I'm just throwing this out there.

My 1974 ford pickup lighting circuit has all original wiring, sockets and T/S switch. Everything worked good with incandescent bulbs and I bought everything I needed to convert from an outfit that sells LED kits and stuff.

Everything would light and flash OK until you replaced the last incandescent with an LED. Didn't matter what socket, 3 LED's and 1 incandescent OK, 4 LED's no flash.

Tried different flashers, same problem.

I'm not an electrical wizard but I spent most of my career as electric forklift mechanic so I am at least familiar with DC circuits. I have full prints and I just could not see why it was doing this and all tests showed no issues with my wiring system.

After research I bought a set of LED bulbs that where non polarized. Put them in and everything worked great.

That was in 2018 and I've had no issues since.

Erich

These are the bulbs I used to make my system work with no modifications.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077T1DC9B/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bob and Larry,

Thank you very much for the replies, reasons and thoughts regarding this. I do have my reasons for wanting to install this so at this point I probably will.

Thanks again, Erich

Shady and Doug, thank you very much.

I figured it was boondocking. Wish I had bought that little generator when I was looking last year. I only have the 1 aux battery in the truck. Don't think it will last that long! Everything else runs off of propane so I'm good there. I'll figure something out.

Looks like I might make it after all!!!

Thanks again, Erich

OK, thought I would bring this up to date.

With the leak down test showing no real changes from previous tests, I decided I needed to do the suggested checks and move on. I checked the intake with a straight edge and it was good, couldn't get a.002 feeler in anywhere. I test fit it to the engine and it sat flat with no rocking and I could not get a .002 feeler to go in anywhere I checked. I reinstalled the manifold using the the Felpro MS90145 gaskets using Dow Corning 732 silicone (thin smear) on both sides and in place of the end seals.

Buttoned everything up and decided to do a compression test before I put the carb on. All cylinders where at 190 psi on the 4th stroke except #8 which was 185. # 8 was my known weak cylinder from earlier compression tests and my leak down test.

#4 was the cylinder that was full of oil from my leaking intake gasket.

I fired the truck, let it warm up and set my timing and carb. Everything seemed OK, no smoking and running smooth. I went for a 60 mile drive. After the oil burned out of the exhaust I had no smoking at all even after hard acceleration or high manifold vacuum situations. When I got home and checked the oil level it was the same (Before, it used almost 5 quarts to go 70 miles).

I was not impressed with the condition of the Edelbrock intake gaskets on tear down. With the exception of the 2 manifold bolts at #4 all the other bolts where tight and still the gasket seemed saturated and passing oil. I was surprised at the carbon build up on all of the valves.

I will need to check the intake bolts more often now.

I want to thank everyone for the replies and help. It has been a rough year loosing my mother and my brother with in 3 months of each other. I have been short of time trying to get things tied up and this sudden issue with the truck hasn't helped. I might still get to go camping this year yet!!!

Thanks again to all, Erich

This morning I saw the posts about the compression test. I didn't have time to throw the rockers back on but I figured I had time to do a leak down test.

I ended up with:
Cyl #1-17%
Cyl #2-16%
Cyl #3-16%
Cyl #4-15%
Cyl #5-16%
Cyl #6-15%
Cyl #7-16%
Cyl #8-28%

The last one, #8, didn't surprise me because it read lower when I put the new heads on the used engine. That was 5 or 6 years ago.

That's all I had time for this morning. Maybe get more done tonight.

Still want to check the manifold surface for straightness.

Quote from: AmerigoHauler on July 09, 2021, 07:59:05 PM

Also I was thinking of doing a leak down test. Does the piston have to be at TDC or does it not matter since the rockers are off and all valves are closed.

     I would just skip the task of the required reassembly of the valve train in order to do a compression test and just follow your original instinct of doing the leak-down test, as it will generally provide greater evidence of any problems. 

     Generally, one would want the piston at the top of the bore as this is where the greatest sum of wear to the block bore will be evident and provide the most accurate insight as to the overall condition, though this is a little more challenging as one will need to place the piston pretty darn close to T.D.C. each time, otherwise the air pressure applied will push the piston down the bore, sometimes quite abruptly (don't leave the turning wrench on the crank shout!  )!  But if one where chasing just piston and ring component issues (i.g. broken rings and/or piston ring lands) it won't make any difference.   

     It is actually easier to do the leak-down test with the valve train disconnected, as one wants to be sure both valves are closed anyway; and if one detects evidence of leakage thru a valve, then one can more easily, with say a soft-metal drift and hammer, rap on the valve tip to attempt to upset any particulate material (i.g. carbon) that may if only be temporarily be not permitting the valve to fully seat.     

     Also, not so much with broken rings but rather with failed piston ring lands, the sealing capability may vary depending on the luck-of-the-draw as to the ability of the segmented land section to perhaps if intermittently to provide support to the ring(s), so sometimes in suspect instances we have found that double testing at both top and bottom travel positions may reveal something askew, or just more confidence in the observation.   

     Scott.

I see this posted while I was typing my reply. Perfect timing

Thanks again all, Erich

If you haven’t tore it apart yet. Start it up and seal off all of the oil caps, pcv holes except one.  Start it up and put your hand over the remaining oil cap  hole. If it’s sucked an intake gasket you will feel vacuum in the crankcase

After you mentioned this I remembered when I was working at a rental store in the 70's that we had a Ford F-600 that did this. Took us a while to figure that one out.

So, this morning I put the carb back on, refilled the coolant and tried it. No vacuum at the oil fill on the left cover with the PCV hole plugged on the other cover. Nothing at all. I let it run until it was warmed up and i noticed that I wasn't getting any smoke or "wind" out of the only opening. I would think if I had a piston or blowby problem I would see smoke with that being the only opening to the crank case. Oh well, I'm letting it cool off now and I will pull the intake.

Thanks, Erich

Hello all, I have a question. What could be the problem with an FE that started oil smoking badly and used 5 quarts of oil to go about 70 miles? This started after a run thru the gears but never going past 5000 rpm.

This is in my truck. A .030 over 428 with Ed heads, an RPM intake, Lunati hyd roller cam and lifters and FPA headers. This combo has given me no problems for the last 5 years. Even with the smoking and oil consumption all my gauges, including o2 are reading normal. I drove it 60 miles home and it ran fine. No missing, bucking, surging, stalling. Just 65 mph, 2500 rpm, smooth as ever. Just cant see anything behind me. It is a little embarrassing.

The truck is home now and I had no time to do anything with it. Just parked it. Trouble shooting comes tomorrow.

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas.

Any and all replies/help would be appreciated. This is a new one on me.

Erich

If you have the dog dish hubcaps and want to use them again be aware that the later Econoline 8x6.5 wheels don't have the little nubs on the wheel to hold them on. I ran into this when I was looking to do what you are. Just something to keep an eye out for.

Erich