Not sure what you mean by "Media Blast", but if you are referring to something like "Wheelabrading" or shot blasting, my concern would be trying to get ALL of the steel beads out on the block afterwards. I have had cylinder heads cleaned that way, and they look like brand new, but those tiny steel beads can be pretty much impossible to get them all out. Same with sandblasting and glass bead blasting, my machinist buddy has had issues with intake manifolds and cylinder heads that had been glass beaded, and then ended up with errant fragments showing up and seizing up valve guides. I have never "media blasted" a block, and the current 428 had a lot of rust and scale in the water jackets, which took a lot of effort to remove, but patience, some long skinny screw drivers, wire rod (like gas welding rods), compressed air, and some long wire brushes, along with plenty of hot soapy water and time, got the block pretty clean and scale free. I probably spend 3 or 4 hours just of the rust removal, the scale in the bottom of of the water jackets was well over 1/2" deep of loose debris. When I was done, I could fill the jackets with fresh water, shake the block, and when I dumped the water, there was no more flakes coming out. I wonder if a place that dips car bodies in a huge tank to remove rust, like Redi Strip would remove such rust, but there is no such facility anywhere near my location.

I have always just used the factory crank sleeve/spacer to center the timing cover to the block, and I have never had to pull down the timing cover against the seal to make it flush with the pan rails of the block, just rotate the cover a bit to ensure both sides match up. I suppose if a block had been align bored a bunch, that could be an issue, but I have never had that situation.

A while back, I bought an Innovate AF ratio gauge for my 59, but have yet to install it. Just curious where you guys install the bung fitting. I have FPA semi shorty headers on the 428 in my 59, so guessing that it will have to go in one of the down pipes after the headers, but how far back? I guess whatever side offers the most clearance?

That green 32 Ford Roadster almost had me fooled for a second, seems that dressing up a SB Chevy to kinda look like a Ford engine, in this case, a Y Block, is alive and well 1/2 way around the world. Especially with the Ford truck looking Rams Horn exhaust manifolds. Interesting how the yellow Charger has a good sized section of body between the rear of the trunk lid and the back of the car. Imagine trying to load/unload heavy items in the trunk could be challenging, especially if one was fairly short, or not wanting to scratch up the paint. Being in Australia, I though the the 351 Cleveland would have been better represented, didn`t they make the 351C in Australia much longer than North America?  I always thought that the 351C was a great looking engine, and had great aftermarket support in Australia.  Also, seems like the old style Centerline "Auto Drag" wheels are pretty popular down under. I have had Centerline Auto Drags on my Fairmont for almost 40 years now, and am on a Centerline facebook group, and there are lots of Aussies there. Thanks for the photos.

Years ago, when I ran a 8.8 rearend with a factory traction Lok unit, we chose to install good used clutch packs, which allowed an extra friction disc per side, which provided a tighter package, but with more of a tendency for dragging/chattering around corners, but with greater holding capability. So good for performance duty, but not so much for normal street driving. I don`t recall what the package thickness was, but as long as it will physically fit together, in the carrier, more clutch discs provide more surface area, so better holding power.

OK thanks. I was kinda thinking that they were, considering he had a 66 7 Litre Galaxie, and all the other parts were for 66s.

I understand that there was a couple of different versions of some of the clutch linkage used on 65/66 Galaxies, with FE engines. I recently got what appears to be an almost complete set of clutch linkage from , I believe a 66 7 Litre Galaxie, but some of it is quite different from the Mustang and Fairlane stuff that I am more familiar with. I seem to recall somebody on one of the FE Forums had previously posted some photos showing the differences, just wondering if that was somebody here? The Z bar lower lever for the clutch fork has a "hook" style notch, rather than a pin like most other Fords that I am more familiar with, but the rod for it is threaded for adjustment, with a pointy end. However the clutch fork has a beveled hole, that is larger than the end of the rod. So I am wondering if either the clutch fork is the wrong application, or if there should be something to go between the fork hole and the rod. I also have a Toploader tailshaft, supposedly from a 7 Litre Galaxie, which has a different shifter mounting pattern than a Mustang or Fairlane, with the speedo hole on the drivers side, rather than the passenger side.  It also came with a 4 speed console plate, and a shifter body and 2 rods, plus a chrome shifter lever. Wonder if the shifter handle was the same for a console and no console application, the shifter body seems to be mounted fairly high, at least compared to 67-70 Mustangs or 66-69 Fairlanes. And the shifter lever goes straight up a ways before curving. And it seems that there is no over center spring on the clutch pedal, but looks like there is one that mounts on the frame side Z bar pivot and the Z bar itself. And the bellhousing has a pivot ball for the Z bar, rather than a bracket, as used on most other FEs that I have played with . Just trying to find if I have a mish match of pieces, or if  it is a mostly complete assembly for a Galaxie. I would post some photos, but I have never been able to figure out how to post photos on this site from my cell phone. Thanks.