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Messages - blykins

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Choosing advance stop bushing MSD
« on: September 28, 2022, 04:07:30 AM »
Yes, in your situation, I would lock it out.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Choosing advance stop bushing MSD
« on: September 27, 2022, 03:11:59 PM »
Drag race only?

3
Vendor Classifieds / NIB Bullet Billet Core Solid Flat Tappet Camshaft
« on: September 27, 2022, 05:22:31 AM »
265/278 @ .050", .715" gross lift with 1.76 rocker ratio, 108 LSA, 102 ICL. 

Billet core camshaft, will require steel distributor gear and DLC coated lifters.  No break in required. 

$750 for the camshaft.  Also have DLC coated PPP .875" lifters, NIB, to go with it if necessary for $1000. 

4
We do. 

Doing a Tunnel Port with 5/16" valves right now. 

I also do quite a few builds with 7mm stuff.

There's not a tremendous amount of flow difference with the small stem stuff, but on a build with longer, heavier valves (like Jay's heads), or a high rpm engine, the weight savings helps quite a bit.

5
Vendor Classifieds / Re: WTB ford racing BOSS 302 8.2 block.
« on: September 10, 2022, 06:57:08 PM »
I've got a Dart SHP 8.200" block, 4" bore in stock.  They can be bored to 4.125". 

Just not a Ford Boss block fan.  Nodular iron caps and main bolts that look like they came off of a 1972 block.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Important -- Oil Pump Issues
« on: September 08, 2022, 03:00:34 PM »
Got to see what this does first-hand today. 

I was down at the shop I normally use to dyno, dyno'ing a 427MR engine.  After we were finished, we popped a 427 on that they had built.  I stuck around to help because FE's are pretty new to them. 

We got their engine bolted up, filled with oil, and went to prime the pump.  It took forever to prime and it took a very high speed drill motor to get oil pressure.  We could hear all kinds of air coming through the system.  Typically, when I prime on the stand, I hear few farts and burps from the lifters, but this engine just wouldn't stop.  We pulled the valve covers and the oil in the top of the heads was so foamy.  Primed again at lower speed so we could see what was going on up top and the oil pressure wouldn't stay up.  It would lose prime. 

At this point we were thinking it had a cracked pickup.  It had some funky DEEP sump pan on it and I figured that at some point the pickup had cracked.  While we were out to lunch, I remembered this thread and the phone call from Doug a few weeks ago.  I pulled this thread up on my phone and showed it to the guys.  Sure enough, when they got back to the shop, they dropped the pan and saw the whopping hole in the center of the cup.  It was just sucking so much air.

This is another reason why we prime on the dyno.  Hopefully we would catch something like that before assembly, but it's a lot easier to catch issues when the engine is on the stand (preferably with the intake off, etc.).

Thanks, Melling.....appreciate it.


7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Head gasket bore size VS compressor ratio
« on: September 07, 2022, 08:35:51 AM »
If the head gasket bores are perfectly round on both, then it will only change about .01 of a point. 

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: 397ci Tunnel Port Dyno Mule Build
« on: August 29, 2022, 05:56:05 PM »
I have always wondered about the streetability of aluminum rods. As of recently I have shifted my mindset on things like this.....because our cars don't get driven enough to worry about them meeting their life expectancy. Seems like the engines get changed out because they have timed out, not worn out. Same thing goes for the Honda bearing size. It's harder on bearings, but will it ever actually really matter?

With the recent billets of the past couple decades, I wouldn't be scared of running aluminum rods on the street.  Bill Miller (BME) says that he has a couple of shop trucks with 100k miles on them with aluminum rods.  Mike of R&R rods says that he has a lot of street import customers running around Florida with aluminum rods.   I think if you set the bearing and piston/head clearances up right and treat the engine well, they will last a really long time.   

I wouldn't necessarily say that the smaller journal diameters are harder on bearings.  Bearing speed goes down and the width is still there.  Cup guys have ran them for decades and obviously the forced induction import guys beat them to death. 


9
FE Technical Forum / Re: 397ci Tunnel Port Dyno Mule Build
« on: August 29, 2022, 11:14:56 AM »
About what is the delta $ between the custom aluminum and the steel h-beam rods?

Fully custom, built to spec, aluminum rods are about $1300.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: 397ci Tunnel Port Dyno Mule Build
« on: August 29, 2022, 10:55:55 AM »
Not a chance.

Is this a pump gas small cam build? I am sorry if I read more into this.
I assumed with a 380 CFM head, short stroke, aluminum rods for high rpm that one would
easily reach 2+ HP per CFM.

Anyhow, doesn't matter - it looks like a very fun project!
Thank you for showing.

Pretty stark contrast between 2 hp per cubic inch and 2 hp per cfm. 

This engine will be pump gas capable, mainly from the standpoint that it would take an extreme amount of dome to get the compression ratio up.  When those extreme amounts of dome are used, you often lose what you gained just from the lack of flame propagation.

Certainly not a small cam though.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: 397ci Tunnel Port Dyno Mule Build
« on: August 29, 2022, 09:26:16 AM »
Looking  good!
Will be nice to see above superstock power levels from an FE.
Perhaps well over 2 HP/Ci inch.

Not a chance. 

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cooling temperatures
« on: August 29, 2022, 04:40:57 AM »
I would keep it the way it is. 

I like to see coolant temperatures up around 180-195 on a street car.   Obviously on race stuff, it's different. 

Coolant temps of 160-170 are not as good for the engine. 

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: 397ci Tunnel Port Dyno Mule Build
« on: August 28, 2022, 02:45:56 PM »
Rods came in.   I'll be deviating a hair from the original scope of the build.  Stroke will stay the same, but we will be using a new crankshaft featuring one of the Honda rod bearing sizes. 

Rods are custom R&R aluminum rods.  They are 7.250" long, but only weigh 600g.  As a comparison, the 6.700" K1 rods shown below have a 745g total weight.  With the smaller bearing diameter, the big end size is much smaller, even when compared to a K1/Molnar sized rod big end.






14
Member Projects / Re: SOHC Street Build Questions
« on: August 27, 2022, 02:14:28 PM »
With the quality parts that are available today from guys like Jay and Robert Pond, your goals are easily attainable. 

To answer your questions in line:

1.  The individual stack EFI stuff has been a pretty big disappointment from what I've seen on multiple engine families. 
2.  Dry sump is completely overkill for a street engine.  It's an extreme expense for little benefit on a street car that's "only" making 800 hp.  A well sorted wet sump system to match your chassis would be adequate.
3.  That's correct.  It's easier to make more horsepower and torque in a streetable fashion (read lower compression, not wild camshafts, etc.) with more displacement.  A 4.375" x 4.250" is the cheapest way to go with parts available off the shelf.  You can go much larger (since you don't have a pesky camshaft in the mid section to get in the way) but it requires custom crankshafts.
4.  Jay's rocker system is the best I've seen, but not available at the last time I inquired.
5.  Eh. 
6.  A Pond cast iron block would be my choice.   I just don't see the benefit of an $8000 block.  I would also use his heads.  Stay away from the other guy who's noted for selling Cammer heads.
7.  Custom camshafts will be the way to go here.  Easily attainable to give streetability and to make big power.

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: A little taste of 1995 FE nostalgia....
« on: August 26, 2022, 03:08:28 PM »
Well, got some follow-up news, but unfortunately not good news.

My buddy got new bearings rolled in the Tunnel Port, so I rolled down this morning to go help on the dyno. 

First lick out of the gate was 610 hp @ 6500.   We didn't know much about the combination since someone just brought the engine to my buddy's shop to dyno, so we started out conservatively at 38° timing.  It showed on the plug that it wanted a little more, so we gave it 41 (from my experience, the TP engines like 40-42°).  It dropped 10 hp and then when we put the timing back to where it was, it lost 10 more.  That's usually a tell-tale sign of bearing issues, so we shut it down before it did something bad.  Cut the filter open and there was copper all in it, so that's that.


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