I have the Spal fans and they do a great job. I also had a champion radiator and it didn't cut it on 464 cu.in. I bought a Summit 3 pass rad and it stays at 180.

Can someone please tell me intake and exhaust valve sizes for Barrys CNC ported Edelbrock stage x heads. I sending my carb to Pro Systems to be rebuilt. I cant seem to find it on Barrys website. Thanks  Second question is 850 big enough or should I go 950?         Harry

The old tubes are scrap metal now. Where the porting broke through is more like a thick line on both sides of the port. While i was driving some of the tubes out there was traces of oil that ran into the port. Aluminum tubes are ordered.

    Hi Joe I had the manifold off last year and replaced the intake gaskets which were pintoleaks with Barrys black gaskets that he has made. That did solve some oil consumption on DeCell. This year I took off the carb, put a plate on with a Shrader fitting. Removed the rockers and pressurized to 15 20 psi. Applied leak tech to the tube and saw at least 2 leaking on the valve cover side of the manifold. One has a bubble every few seconds the other has constant bubbles in a few places. I have no idea what's happening on the underside yet. No leak down motor is fairly fresh less than 7k miles. There could be other issues but this is the first i found.

I found splash zone and a bunch of JB weld. Is this the right JB weld? looks like splash zone is 80 bucks for a quart. JB weld 8.99  I am not worried about the price at this point just getting the right stuff.

I have a Victor intake that was ported to match Survival cnc ported heads. While he was porting them, he broke into the pushrod tubes. He then I assume reamed the pushrod tubes and inserted steel tubes with epoxy.  I have been having oil consumption issues the past few years, initially it was good. Last yr i thought it was a gasket issue. This year I blanked off the carb with a plate and a Shrader fitting. I removed all the rocker arms. I then pressurized to 15psi, and it seems I'm getting leaks (bubbles) on two of the tubes. I know this is only half of the possibilities because I can't check the valley side with it on the engine. End result it has to come off and be repaired or replaced. Is epoxy a reasonable repair?  I have a 35yrs background in UHV vacuum and Particle Accelerators bla bla. I'm not sure how epoxy holds up an engine. My first feeling is remove it clean up the areas pull a vacuum on it and let it suck in the appropriate epoxy. Vacuum in UHV world gets baked to 200c we are only talking 200f here. Advice from the experts please. My other option is to replace the manifold. To toss this manifold would be tossing a lot of $. I have videos of the leaks but its just bubbles.

Hi guys I finally had a chance to pull a rear tire and look at the brakes. Both shoes appear to be the same size, it was suggested to make sure the small shoe is in front. I had to back off the adjustment to get the drum off there was very little ridge. In my opinion they were adjusted properly. Cable is tight there is little pedal travel possibly not enough. Drums do look glazed. I ordered new drums and shoes lets take it from there. I cant remember ever changing the drums and I have had the car for 50 yrs. Stay tuned lol.

I have a 69 mustang with stock rear drums which are adjusted correctly, and the cable is tight. My driveway is downhill but not ridiculously steep. When I back out of the garage and leave it in neutral to adjust the carb or something it creeps backwards no matter how hard I step on the ebrake pedal. I use a brick to stop the creeping not very high tech. I step so hard on the ebrake that I have to step on the ebrake pedal to help pull the release handle. Am i missing something?   

Harry