I've been using the GM Syncromesh without any problem.   I believe that's what is recommended by Tremec so might as well use what they say.   Don't worry that GM blood cant get back into the motor. 

I switched from a Centerforce II to a Mcleod also but only because I went from a Toploader to a TKO600 which is a different spline.  I had no problems at all with my Centerforce II.  It was recommended that you take out the clutch assist spring if you had one.   This was behind a totally different build fe then yours also.   Pushing maybe 400hp/500tq  shifting at 5200-5400rpm.   


I'd say check some of the basics that have been brought up.   I built some heim joint rods for my toploader and could make that thing shift lightening fast with no effort!  I couldn't do that with the factory linkages but I did have a hurst shifter.   Now I have the TKO600 which is a must for the build I have now but it ain't no toploader when it comes to slamming gears!

I put the TKO600 behind my FE in the 69 Mustang and has been working great.  I shimmed the trans up 1/4 and didn't modify the crossmember but did take a tiny piece off the shifter hole.   I had a toploader that I traded straight up for.   I do miss the toploader as shifting with it was like cutting through butter.   TKO is ratchety feeling and you've got to push and pull a little harder to shift quick, its not as fast and easy as the toploader was.   The best part is I can get on the hwy and drive without the engine screaming and I was able to lower the rear gear to 4:11 from 350's and its still perfect on the hwy.   I do have the TKO with .64 OD though.   Its a huge drop from 4th to 5th.   

Anyone with real time experience using the PRW stainless steel rockers?   The Shebly rockers being stainless steel are also on my list but above what I'd like to pay.   At the same time I don't want to put a price on reliability and safety though.

Ok so it looks like if I get the T&D setup I'll have to get all new pushrods because they use the 5/16th cup style instead of the 3/8 ball style adjusters.   That's a $200+ dollar expense.

The Harland sharp does use the 3/8 ball style adjuster so I could use my current pushrods but just like dove they're not a true roller rocker unless you upgrade to the 7/8" shaft.   If I kept the stock size shafts I would end up with bronze bushing rockers, not rollers like the 7/8" shaft size offer or T&D have.

I still haven't found out what the Harland Sharps (with bronze bushing) are rated for when it comes to spring pressure.

What bullet do I decide to bite?  T&D and get new pushrods or bronze bushing Harland Sharps with my current end stand/spacers and shafts.   The Harland sharps are a 1" wide body like the Doves, correct?  If not then even my spacers are no good.

Either way I'll be eating Kraft Dinner but for how long all depends on what I get.      I want to know I can start the Mach up and go for a drive without wondering if a rocker is going to break.  Poor thing just sits there broken most of the time.

I fished the comp roller lifter out from under the intake to check them out and don't see any obvious signs of damage but cant get over the fact I can feel a little something on the one roller but also noticed those needle bearings are not caged and free to roll up on each other and maybe thats all i'm feeling.   Either way i'm on the paranoid side and will replace the damn thing.   Putting it back in with the intake off will be more fun i'm sure!   I almost feel like pulling the intake to check them all but want to replace the PI intake for an RPM at a later date so not ready to take a perfectly sealed intake off unless someone wants to trade!   

I actually didn't know the standard Dove rockers were only rated for 350+lbs untill recently.   Time to bite the bullet and get those T&D's like I was going to originally when the first one broke.    Hopefully I can get a few dollars for the set of Doves to offset the damage to my pocket.

I'd say if you've got mechanical secondaries you need to know when you can hit the gas and when you shouldn't.  4th or 5th seeing as you have a tko wouldn't go over very well if you hit the gas to hard at low speeds.  You've got to down shift or flood it out.  I like my mechanical secondaries because I know exactly when they're on or off.

Well, just wanted to update everyone on this build,  just to blow some steam and make people aware of deals.   Got the motor, freighted on a pallet real nice and sturdy.  Ripped the plastic off with the freight guy still pulling the pump truck out of the pallet and we both admired this nice engine that would be replacing my more mild 428.

Ok little things started to spark me a like the missing waterpump gasket,  the intake with a crack in the bottom should be ok because water isn't going threw it but still wasn't disclosed.  The heads that were port matched still full of aluminum dust that wasn't cleaned out before torquing them down!  The missing shims on one set of rocker arms that were suppose to be a bolt on.  I see a difference in blue color on a couple rockers and realize a couple had been replaced, OK.    So I'm setting them up FINALLY after sourcing some shims out which I couldn't find any where around here until now and realize that 2 of the rockers have cracks in them at the tips near the roller!   

Well, now the cars off the road even longer!   Wonder if there are any problems in the bottem end!  If I had cash I'd be like oh well upgrade to the T&D street set but I don't just like a lot of us in the hobby!   

If any Canadians want to know what something like this could cost total to your house, it was $5624 !!!   That right there was a big enough surprise!