Jay B. Jay I still want a MR manifold. Do you have any left? Just need an address and cost of the unit. I think I had my name added to your list way back. Rick L.

Jon I did my own FI system on a single plane dove manifold back in 97. It's not preety but works. If you are looking for flow numbers, send the unit to Joe Craine and let him do his magic of matching the ports and encreasing the flow. I see no problem with him picking up 10-30 cfm per port. Rick L.

sixty9cobra going to a 31 spline is going to be stronger and take more abuse. The questions I have is what is causing the motor to go flat at 5,800 rpms?? If its the valve springs, they need to be changed. What is the 60' times? A little suspension work with adjustable shocks  would help. Battery in truck of car? What are the air pressures on the tires? What clutch are you running? Video your car racing and look at the hookup. Front end lift and rearend squat? If you have to make another shift in the 1/4 mile, it will cost you more time that going through redline. Ask Jay but I think that Jay motor was a 6,700 rpm limit motor and still making power. 500 rpm over the max HP rpm is all you need to goto. The motor will spin higher but you are wasteing time and motor over time. 3" pipes may also be too big for your motor. We need some back pressure to help the motor make max power. 1-2 hg. Electric cut outs with short pipes may also be an idea for your racing. Over the years, I have seen may guys goto higher gearing myself too and the problem is blowing the tires up on launch and high 60' times. Jays car has alot of testing done to get max power to the track. Was it 2005 before you raced with the blower? Believe he was running a 511 with WORK. Good luck Rick L.

Bartlett No to be a bad guy here but have you checked the lobe on the camshaft all 360 degrees? Bottom of the lifter? And last, cut open the oil filter and check for metal in the pleats. You have some of the best engine builders here. It's kind of wierd that only 1 adjuster failed or is having a wear problem like that. I hope it is just poor hardening treatment. 1 small note, Comp cams doesn't make those adjusters, they are out sourced. Hope motor is OK. Rick L.

cgmach1 CG if this motor is for 1/4 racing only, then fill the block to start from the bottom to  1" below the water pump holes in the block. I would also have the block checked for trueness, and mag for other cracks. Do you have any pictures of the problem you can post. If the sleeved cracked again in the same spot, there is a problem with the boring that was done. I like Jay have never had a problem with sleeves in a block if they where machined right. Is the crack vertical or horizontal?? If the block was bored for the sleeves, I would be very surprise that the bores didn't go into a water jacket or cause a thin spot in the jacket and leak coolant or water into the block. I would start with another machinist to check out the block. We can sit here and guestamate possible problem and solutions. If you can find another FE block cheap, you are still looking at some machine work to get this one ready for racing. If you fill the block with block Crete, you do 1 side at a time. Use a sander for vibrating the Crete to remove air bubbles. give 24 hours to setup then do other side. I have seen and had problems trying to do both sides within a couple of hours of each other. Hoping for pictures. Rick L.

Jay B. Sorry the name is BME. Out side of the price, they can make custom ones of any size. Each rod is about $150.00 each. Bill said that the new rods are more stable in size and don't grow as much as the old ones. He has a couple of car with over 100K on the street. Guess the problem is finding a couple of guinea pigs for a test. The other issue is a real custom crankshaft. I guess the real question is there any real up side to running a lighter bottom end? Talked to 2 other companies and got the 200-300 rounds and recheck or chuck. I have not checked in the titanium side yet. I am sure them are going to be about 3-4,000.00.
Other side note, waiting for your PSE manifold. With this setup a rev kit is doable and still like the idea of running one and saving some spring pressure and adding more control of the lifter. If you can take a hydro lifter to 6,800 or 7,000 rpm and still have control, it,s got to be worth something too. Running high pressures my lifters are pumped up which is OK. My thought is are the rollers not bouncing off the back side of the ramp of the camshafts at high speeds. I know high spring pressure, better control. The new thing or repackaging is of more multi back cuts on valves for better flow in the middle range of the motor. I have a set of heads done without valves, Have thought about dropping the valve down from 3/8 diameter shafts to 5/16 or even 7MM. Another reason for taking some of the pressure off the valves when seating in the heads. Still kicking this around too. Trying to work a deal with a friend for some dyno time on this motor without going broke. Have a good day. Ps need a shop like yours. Rick L.

Jay B. Jay have you looked into BMR aluminum rods? Talked to tech. These rods are forged and not  milled. Also added differents thing to strengthen them. Was told that the graining of the rods is stronger than milled ones. Out side of pre oiling to start a motor and letting them warn up before beating on them, seams to be a possible winner over running 1.88 honda rods or going to 2.00" SBC rods with a 6.7 length. Tech did a load test of about 5,800 pounds at 6,500 rpms. Said you are well within the safety range of loading. Always looking for more info on yes or no for a motor. I was also looking at saving weight on the crank as well as the rods. Have a set of 6.7 BBC rods that are 720 grams + or - .5 gram. Well balance all to "0" either way. Any thoughts? Rick L.

Hi Dano I see a bunch of issues with your setup, could we start at the beginning.
Was the bellhousing setup to center on the block and crankshaft? if not this will cause binding problems and damage
A clutch is a clutch, different styles are just that. I see a glazed flywheel and blown thrownout bearing We don't have pictures of the other
side of the pressure plate. Like to see what the forks look like. Same for the throwout bearing, looks chewed up where the fork is. Any chance of
of getting pictures of this and the fork end? Does the fork pivot smooth in the bellhousing or is it sliding forward? Is there a return spring to pull the
fork back to a stop? Some more pictures would be nice. Will try and walk you through this,
Lets start with pilot bushing or bearing, is it new and does it fit into the back of the crank and it is not loose ot wobbling, Be careful with hitting it into the crank shaft. Bass punch and soft hammer. A hard socket and damage the case of the bearing, chip the bronze bushing. I add a little grease to install either
Next bellhousing being centered. IMO this is a must. Takes time. You can get offset pins to center on the block. It took me 3 hrs to get a lakewood, .038" back on center. Alot of grinding, extra long pins and welding nuts to the bellhousing so is permanent centered on this  block unless a major failure happens.
Ok lets install the clutch. EVERYthing clean of oil, grease, even finger prints. I use gloves for this part. Get you centering dowl and install it in to the pilot bushing or bearing. This dowl should be new. It should fit snug in the hole. IF its loose or falls out, we have a problem and need to measure the inside of the bushing or bearing and the end tip of the input on the trans. Fix this problem.
Next install disc, again dowl should hold disc in place and centered. Pressure plate has some weight, install couple
of bolts on the bottom to help control the weight. Torque bolts to 10 pounds and keep crossing them until you reach the correct spec. Want to pull down the pressure plate evenly.  I use blue loc-tite to stop them from coming loose over time. Install the clutch fork and throw out bearing in the bell housing
If you can hook up the linkage for the throwout bearing.some system you can them check the air gap with the clutch engaged. you want between .035" and .055" on the air gap to get full release of the pressure plate on the disc. If not enough air gap, adjust fork rod, same applies for too much clearance. This will do damage to the pressure plate fingers. Once this is done, install the trans. The last thing is to check the travel of the clutch pedal and not overextend the pressure plate with too much pedal travel. Have found that a small braket or a block of wood works the easiest to limit travel. . One last measure ment, measure from the flat face of the trans to the tip of the trans input shaft. Them with the bellhousing on the motor measure to the bottom of the center of the crank. Need to make sure you are not pushing the crankshaft into the thrust bearing in the motor and do MAJOR damage to the motor. In some cases with a lakewood bell housing you need to cut .380" to prevent damage of the thrust bearing. I have seen this happen with a ford motor and GM input shaft trans. Good luck. This should walk you through the process. If you think you still have a problem , call me, I might be able to walk you throught this.732-254-3536 in the evening after 7pm EST time. Rick L.