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Messages - frankenfords

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1
As of today there’s one listed for sale on the other forum

https://www.fordfe.com/rare-dove-fe-427-hr-magnesium-1x4-spider-intake-t170278.html

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Email sent

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Detroit Lockers
« on: June 15, 2025, 10:43:45 PM »
My experience with lockers is that they like to coast a little bit, off the throttle, before making a turn, especially with a manual transmission. Coasting a little allows them to disengage fully so you don’t get the chatter that tries to shake the car/truck apart when trying to turn. I kind of like the soft ratcheting noise when making a tight part or off throttle turn. Lockers are cranky and take a little getting used to, especially with a manual transmission and in the rain, but once you learn the nuances, I love that when you jump on it it tries to go straight. I’ve used them in several daily driver type cars and trucks that got flogged regularly

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Carb Tuning Question
« on: May 21, 2025, 11:42:57 AM »
I too have used the QFT billet secondary plates successfully, but one thing I had to do was fiddle with the idle fuel feed orifice sizing. On my application, the idle fuel feed orifice diameter was way too big, and made the idle circuit way too rich. I couldn't get it to run decently at anything other than WOT. Looking at the specs for the plates I was replacing (which I got from an old Holley book I have) and comparing them with the specs for the QFT plates, the idle feed sizing was way off.

The QFT plates have a screw in idle fuel feed that's basically a tiny worm screw with an even tinier hole drilled in it. I called QFT asking for either worm screws with different orifice sizes or blank worm screws, they didn't have any, so I sourced some from a RC Car supply company of all places. Then I found the appropriately sized drill bit (from Grainger) to match the orifice sizing in the original plates, and drilled the feeds in the replacement worm screws. Solved my idle and part throttle issues just like that.

My other experience with dual vacuum secondary carbs was that I needed to use the lightest spring possible (white) in both carbs to get the most out of it.

Hope this helps.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Returning to the FE world, need re-education
« on: January 21, 2025, 05:17:33 PM »
Given that Mr. Jay Brown created and maintains this forum, I'd say the general consensus, and might I add decent thing to do, would be to 'send him a check'. It'll be a worthwhile investment into your library. 

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Private Classifieds / Re: headers
« on: February 20, 2024, 05:23:33 PM »
Private message sent.

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Private Classifieds / Re: Need 390 double crank pulley
« on: December 20, 2023, 12:41:57 PM »
PM sent

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Private Classifieds / Re: Mallory Dual Point For FE Not Mine
« on: August 06, 2016, 11:05:41 PM »
That looks old to me with the as cast body, the newer ones are completely machined. Also, the brass condenser is an older tell.


Brett

9
I swapped from a port matched F427 to a port matched RPM to a ported (collar removed from plenum, runners blended into plenum, runners opened up to MR port size at head and blended up into port) Streetmaster on a fairly mild 428 build a few years back. Combo was .040 428 with CJ style dished pistons, heavily ported C6AE-R heads with 2.09/1.66 valves, about 10.1 compression, mild Crower hydraulic cam with 220-228 @ .050", 112 LC, .540ish lift, Holley 780 VS carb, 1 3/4 inch primary tube headers into 2.5 inch duals, C6 auto with 2,200 rpm stall, 3.89 rear gears with a tall tire. Ran this in a 3,900lb 65 F-100 SWB truck.

With both the F427, then the RPM intake, it had gobs of power as soon as the converter stalled out, would blow the tires off pretty easy (too easy). I think the F427 and RPM were on par with each other for that build. Swapping to the Streetmaster, it lost about 1.5-inches of manifold vacuum at idle, and was noticeably softer below the converter stall, but above about 3,000 rpm, it came on hard, and according to my seat cushion, pulled much harder through the mid-range up to the shift point (about 5,500 rpm). I was able to control the tire spin better too, so I felt it was a win on my combo, for what I wanted. Cruise rpm with this combo was about 3,000 rpm at 70 mph, and I noticed no change in driveability or economy in this range. I did have to diddle with the power valves, jets, secondary spring and timing a bit between the two intakes. The Streetmaster worked best for me with a 4 hole spacer on top of an open spacer, where I ran the RPM with just a 4 hole spacer.

For my current 428 build, same truck, with more compression, Edelbrock heads, huge solid lifter cam, 3,000 stall converter and wide ratio gear set in the C6, I kept the Streetmaster and am pleased with it.

For your combo, given that you have more weight over the rear tires than my truck and likely traction will be improved, I'd probably go with the F427, for as others have said, it will look 'right' in that engine bay, and will be in the sweet spot for your driving range.

Brett

10
Private Classifieds / SOLD
« on: March 20, 2016, 01:50:59 PM »
SOLD

Thanks, Brett

11
Back to the top again, some stuff sold, another round of price adjustments on what's left.

Thanks, Brett

12
Member Projects / Re: Why not?
« on: January 09, 2016, 01:18:07 PM »
The 66-early 70 Falcon's absolutely share the unibody with a 66-67 Fairlane. The 66-67 Falcon and Fairlane Rancheros are based on a variation of the 66-67 wagon unibody. If you look, a 66 Ranchero has a 66 Falcon front clip, and a 67 Ranchero has a 67 Fairlane front clip, but they are identical unibody structures.

An FE will bolt into a 66-early70 Falcon using 66-69-Fairlane/Torino hardware. All drivetrain parts interchange, and other than minor variations in the 66-67 style versus 68-early 70 style front suspension and steering which is common to all unibody Fords, those parts all interchange too. 66-71 station wagon and 66-71 Ranchero rear axles interchange, but the 70-71 rear axle is a touch wider. The steering column configuration changed in 68 to be a collapsible column for crash purposes.

My frankenwagon started life as a high optioned (V8, power disc brakes, power steering, air conditioning, power rear window) 69 Falcon Futura wagon, but now looks like a 67 Fairlane wagon after only swapping the front clip and changing the tail lights. It's been a few years since I did it, but I recall that the fenders bolted right on, and all I had to do to mount the Fairlane grill assembly was drill 4 holes in the embossed areas already stamped into the core support.

I say build it, there aren't enough of these bitchin old wagons left. If I hadn't saved mine, it probably would have been a parts car for a more common late 60's Ford.

Brett

13
Bringing this back up one more time with some price adjustments.

Contact info at top of original post.

Thanks, Brett

14
Brought back up and edited January 31, 2016.

Possible delivery to Big 3 Swap Meet in San Diego end of February for serious buyers.

I'm looking to drum up some funds to inject into my stagnating 65 F-100 beautification project, so I'm looking to put some of my parts stash back into circulation. I'm not too interested in trades at this time because my main purpose is to generate funds I can hand off to others in exchange for materials and labor services.

 All parts are located in Ventura, California, about 45 miles north of downtown LA. There is a FedEx depot here in town, as well as UPS, and of course USPS, but there is no longer a Greyhound station, and no Forward Air depot that I am aware of. I haven't really pulled all the parts out yet, and nothing has been packaged or prepped for shipping. I work full time Monday through Friday, and this weekend I'm committed to various activities that will keep me away from home and out of the garage most of the time.

 I'll give dibs to all responders in order of receipt, whether it be by post here, by email, or by phone, as everything should have a time stamp. I should be able to email pictures, once I take everything out to photograph it all, maybe Sunday? Again, I'm sort of busy at the moment, so please don't panic if you don't get an immediate response. If you call and I don't answer, please leave a message, as I get a lot of spam calls and don't bother returning calls without messages. Also, if you're not West Coast, please let me know so I don't end up calling you back when you should be sleeping.

 My email is blue shirt guy at h0tmai1 dot com, and my best phone number is Eight Zero Five 3 Fifty-Eight Fourteen Fifty-Eight


1963 406 Cylinder Heads – Casting No. C2SE-6090-C, matched date codes 2K17
Have been stored for unknown amount of years, will need the full service treatment
Unported, deep thumb print on deck, no issues I can see, I do not believe they’ve ever been rebuilt
Stock sized valves 2.02 intake, 1.66 exhaust with FoMoCo insignia on head of intake valves, exhaust valves stand tall
SOLD

1963 390 ‘Denver’ Cylinder Heads – Casting No. C3AE-6090-C, date codes of 3E14 and 3E16
Removed from a junk yard sourced 428 with 5 flat cam lobes and unknown miles, will need to full service treatment
Unported, deep thumb print on deck, aftermarket valve springs
Stock sized valves 2.02 intake, 1.56 exhaust, some recession of exhaust valves, should take a 1.66 valve without issues
Has some broken exhaust manifold studs that will need to be removed, no cracks or other damage I have seen
SALE PENDING

1962 390 Cylinder Heads – Casting No. C1AE-6090-A, date codes of 2C2 and 2C6
These look they had been rebuilt, but never run, and look like they got wet at some point, should be torn down, cleaned and thoroughly checked before use, might need additional work
Unported, deep thumb print on deck
Stock sized valves 2.02 intake, 1.56 exhaust, exhaust valves are a little bit deep in the head, but all about even
No cracks or issues that I have seen
Asking $200.00 for the pair

1963 390 Cylinder Heads – Casting No. C1AE-6090-A, matched date code of 3F3
These are unported, bare castings that have been cleaned and magnafluxed
No valves, springs or hardware, just the castings, ready for a full rebuild
Asking $125.00 for the pair

1958 352 Machined Combustion Chamber Heads – Casting No. EDC-E, matched date code U 8L (?)
These have been heavily ported on both the intake and exhaust sides, and the port work looks to have been professionally done as it is identical from port to port. Still have a good sized thumb print, but I do not know if they have been decked
Stock sized valves, 2.02 intake, 1.56 exhaust, exhaust valves stand proud. These would probably be awesome with a set of CJ sized valves
No cracks or uses that I am aware of, but these should be given the full treatment
Asking $400.00 for the pair

1970 428 Cobra Jet Intake Manifold – Casting No. C8OE-9425-C, date code 0E20
Unported, no cracks or issues that I am aware of, needs a good cleaning before use
Asking $300.00

428 Cobra Jet 3 groove crank pulley C8AE-6312-D
Original condition, not rust or pitting, needs a good cleaning and some paint, should look new when done.
SOLD

Block Sandwich Plate
Asking $20.00

Lifter Valley Splash Pan
Typical cracks around lifter openings
Asking $15.00

FoMoCo Single-Point Distributor from 1962 390 T-Bird – Stamped No. C2SF-12127-A, date code 1KE
Complete with points, condenser, vacuum can, lead wire, no cap, no rotor. Shaft bushings acceptable
Asking $20.00

Autolite Single Point Distributor from 1967 428 T-Bird – Stamped No. C7AF-12127-J, date code
Complete with points, condenser, vacuum can, cap, no rotor, no lead wire. Shaft bushings worn.
Asking $15.00

PCV Manifold and Fittings from S –Code 390 Intake Manifold
Complete with brass fittings, weathered but not rusted out, will need a resto
Asking $60.00

Autolite Twist In Valve Cover Breathers
3 of them with no nipple or elbow, will accept PCV valve – Asking $20.00 each
2 of them with 90 degree brass nipple – Asking $35.00 each
3 of them with 90 degree plastic elbow – Asking $20.00 each

Early Style (Pre-65?) Dipstick and Tube – No Part Number
This is the style that bolts to the front of the head, fatter dipstick than later (65 up?) version
SALE PENDING

1967 Mustang Fairlane Comet Cougar Kelsey Hayes Disc Brakes – Complete Spindle Out
Complete set up including spindles, splash shields, caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, etc.
Removed from 1967 Mercury Cougar – California car
Car had been sitting for unknown period of time, stored inside since removal
Should be completely disassembled and rebuilt before use
Asking $550.00 for the complete set up

15

Brett

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