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Messages - Richard F

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 Cobra (Torino) Factory Appearance?
« on: January 10, 2021, 04:57:00 PM »
Jay are you looking for a shaker or the non-shaker ram air flapper plate?

Sorry, I shouldn't have said shaker in that earlier post, my mistake.  I need the ram air setup - air cleaner, lid with flapper, snorkel,  seal, etc.


I may have one, I'll have to dig in the shop. I'll check later today.

I checked, mine is the shaker scoop. been so long since I'd laid eyes on it I had forgotten.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 Cobra (Torino) Factory Appearance?
« on: January 09, 2021, 12:08:35 PM »
Jay are you looking for a shaker or the non-shaker ram air flapper plate?

Sorry, I shouldn't have said shaker in that earlier post, my mistake.  I need the ram air setup - air cleaner, lid with flapper, snorkel,  seal, etc.


I may have one, I'll have to dig in the shop. I'll check later today.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 Cobra (Torino) Factory Appearance?
« on: January 09, 2021, 12:00:30 PM »
Thanks for all the responses.  Sounds like it is a Fairlane Cobra, rather than a Torino Cobra, or maybe more correctly it is just a Cobra, because of course it did get it's own body code.  It does have the rear staggered shocks and hood pins.  A copy of the Marti Report and the build sheet, with the serial numbers blacked out by me, are below.  According to the Marti report "Drag Pack" became a thing after February 20 1969.  I always liked the "Super Cobra" on the build sheet.

It's a bummer about the tape stripe, but I'm going to put a stroked 427 in this thing anyway, so it's not going to be a stock restoration.  Original engine is long gone (prior to 1975, when the previous owner purchased the car), the shaker assembly was sold off the car in the 1990s, etc.  I think I might go with the tape stripe anyway.  I'll say it was dealer installed... ;D






For what it's worth, mine was a Fairlane on the title.  I don't remember when it was built, but it was a '69. Can't say about paint as it had been repainted before I bought it. I remember it had the Chrome cobra snakes on the side, and 428 cobra jet on the scoop. Very foggy, but I seem to remember it having aluminum valve covers. That's about all I can remember, except it would fly....and it got me hooked on FE's.

4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Painting leaf springs
« on: August 30, 2020, 07:12:29 PM »
I cleaned my leafs on my Falcon as best I could and painted them with POR-15. Time will tell as I only have 35 miles on it so far.

5
My only comment here "other boneheaded NHRA moves that have proven to kill the sport. The 1,000ft rule," is that the 1000' rule is to help prevent being killed RUNNING the sport.  The tracks are not long enough to safely support the speeds and pretty much 100% do not have the room to expand the shutdown.  That includes the Tx Motorplex which appears to out in the middle of nowhere.  Track owners also are not likely to spend the money either - the 'plex bathrooms haven't been updated in over 30 years and the outer pits are a friggen rock garden.  Even the pro pits are deteriorating.  So it's either limit the length or reduce the speeds.  Can't have both.

Speed's the way.

Yeah, they can eliminate Ford engines but those numbnuts couldn't for the life of them figure out how to cut speeds and make racing nitro cars far cheaper. I can quote a ton of great ideas bandied about ujust form my old pals who did run these dragsters for years on how to slow down the nitro cars and regain true 1/4 mile racing. Blower speed, blower size, # of magnetos, reduced nitro loads, reduced injector hat lines, only one much smaller fuel pump....and the list goes on and on.

Yep, much like the Brian France destroyed nascar...there are many ways to slow the cars WITHOUT restrictor plates, for example, but they refuse to implement any...I guess they LOVE the"big one".

6
Thank you, Gentlemen. I twisted a factory 31 spline axle and it, in turn, was out of round and destroyed the inner seal. The gear oil leaked past the axle bearing, down the backing plate and ran into the drum.  Stupid stuff. Not much I can do about it but fix it. I was surprised the 31 spline Ford axle twisted being I haven't been that hard on the car. The new G2s are pretty sticky and it hooks up fairly well now.
Thank you again for the lead on the shoes. I called NAPA. What the hell? No one turns drums and rotors anymore? Millennials don't fix anything! They throw it away and replace it!
Have a great week


Around me there are no machine shops.  They have all closed.  A friend of mine has a shop with crank grinder, balancer, high tech bore and honing , etc......he's in his early 60's and has pretty much quit.  If I needed something I don't know if I could get him to do it.  Maybe if I begged enough........

!                                             -Keith

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: TRW pin locks..
« on: March 11, 2020, 07:47:41 PM »
I used spirlox on my TRW's and never had a problem.  I admit though that I never measured them I just ordered what was listed in the parts book.  I still have a set new I can dig out the bix for the part number.

8
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 69 mercury monterey with 2600 miles.
« on: December 30, 2019, 08:19:54 PM »
My frugal aunt had a Buick she bought new in '97, she died in 2000, I sold it to my sister it had less than 3000 miles on it.  it truly was the car "the little old lady drove to church on Sundays".  Guy at the bank couldn't believe it when we did the transfer paperwork...

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Tips on block prep to paint
« on: August 20, 2019, 08:19:16 PM »
From doing the bodywork on my Falcon, the next time I paint an engine I will use etching primer on the cast iron before I paint.  I don't paint alumium heads and such typically but if I decide to I will have to research prep for that.

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thank You Brent Lykins !
« on: September 21, 2018, 06:56:27 PM »
All of my dealings with Brent have been great.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rear spring/caltracs kit
« on: July 09, 2018, 03:12:26 PM »
another pic

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rear spring/caltracs kit
« on: July 09, 2018, 03:09:32 PM »
I moved mine 6" inwards and mini tubbed it.




13
... and found that over the winter the brakes had completely disappeared.

So, Barry came over for tea and crumpets?

I read through the old thread. Must have missed it originally. A few mistakes in the replies here and there, but the most important thing is that this is a Cobra, not a Fairlane or Torino. It is its own model with its own body code, and nowhere on it does it have anything other than Cobra emblems and FORD lettering. 1970 was when we saw the first Torino Cobra.

If you put this in Projects, I can weigh in if you want. Or not, if you got it handled. In either case, good score!


When I had mine, it was titled a Fairlane (North Carolina).  There were no Torino or Fairlane emblems on it, just Cobra.  Man I wish I still had it.....

14
FE Technical Forum / Re: scary thought,fe die?
« on: January 08, 2018, 09:03:45 PM »
Likewise, if anybody wants to give up their stuff, I'm also 36, and I plan to be around for a while.  I will say the cost scares a bunch of people away. Personal example: I need to get a new transmission console for the Cyclone (which shares with the Fairlane).  Never re-popped, and they go for ~1k.  1k for a piece of molded 1960's plastic.  I haven't ran into anyone who doesn't think I'm crazy paying that price. 

Joe


I paid 500.00 for a '65 Falcon grille...because they don't re-pop them.  Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do...

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: New Trick Flow FE cylinder heads & Intake
« on: December 25, 2017, 07:47:46 PM »
You split it. 

You cut it with a razor blade and then stretch it over the crankshaft.  Split goes towards the top of the block.
So, are you supposed to cut the real main seal into 2 pieces, or make one cut and bend it to get around the cranks flywheel flange? Either sounds pretty sketchy to me. Most 1 piece seals also use a garter spring on the backside of the seal lip, does this one also have a spring? Personally, I have always believed most FE rear seal leaks to be from the side seals or the cap, not tghe rubber seals, so you would still have that area to deal with, if you did somehow get this "1 piece" seal to fit properly and actually work.

You make one cut and bend it around. 

I agree about the side seals.

Carl Holbrook had a 'stash' of items that were, or had become, hard to get. He had a paper grocery bag half full of 'rawhide' side seals. You soaked them in warm/hot oil and then slid them in place. They'd swell up and did a better job of sealing than anything I ever saw, with the exception of injecting 'Right Stuff'.

KS

I haven't seen those in years. You are right, in my opinion they sealed better than what's available today.  For that matter, rope seals did pretty good too.


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