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Messages - frankenfords

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: FE to C4 Bellhousing
« on: November 20, 2025, 01:59:38 PM »
I did not know that these were no longer 'readily' available, so I think there's definitely a market.

I've got a couple pan fill C4 cores that I've been sitting on for potential future service, so I'd probably be a buyer. There have been too many instances (like this one...) of me waiting out on buying something until 'the right time' only to find out that when that time comes what I was waiting to buy is no longer manufactured and impossible to find.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Subframe connectors
« on: October 28, 2025, 09:31:52 PM »
In my experience with multiple unibody based Ford cars, weld in subframe connectors that tie the torque box at the front rear leaf spring perch to the rear of the front frame rails near the toe boards absolutely make a difference in resisting chassis twist and improving vehicle stiffness.

3
FE Technical Forum / Re: rear tire clearance left vs. right
« on: September 28, 2025, 09:39:49 PM »
I’ve run into this problem before when trying to squeeze as much tire as possible under a car. I chalk it up to ‘stacking’ of loose production tolerances, and wear and tear that comes with age. I’ve dealt with it by loosening everything up; u-bolts, front and rear spring/shackle eyebolts. Then, use a come along or ratchet straps attached to a point or points on the frame and the axle housing to pull the axle housing the direction it needs to move to even things up. Tapping the u-bolts and other places with a hammer, while under tension, can help move things. Then, once it’s where you want it, torque everything down while still under tension. It’s worked for me, but results may vary.

4
As of today there’s one listed for sale on the other forum

https://www.fordfe.com/rare-dove-fe-427-hr-magnesium-1x4-spider-intake-t170278.html

5
Email sent

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Detroit Lockers
« on: June 15, 2025, 10:43:45 PM »
My experience with lockers is that they like to coast a little bit, off the throttle, before making a turn, especially with a manual transmission. Coasting a little allows them to disengage fully so you don’t get the chatter that tries to shake the car/truck apart when trying to turn. I kind of like the soft ratcheting noise when making a tight part or off throttle turn. Lockers are cranky and take a little getting used to, especially with a manual transmission and in the rain, but once you learn the nuances, I love that when you jump on it it tries to go straight. I’ve used them in several daily driver type cars and trucks that got flogged regularly

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Carb Tuning Question
« on: May 21, 2025, 11:42:57 AM »
I too have used the QFT billet secondary plates successfully, but one thing I had to do was fiddle with the idle fuel feed orifice sizing. On my application, the idle fuel feed orifice diameter was way too big, and made the idle circuit way too rich. I couldn't get it to run decently at anything other than WOT. Looking at the specs for the plates I was replacing (which I got from an old Holley book I have) and comparing them with the specs for the QFT plates, the idle feed sizing was way off.

The QFT plates have a screw in idle fuel feed that's basically a tiny worm screw with an even tinier hole drilled in it. I called QFT asking for either worm screws with different orifice sizes or blank worm screws, they didn't have any, so I sourced some from a RC Car supply company of all places. Then I found the appropriately sized drill bit (from Grainger) to match the orifice sizing in the original plates, and drilled the feeds in the replacement worm screws. Solved my idle and part throttle issues just like that.

My other experience with dual vacuum secondary carbs was that I needed to use the lightest spring possible (white) in both carbs to get the most out of it.

Hope this helps.

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Returning to the FE world, need re-education
« on: January 21, 2025, 05:17:33 PM »
Given that Mr. Jay Brown created and maintains this forum, I'd say the general consensus, and might I add decent thing to do, would be to 'send him a check'. It'll be a worthwhile investment into your library. 

9
Private Classifieds / Re: headers
« on: February 20, 2024, 05:23:33 PM »
Private message sent.

10
Private Classifieds / Re: Need 390 double crank pulley
« on: December 20, 2023, 12:41:57 PM »
PM sent

11
Private Classifieds / Re: Mallory Dual Point For FE Not Mine
« on: August 06, 2016, 11:05:41 PM »
That looks old to me with the as cast body, the newer ones are completely machined. Also, the brass condenser is an older tell.


Brett

12
I swapped from a port matched F427 to a port matched RPM to a ported (collar removed from plenum, runners blended into plenum, runners opened up to MR port size at head and blended up into port) Streetmaster on a fairly mild 428 build a few years back. Combo was .040 428 with CJ style dished pistons, heavily ported C6AE-R heads with 2.09/1.66 valves, about 10.1 compression, mild Crower hydraulic cam with 220-228 @ .050", 112 LC, .540ish lift, Holley 780 VS carb, 1 3/4 inch primary tube headers into 2.5 inch duals, C6 auto with 2,200 rpm stall, 3.89 rear gears with a tall tire. Ran this in a 3,900lb 65 F-100 SWB truck.

With both the F427, then the RPM intake, it had gobs of power as soon as the converter stalled out, would blow the tires off pretty easy (too easy). I think the F427 and RPM were on par with each other for that build. Swapping to the Streetmaster, it lost about 1.5-inches of manifold vacuum at idle, and was noticeably softer below the converter stall, but above about 3,000 rpm, it came on hard, and according to my seat cushion, pulled much harder through the mid-range up to the shift point (about 5,500 rpm). I was able to control the tire spin better too, so I felt it was a win on my combo, for what I wanted. Cruise rpm with this combo was about 3,000 rpm at 70 mph, and I noticed no change in driveability or economy in this range. I did have to diddle with the power valves, jets, secondary spring and timing a bit between the two intakes. The Streetmaster worked best for me with a 4 hole spacer on top of an open spacer, where I ran the RPM with just a 4 hole spacer.

For my current 428 build, same truck, with more compression, Edelbrock heads, huge solid lifter cam, 3,000 stall converter and wide ratio gear set in the C6, I kept the Streetmaster and am pleased with it.

For your combo, given that you have more weight over the rear tires than my truck and likely traction will be improved, I'd probably go with the F427, for as others have said, it will look 'right' in that engine bay, and will be in the sweet spot for your driving range.

Brett

13
Private Classifieds / SOLD
« on: March 20, 2016, 01:50:59 PM »
SOLD

Thanks, Brett

14
Back to the top again, some stuff sold, another round of price adjustments on what's left.

Thanks, Brett

15
Member Projects / Re: Why not?
« on: January 09, 2016, 01:18:07 PM »
The 66-early 70 Falcon's absolutely share the unibody with a 66-67 Fairlane. The 66-67 Falcon and Fairlane Rancheros are based on a variation of the 66-67 wagon unibody. If you look, a 66 Ranchero has a 66 Falcon front clip, and a 67 Ranchero has a 67 Fairlane front clip, but they are identical unibody structures.

An FE will bolt into a 66-early70 Falcon using 66-69-Fairlane/Torino hardware. All drivetrain parts interchange, and other than minor variations in the 66-67 style versus 68-early 70 style front suspension and steering which is common to all unibody Fords, those parts all interchange too. 66-71 station wagon and 66-71 Ranchero rear axles interchange, but the 70-71 rear axle is a touch wider. The steering column configuration changed in 68 to be a collapsible column for crash purposes.

My frankenwagon started life as a high optioned (V8, power disc brakes, power steering, air conditioning, power rear window) 69 Falcon Futura wagon, but now looks like a 67 Fairlane wagon after only swapping the front clip and changing the tail lights. It's been a few years since I did it, but I recall that the fenders bolted right on, and all I had to do to mount the Fairlane grill assembly was drill 4 holes in the embossed areas already stamped into the core support.

I say build it, there aren't enough of these bitchin old wagons left. If I hadn't saved mine, it probably would have been a parts car for a more common late 60's Ford.

Brett

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