To be honest, I just like the BFG for looks and performance.  Google says: BFGoodrich Radial T/A®, Produced at the Tuscaloosa, Alabama plant. This facility has manufactured passenger-car and light‑truck radial tires for decades and produced the first BFGoodrich Radial T/A.

Coopers are well loved, but they always just look off to me.  Google says: Cooper Tires are primarily made in the United States, but not all models are built domestically — some are also manufactured in China and other countrie

Mastercraft has decent reviews on Amazon, their website says "headquartered in Ohio", but Google says USA made in Ohio, Mississippi, and Arkansas

I have to say I don't love the Mastercraft name, sounds like a bass boat, LOL but if decent and keeps some money in the US might be worth it.  I actually have a temp set of unknown brand on my F100 now that are "Revengers" LOL, only because they came on the wheel I bought used.

Sorry no solid info except that it looks like BFG or Mastercraft

Hot little 347 for an AOD 4x4 early Bronco, should be an easy engine to love

https://youtube.com/shorts/MyAduEClTIk

Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:  347            Dyno brand: Stuska
      Power Adder:  N/A             Where dynoed:  Harry Heads, Sioux City, IA
      Peak Horsepower:  421.5 @ 5800
      Peak Torque:  437.1 @ 4500

Engine Specifications:

   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes: 73 Ford 302 iron, 4.030, CnC squared, .045 quench
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: SCAT cast 3.400 28 oz imbalance
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:  SCAT 5.400 I-beam

   Piston brand, material (cast, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR: Mahle 1mm/2mm

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:  King main and rods, Durabond cam bearings

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes: Mahle 1.0/1.0/2.0

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:  Melling HV, ARP drive, Ford rear sump pickup for Bronco

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:  Ford pan for Bronco

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"):  Custom Bullock's Power hydraulic roller, 219 @.050 intake, .560 lift, 112 LSA on 106

   Lifters brand, type:  Ford Racing with Comp Cams Spider

   Timing chain and timing cover: Cloyes billet, stock cover

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:  AFR 185, blueprinted for spring pressure and Manley seals

   Valve springs: AFR 145 seat, 390 open
 
   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio: Owner supplied aluminum

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:  AFR

   Pushrods brand, type, length:  Custom Smith Brothers 5/16, .116 wall call/cup oiling

   Valve covers, brand, type:   Ford Racing aluminum

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:  Holley Dual sync (dyno'd with Blueprint Engines MSD copy)
 
   Harmonic balancer brand: Scott Drake

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):   Iron Tuff Stuff, electric on dyno

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:  Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, some mild port work and plenum cut for IAC motor access to both banks

   Carburetor(s) brand, type: 550-872 Sniper (dyno'd with 650 double pumper)

I have a center oiler with a C3AE-J head on one side and a C8AE-J on the other and we are doing a resto.  The C8AE-J is a neat piece, early CJ and 427 Cougar, but not correct for the engine.

Any chance anyone has one?  Just need a rebuildable core, no broken ears, could live with un-repaired broken bolts.  Thanks in advance!

Thanks Clark, the owner mocked it up and we think we have clearance.  Using Jay's book we both verified about 3/8 setback with the RPM and he showed plenty of room for setback.

Hopefully vertical and angle works, I have cut BT intakes for shakers, but you can't take a lot off due to linkage interference, haven't done an RPM

Building a 445 and the owner wants to retain the S code air cleaner with an RPM intake, 68 Mustang.  I have Jay's measurements but wondering if it's been done.

Game plan is to see how much room there is with the current PI and adjust.  Stock mounts, stock location, Holley.  Likely should have a 1/4 phenolic under but TBD.

Most truck headers are designed for a D2TE-AA, C8AE-H, or a few other low port heads.  So I'd likely stick with the 360 heads.  Most FE heads will work, but you need to talk casting numbers, because in many cases, 360 are 390 are 428 heads. 

A modern multi-angle valve job, 45 degree seats, and a bowl blend will do wonders and do just fine with headers and your iron intake.

I'd prefer long tubes if you are willing, and a 2.5 inch exhaust with good performing mufflers and a H pipe, do the head cleanup, and your 4 barrel 600 and you are running pretty well on the cheap.  I forget when the F100s went to throttle cable, but if 75 is still mechanical linkage, make sure you are getting full throttle after the swap

Next would be a distributor recurve, and it'd run pretty well.

After that, I'd likely go inside and add some cubes. 390, 416, etc, but they can run real well with just the changes listed.

Quote from: My427stang on July 25, 2026, 09:58:03 PM

Quote from: 67xr7cat on July 25, 2026, 02:18:33 PM

Whether you can run a vacuum boost depends on not just LSA. You need to look at the actual valve events and other things effect it too like how open the throttle blades are. Usually I just add in using a vacuum reserve tank or vacuum pump and be done with the issue.

Nothing wrong in anything you said, but some changes in LSA would make many of those much more universal than they are now and not requiring a band aid of vacuum pump or can, and that is looking at all the events, not just LSA.  Nothing magic there in any of the specs, but my guess is their target market doesn't know or care, just wants 100 bucks cheaper.

I would have to guess my question never got to Nutter, though, may try again for fun.  I find it pretty hard to believe that unless Summit isn't stocking cores with enough spread, that it wouldn't be just a programming change, but such is life.  I spec all my custom cams through Comp and Bullet, figured I'd do a test on a TFS 505 if they could accommodate the change, but no loss here

I don't this those running summit are car guys, more likely money guys.

Btw what LSA were you looking for? Most of those cams are on a 111 and one is on a 111.5 Really looking at them some are not that bad as far as overlap is concerned. A lot of I/E split on some too. Be interesting to see how they actually run, but as I said I'm not that interested.

As for vacuum pump being a band aid look at many modern cars and they use one, usually run off the cam. This is because they don't make enough vacuum. Keep in mind most vacuum boosters are designed to have at least 18" of vacuum. Yes you can get by with less, but I've found cars with 12"-14" vacuum can result in variation of boost. At least is something I've observed, but of course I tend to be sensitive to these types of things. Now a days I won't even do a vacuum booster when I can grab an electric booster from a Tesla and mod it to fit.  Add an electric assist steering column from a Kia soul and no more power steering pump, hoses, and hydraulics to deal with, but I'm getting off topic here.

I change LSA based on overlap after lobe choices and what I need for customer and engine intent, not quite that simple, but easiest way to quickly explain it.  It can range from 108 to 115 on most builds.  However, on this one I wanted to see Summit's big cam spread to 114 or 115.  Can't really say "can you revise your entire cam for me" but I did expect maybe an option to spread centers on a special order.

As far as being money guys, some of the best parts are coming from this company, glad to see them make a little.  Trick Flow heads are owned by Summit Racing and their quality is fantastic and availability is good, although I sure wish they'd come back with their single 4 intake. As I said, I suspect either my question didn't get to where it needed to be or it's a stocking core problem, as you spread centers, the company has to stock semi-finiahed cores to meet that need, so maybe they don't see a need for the flexibility.

I am not against a can or electric pump if a customer wants it, but also have many on the street that are on resto cars that do not want any modern externals, and we can easily make 550 HP at well under 6000 and give them good vacuum by controlling overlap.  When you do that, it makes for a very happy street car, and if the head supports it, can make some big power. 

Quote from: Barry_R on July 23, 2026, 07:15:16 AM

A PAC 1220 beehive will fit nicely on that OEM step, and with a .030 shim and the appropriate retainer and keeper combination should get you around 140ish on the seat.  Not race car stuff but given the light weight of the retainer it should be perfectly fine for a street hydraulic roller deal.  I am not normally a big fan of single springs (like the beehive), but this is a case where they are the best solution for the problem and I have done many using this combination without any issues at all.

Just wondering how you can recommend a spring when the OP never mentioned the valve open lift?

I don't love 140 seat, I'd like to see 10lbs more on a hyd roller and a 45 degree seat FE intake, and maybe 10 more than that on a 30, but open pressure means much less on these hydraulic rollers especially with a lightweight retainer.  Anywhere from 390-425 will run hard. and likely could go less depending on the lobe intensity.

Not that you shouldn't know open pressure, but the PAC is a good start to fit the head, let the builder determine the next step.