In my '66 Fairlane I used this setup from 2006-2020 with my 390. I used the same set up when I installed a 427 (484 cu/in) stroker.

I used a Howe Racing aluminum radiator by Crites restoration http://www.critesrestoration.com/fairlane.htm (I understand Howe still makes the radiator). This radiator fits the 66-69 Fairlane/Torino/Cyclone.
I used Spal dual fans http://www.spalusa.com/ part number 30102130 and their relay/thermostat controls at  http://www.spalusa.com Quantity of 2, 1 for each fan motor. I had to upgrade to a 130 Amp one wire alternator to accomodate the fan amp draw. I used some old NOS hoses I had lying around to hook up the radiator and water connections.
Upper Hose: D1HZ-8260-A the Motorcraft equivalent is KM-391. Modification: 1" trimmed off both sides.
Lower Hose: C4SZ-8286-A the Motorcraft equivalent is KM-128. Modification:  3/4" trimmed off rad. side.
I have an Edelbrock aluminum water pump. I use the 185 thermostat sending unit.

Here are a couple of picture links.
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/rad01.jpg
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/rad02.jpg

Keep in mind one thing. Chances of any or all of you pushrods to position centered in the pushrod bore of the intake are slim to none. As the valve train goes through it's motions, the middle of the push rod may get close to rubbing or will rub the bore. All just FYI.

Took it to the local Starter/Alternator shop and had it tested. It stuck at first but wroked well after a few tries. They opened it up and said looks good, run it.

The starter only gets battery voltage so there is not enough voltage to jump any significant gap.  At 1/32"  I'd be concerned about vibration, but if it's a normal Ford setup vibration while driving won't affect anything because there is no voltage going to the starter.  If it's a newer version with the solenoid on the starter though, that could be an issue.  I think 1/8" of clearance is more than enough in any case.

Thank you Jay. It is an older OEM style starter, solenoid on the fender well.

I have a set of Headman shortie headers in ‘78 F150 with a 390. The new starter I have, has the positive screw/tab at the end of the starter. How much clearance should I have ftom header tube to the tab? I have about 1/32” but can take another 1/16” off and bend it away a little for more room. I might be able to wrangle 1/8” total. Any issue? I have various material for heat shielding. I am just concerned electrically for this question. Thanks!

I used some off brand grade 8 3/8-16 bolts and spared any side bending of my ARP bolts. I plan to reseal the washers and retorque when I removed the tilt/lift device. I have a low end Edelbrock Performer 390 on this engine.

Picture in a few hours.

I have a Super Shifter with push down reverse. It is used and a swap meet purchase. The reverse push down spring is missing. I am trying to figure out what this spring looks like and find an exploded view or someone familiar with all of the parts. I do not know if other parts are missing? On the image (link) below it shows a rebuild kit for a Super Shifter. Is the spring shown the one I need? If so I can easily buy the kit. thank you in advance for any input.

 
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/hur1.JPEG
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/hur2.jpg
http://www.fairlanet.com/images/hur3.jpg