Guess the horsepower game....
« on: September 12, 2018, 10:03:06 PM »
471hp @ 6100, 507 tq @ 4800.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Hilborn EFI
« on: August 24, 2018, 02:10:35 PM »
Joey - have you considered fabbing a common plenum among all eight cylinders, with the injectors on a common rail running right down the middle?  Maybe two rails? If you're having trouble picturing what i'm trying to describe, google "formula one common rail".  Several examples will pop up... not only would it potentially dress up the appearance of OEM throttle bodies, I bet it would be worth some power too. I've done some back to back testing on a different engine platform I used to race - plenum in place between throttle bodies vs throttle bodies standing as individual stacks - I always made more power with the plenum in place.  Just throwing an idea.  I love what you have going on already, as-is.  Seemed you were open and still trying to choose your final direction.  I think something F1'ish would be awfully hard to beat, especially if you mimicked occupying most of the area between the valve covers. 

The reason you want the injectors up high is to maximize the time the fuel has to atomize and cool the incoming air/fuel mixture; a lot of carb guys point to this as the reason why they can (or think they can) make more power with a carburetor. 

Bingo.  To add a slightly altered viewpoint - I think it has less to do with how atomized the fuel may or may not be, and more for the latent heat of vaporization as the fuel transitions from liquid to vapor.  So, in 100% agreement about cooling the incoming air/fuel charge, and giving as much allowable time for this as possible.  *BUT* I've seen some very compelling data that shot "more atomization is better" straight in the face.  Apparently, especially as it goes for torque production, you can over atomize the fuel charge.  Give the same engine the exact same volume of fuel, but alter the droplet size as it approaches the intake valve, and prepare to throw several paradigms in the trash.  Conventional wisdom is always good to a point, but seems there is usually more waiting to be found if you're nerdy enough to search for it.  The general summary and conclusion is that the droplet size/torque relationship is tied to density (but kind of think "weight" too), temperature of the air fuel charge, surface area of fuel vs. available oxygen, and the fact that there is always a gradient for liquid to be moving to vapor, which comes into play all the way up to the point the spark plug lights off.  If fuel is introduced as an already fine mist, you end up losing out on each of those in one way or another.  Every engine will want something different, based on several variables - not the least of which, is the distance between fuel introduction to intake valve, and velocity between those two points.  The more efficient the engine, the larger the droplet size it tends to want at entry.  That's why a F1 fuel nozzle spray pattern looks worse than factory GM TBI stuff from the 90s.  That's why a high compression high winding N/A small block will make less power with an annular booster than a simple "stepped" booster of identical physical dimensions.  Crazy.  If F1 wanted to, they'd have the fuel rolling out of there like a mosquito fogger if that's what worked best.  Just sharing, because I found all of the above to be very interesting, and turned most of what I "thought I knew" on its head.  **My F1 references are to the N/A engines of the past. Current, DI setups are an entirely different creature altogether**

Something Vizard said in one of his books, coupled with something similar a guy named Gordon Jennings said in one of his, tipped me off to the concept of fuel droplet size being specific to maximizing power production... eventually that turned into a miniature research project, and ultimately ended up in me building several of my own carburetors.  (One was for my FE  ;D )  If you look hard enough, there are some very interesting reads.  In a few cases, some relatively lofty names actually share hard data.

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I have run one since I got my drivers license.  I learned how to use it to my advantage over time. The one I have is the aluminum body canister style from summit. Some notes:
-the comment about it only pulling 12" is inaccurate. Downshift before applying the brakes or coast some beforehand will generate a spike in vacuum that the check valve should maintain. That's part of what I adapted into my driving style to help
-it works fine if you pay attention and plan your slower/casual stops accordingly.  You really only get one good stab of the pedal before you're back to leg-press mode.  So, if you're coasting up to a red light and have a habit of kind of bumping the brakes multiple times rather than judging the distance/braking needs more carefully, you're going to want to change that.  This is especially important for situations where you might be trying to get across oncoming traffic and have a small window to do so.  You only get one good vacuum assisted stab of the pedal. This will put you up on a curb in short order.
-you will learn how to manipulate and best use it in time if you just pay attention to the limitations of it, after the install. After that, it works just fine in my opinion.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Poll: What would you rather see R&D on?
« on: August 20, 2018, 07:33:32 PM »

...me being younger (so I must therefore also be clueless ::) )


[c.eastwood]

"Well now, I think that if you stay mindful of the above, and keep it real close-like to your heart, you might make it through this in one piece."

[/c.eastwood]

Quote

Your posts are what made me think I could get away with being equally sarcastic and half cocked.


You gotta earn that, boah, I mean, bruh. Familiarity ain't awarded just cuz you freakin' signed up to this forum. So don't blame your impetuous insolence on me, whippasnappah. Be mindful of the status quo.

You know, Jay has a valid point in pursuing a maintained code of conduct.  Many a good forum have been ruined by the comments of one horses.. Rear?  Corral.net ruined by KATO ENGINEERING.  HardcoreLS1 by SStrokerAce.  Yellowbullet is immune, I think because everyone knows what they're getting into beforehand... I could go on and on... Anyway, in light of that, and the fact that from the first thread I saw on network 54 some 20+ years ago... Jay is one of several that I look up to and respect. I won't be giving him any trouble.  I enjoy this forum, in part for it not being like most of the rest. You can do what you want... As long as it doesn't include enjoying the deluded idea that you "taught that young punk a lesson" using a condescending tone that didn't go unnoticed. Come on man.  I can think of 15,426,378 reasons why I won't be adding any further clutter to Brent's thread. You see what I did there? Do you even FE bro?

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Poll: What would you rather see R&D on?
« on: August 20, 2018, 06:54:07 PM »

You sold all your shit, so go to the back of the line, pussy.

No problem Jay.  Thanks for the heads up.

Jay knows that not only can anyone call me anything they want (FEloneee, come out to playaaaay), but that Tommy -T and I go way back, at one time battling it out to be #1 a-hole of the N54 forum. It was a tight race. So me calling him a pussy is sorta like you calling your stoner millennials buddy a bruh, bruh. Matter of fact, I'd feel neglected if he didn't spear me back. 'Cuz that's how I roll.

OK, someone name the movie.

That's cool.  Your posts are what made me think I could get away with being equally sarcastic and half cocked.  I laughed at several of your comments, and wasn't offended at all - If it matters.  My friends and I use similar "terms of endearment."   No worries here.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Poll: What would you rather see R&D on?
« on: August 20, 2018, 06:49:51 PM »
Really? And here I thought 60 year old passenger car engine technology was still the top rung on the ladder.

How many miles and how many passes do you now have on the 60 year old technology engine in the Mach?
Best ET?
I have a feeling that it hangs pretty well with some fairly expensive new stuff...

Well, 2 Drag Weeks and 2 FE Reunions, plus 2000+ street miles, so that'd be about 4000 miles and about 40 trips down the strip in about 2 1/2 years. My best ET so far is 12.1 here at home, but it should be in the 11's, if it had a better driver ::)  I keep wittling away at that 60' time. Still, not to shameful for a stock block, stock crank, unported heads, stock intake, factory carbs and 60 year old buggy technology.

No sir.  Absolutely was not referring to your car as a buggy, covered wagon, etc.  That's a beautiful car. My comment was just random sarcasm, engaging in what I thought was playful banter surrounding me being younger (so I must therefore also be clueless ::) ).. No disrespect intended for you personally, or your car.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Poll: What would you rather see R&D on?
« on: August 20, 2018, 06:37:13 PM »

You sold all your shit, so go to the back of the line, pussy.

No problem Jay.  Thanks for the heads up.

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