The ERA moved under it's own power.  Accidentally left a couple strips on my concrete...seriously too, just rolled in a little, it's light and very healthy

Did a little walk around

https://youtu.be/BoWnxlhD24M?si=9bt3KjVm8E8nEDhO

Game plan is to:
- adjust the clutch
- set ride height to street settings (ERA has competition settings also and this one was a racer)
- clean it up and get a few miles on it before Nebraska winter

That would be somewhere around .062 assuming you started at a good zero.  Seems like preload isn't an issue

Pull the rocker assembly so you can look at your adjusters, you can squirt oil in the hole to see if it flows through.  Blow air through the pushrod.

I am thinking you have a lifter bleeding down which causes the noise.  The Morels are really good, but every so often you see a weird one.

SOLD - Thanks!

10w30 is almost always good, it's based on a Kinematic Viscosity rating, and not clear if required for the non-short throw but I have seen SBFs with thick oil and Morel hang up.

FWIW I go .045 to .060 preload on standard travel Morels whether sourced from Morel, Lunati or Howards.

The odd thing is the factory oil gallery to the back down the center, then mostly back to front after it splits, and almost directly feeds the #8 exhaust after the split, so odd the rears would starve, maybe something in there on the rear one as it took the corner or maybe bad preload or worn lifter bores.

Are you in the preload window and are the rocker adjusters where you would see oil coming through?  Wouldn't change the noise, but the oil could be unrelated and just a weak lifter 

I have a set of new Pond Alum high riser heads.  2000.00 plus the ride for the pair.

Planning to just sell as is, but if desired, could equip with valves and valve job, springs, or even porting for additional cost. 

Beautiful pieces, just don't have an immediate use for them.  Thanks!

I generally put a TFS head at 35-36 depending on compression.  Then I find a linear curve is not the best at WOT, I generally bring it in faster starting until about 2000 and then smooth it.  Be sure you checked your setup using the hand helpd though, there uis an offset if commanded timing doesn't match the light

If you are blowing out a dipstick, a breathers will help, you just may get a little mist.  However, I would ask what you are using for a PCV and breather now?  I had one come in with a fixed orifice PCV (no rattle just a little hole) that doesn't do so well on a big incher.  An old school PCV can work well, although the breathers are a get out of jail free if it's simple crankcase pressure.

Although a stroker in theory will have slightly more blowby due to stroke, you should not have that little ring seal, nor should you need a significant break in.  If it's huffing hard, need to see if you broke or damaged a ring or even popped a head gasket.

I recently had a 347 on the dyno that the repop breather was misdrilled, won't ever miss that again, it pushed the dipstick up at WOT, but didn't after we fixed it

Worst case, it's easy to damage a 1 mm ring if you used a standard ring compressor too.  They won't break, but you can bend them without trying hard without a tapered compressor

Very rarely is a flex fan a good choice, especially as you make more heat.

Assuming you have the fan spinning 1:1 or faster with pulley sizing, the best fan for keeping them cool I have seen is the Flexalite race fan

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-101584

I am not an electric fan user unless you can use a very effective fan.  Two 13s seems very small to me