As an FYI, that is not the right part, the brake booster I have has a much larger port. I'd ordered the Dorman 80189 piece since it came with 2 grommets, but those don't solve the size issue either.

The part number I need is: C4AZ-2365-A, found it here: https://www.macsautoparts.com/1961-1971-ford-thunderbird-power-brake-booster-check-valve-66-36174-1.html however I'm trying to see if there is a solution that will work with a more readily available valve.

It's very common.  Here's the most common:  https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,80190,power+brake+booster+check+valve,1876

The ones with the second nipple are also around.  Just do a search for it.

So just take a screw driver and pry up from the outside, making sure to catch the grommet on the inside?

The fitting is held into the rubber grommet with nibs on the fitting.  It will come out pretty easily with a screwdriver between the flanges.  There are replacements available.  Your booster should be okay if you clean out the brake fluid.  Soapy water should do the trick.  No solvents.

The cam is in and I got the timing chain on as well.
One thing I do need to get are the push rods.

Lot of great advice given and people on here willing to help you along.  Once you get over the intimidation factor you'll be fine.
Everyone on here started where you're at and learned from others and are still learning from others.
Get your parts list together to see what you have to work with.  If you're confident that the lower end is ok then you are well on your
way. Once you get the cam installed correctly the heads and the other stuff are pretty simple.
Get Barry's book and that will help a lot.  Don't be afraid to ask questions along the way.
Just take your time and double check everything and make sure you have a good torque wrench.
Lot of satisfaction in hearing something you build fire up for the first time.
Good luck

garyv

I'll have to grab that one.

I would suggest also getting Barry's newest book on rebuilding the FE . It's geared more to the basics of Fe building for the person who wants to do it them selves in there garage. Well worth it IMHO. Good luck with your build.

You’re probably right. I think i just am paranoid of making a basic mistake that ruins it.
I’vegot timing chain on and the assembly rotates nicely. 

Quote from: ChiefDanGeorge on February 09, 2022, 10:40:12 AM

...We got the crank and pistons in then he vanished. I am not confident in my ability to finish it correctly. it's been sitting for a few years in my garage.
...

With the crank and pistons in, you got the hard part done.  If everything turns over freely, you got the cam and the top end to finish it off.  That is really pretty easy and is nearly unskilled labor.  Not quite, but nearly so.  Enough that with some YT videos and help here, you could polish it off.  Yes.  I understand that if you've never done it, it seems like rocket surgery.  But it's a lot easier than you think.  Just because you've never done it doesn't mean you can't.

I'm in Columbia, SC.

I actually had someone helping me build a block I bought. We got the crank and pistons in then he vanished. I am not confident in my ability to finish it correctly. it's been sitting for a few years in my garage.

Maybe call folks like Brent, Barry, et al first and see if they can supply a complete engine. That or source a local builder to get a quote on rebuilding your current engine. Heck, if our group knows where you live, perhaps a poster can recommend a nearby builder who knows FE's.

Are there any crate builders that you guys have used? The googles shows quite a few, one even near me(http://www.cmengines.com/). Problem is knowing the quality of the builds, not like there are Amazon review to check out.

I've got a '63 Merc Colony Park with a 390 that is at the end of it's run. Lots of blow by at highway speeds. I'd like to get something I can go down the highway and know I can stomp the gas and pass. I'd also like to get a vintage air unit, or something comparable, so I can drive it in the summer here(South Carolina) without sticking to the seat after 10 minutes.

Just thought I'd see if anyone had any first hand knowledge.