Did you ever go back and recheck your old block?

Well done!

This one is a genuine 429 Cobra Jet, original parts with pedigree.  Super fun to build, going in the original CJ car it's been in for decades, C-6, 3.25 gear.

Idle
https://youtube.com/shorts/jZz2oV-S5-I?si=YB18mzMxjy4MOM97

Dyno pull
https://youtube.com/shorts/Gc4m-BvIyY0?si=OydEO3EMpxq0N1cw

Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:  518            Dyno brand: Stuska
      Power Adder:  N/A             Where dynoed:  Dale Meers Racing, Buffalo, KY
      Peak Horsepower:  547 HP @ 5000
      Peak Torque:  640 @ 3600

Engine Specifications:

   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes: Factory 4-bolt 1971 429 CJ, 4.380 bore, ARP main bolts, CnC square decked, torque plate honed
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: SCAT cast 4.30 internal balance
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:  SCAT 6.800 I-beam 7/16 bolt

   Piston brand, material (cast, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR: Racetec 34 cc 4032, 10:1

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:  Clevite rod and main bearings, Durabond cam bearings

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes: Mahle 1.5/1.5/3.0 mm

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:  Melling HV, Melling pickup, ARP drive

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:  Factory CJ oil pan, no tray, no filter adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"):  Custom Bullock's Power hydraulic roller, 237 @.050 intake, .620 lift, 115 LSA on 108

   Lifters brand, type:  Morel standard travel

   Timing chain and timing cover: Cloyes 9-position roller, Ford cover

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:  Factory D0OE-R Cobrajet, slight bowl work, bronze guides, SI 2.25/ Ford Racing tulip 1.75, 5-angle intake, radius exhaust.

   Valve springs: Manley 22429-16, 160 seat, 400 open
 
   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio: Comp Steel roller

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material: Trick Flow rocker studs

   Pushrods brand, type, length:  Custom Smith Brothers 5/16, .116 wall call/cup oiling

   Valve covers, brand, type:   Original 1971 429 CJ cast aluminum

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:  Factory 429 Cobra Jet
 
   Harmonic balancer brand:  Rebuilt factory 1971 Cobra Jet

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):   Factory Ford restored/rebuilt

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:  Factory Ford iron Cobra Jet

   Carburetor(s) brand, type: Factory 1971 Ford Quadrajet 780 cfm

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:  Dyno headers

It sure liked the BT intake and super sucker!

If people don't think 220 is hot then what is hot in a street car?

Get the biggest radiator you can fit crossflow best and bigger pump like Jay said you could try lowering your fan starting temp too I would start at 160

This people thinks 212 is boiling for water at sea level, with a 14 lb cap you are in the 240s, then add the antifreeze, even less likely to boil.  However, I didn't say I like 220, it's getting pretty warm and depending on what you are doing with the car, you are getting close, but as I said, unless we knew when it was getting hot, hard to determine why and give advice.

That being said growing up in the Northeast, it was easy to cool a car, same 50% of the year in Nebraska now.  However, almost every problem child I dealt with when living in Vegas with 150 degree pavement heat, was solved by airflow.  A 2000 cfm single SPAL fan is better than most, but if he is heating up at idle, that's where I'd start
 

Yep, and both holes aligned...and make sure bolt doesn't block distributor feed when you put the thrust plate on

Quote

I know you get it, and in general, a 10 degree split is a decent cam for the head, but is 42 degrees of overlap at .020 and 7 at .050 right, then consider lash effects?  I'd want a reason or two to pick something like that with a head that can use some help to pull on the port (especially if the intended use needed it) and I'd want to know compression before I flirted telling a guy it would be happy.

Food for thought:
First, I never said my cam would be optimal, for anything!
But, I believe my cam specs will give better fuel mileage, and higher hp, above above 4k. As well as be a bit better on octane tolerance, up to 10/1 CR using a 4° adjustment.

That's assuming Brent's would be 109 LSA +4° but, he didn't say.

Average hp to 5.8k would be very close.

Cam challenge anyone?

A person cannot state any of those things you just said without just estimating general behavior based on the few cam specs provided, and that's my point.   We still haven't heard all the details of the use, fuel, gear, etc.  The term "better" cannot be determined without more info.

If the original poster got us even a few of those things on Brent's list, we could have a recommendation building.  If he was close to me, I'd cc the heads, measure deck clearance, at least eyeball the dish, if not measure, then dig in with the guy to see what he intends for the car.  However, there is not enough info to jump to a part number. An hour or two of work and the owner to have exponentially better choices and a real prediction of what the car will do.

If you want to play though, my gut (without almost no information on the engine and use) tells me you are undercamming by a little on lobes, by a lot on LSA, and thinking ICL will offset the peak RPM.  That is indeed how they did it from the factory, but they were hobbled back then.

As far as a cam challenge, I wouldn't touch it with a 10-foot pole, especially with no stated purpose and engine variables.