I just saw this, 5 years later LOL

It's been flawless.  Sits for months, turn the key and it fires up happy.  I never changed the fuel pump, but one of these days   It has a 90s era Pioneer with a booster/equalizer and some big speakers that I installed when I was in my 20s, so I just crank up the music....

Forgive me for asking the same question again, but I think maybe I didn't do it well last time, or I am not understanding the issue.

If you are using Billet Speedworks caps, or an equivalent pan rail to pan rail cap, why not use any 4-bolt motor mount block?  You'll be cutting back the bosses anyway unless you plan to narrow the caps, or narrow them and use spacers as well.

Some say locating off the pan rail is weaker, but depending on component weight, a 2 bolt main can swing 600 HP, 6000 rpm.  The caps are located off the register not the cross bolt, so you are really only grounding harmonics and adding another plane of stability, so they really shouldn't be any twisting force.  If this is going to be a bigger machine than that, I''d think the rest of the block is going to call uncle anyway

Seems like I'd pick almost any good 390 4-bolt block, make sure registers fit nice and tight on the parting line, light fit with the pan rail requiring maybe a little lube to slide in by hand for reference, and make the block choice and machining easy

Thoughts?

That is the former Phil Glass car. David Garton found the car and mechanically restored it. It is OG paint and Blair Patrick built the engine. No maybe to the story its real deal!

I can confirm that, I was a small part of it when the car came up years back.  David researched, bought and got it back to it's glory.  Very cool ride, and nothing he owns is junk, lots of cool toys.

It's the amount of oil.   No wonder the lifters were clacking.

If it's a Canton T-sump oil pan, regardless if it's the higher end road race pan or not, the *system capacity* is 8 quarts.  That means 7 quarts in the pan, 1 in the oil filter.

You're still running too low of oil.

Spot on, I use both styles of Canton all the time, and 2 of my toys have it.  8 quart system. Here is from their page.  "This high capacity front sump is for all Ford 332-428FE blocks. "T" style sump to increase capacity without losing ground clearance. It has a 6" deep, 12-1/2" wide by 10" long sump with a 8 quart system capacity."

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/15-810-oil-pan-for-ford-332-428-fe-high-capacity-front-t-sump-street-pan.html

Good news is that next oil change you can go back to affordable oil

Urgefor,

Do you need the C5 and/or the bosses for a specific reason?  As I understood you were using aftermarket caps.  They are wide to allow direct contact without the bosses if that is attractive to you.

I do have a C6 block in Nebraska, std bore, pressure checked, but not cleaned or magged.  Not chasing a sale, stock for later incoming builds, but if it helped you out of a bind I'd be happy to flip

No SCATs 3.98 have FE rod bearings. I wish they did have that option to use a better bearing and longer rod, or at least an FE I beam to get some weight down on the cast crank builds

What would be the benefit of a 4.0 crank than just using a 428 3.98 arm. Besides cubic inches.

I'll take a stab...10K RPM on a cast crank at those power levels may not end well